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Hatsumode in Fukuoka 2017-2018

So it’s New Year’s Eve and your friends have gone abroad to visit family or on exotic getaways, and you’re in Fukuoka wondering how to make the most of the last night of the year? If you’re willing to throw away ideas of drinking and dancing the night away at a countdown party – or are happy stay up the whole night – you’ll see New Year’s Eve as a great opportunity to experience Japanese traditional culture first hand.

In many ways Oshogatsu, or the Japanese New Year, is more similar to a western Christmas – cards are sent to friends and family (nengajo), families come together, traditional meals are eaten (osechi-ryōri) and there’s a feeling of togetherness and well wishing for the new year.

One of the most important parts of Japanese New Year is hatsumode – the first trip to a shrine or temple. Some shrines hold big ceremonies that are free to the public and are a great place to hang out with the locals for the New Year.

From the big and famous to the small and humble, there is a wide variety of shrines in Fukuoka. In western Japan, it’s custom to visit three shrines within the first three days of the year. Locals usually visit one in their neighborhood, but some like to visit the famous ones, and Fukuoka Now has picked thirteen shrines in Fukuoka City and beyond! Why not make a pilgrimage of your own!


Source: photoAC

Oharai-shiki (Purification Festival): This purification ritual is held so that people can cleanse their lives of mistakes or misdeeds from the previous year. Worshippers also offer prayers to ensure a healthy, fruitful year ahead.

Joyasai (New Year’s Eve Festival): A religious ritual conducted on New Year’s Eve that is held to express gratitude for safety during the previous year safety and peace in the year ahead.

Saitansai (New Year’s Day Festival): During this ritual, worshippers pray for the prosperity of the country, the imperial family, and for a good harvest.


Gokoku Jinja Shrine / 護国神社
Gokoku Shrine is said to have been built in the first year of the Meiji Period. With 3,000 trees surrounding it, the shrine is an oasis of calm, even though it’s located in the middle of the city. The torii, or gate, is made of cypress, stands 13m high and is the symbol of this shrine.

New Year’s celebrations at Gokoku Jinja Shrine can see as many as 20,000 worshippers paying their respects. The approach to the shrine will be lined by approximately 20 stalls, selling various items and snacks. You are sure to enjoy the warm, festive atmosphere around the grounds. The fuku-mikuji (paper fortune) raffle always proves popular and gives visitors the chance to win some exciting prizes!

New Year’s Events:
• 12/31 (Sun.): Oharai-shiki 14:00, Joyasai 15:00
• 1/1 (Mon., hol.): Saitan-sai
• 1/2 (Tue.): Futsukasai (second day of the year event)
• 1/3 (Wed.): Genshisai (New Year event)
• 1/7 (Sun.): Emperor Showa Mushashino Burial Tomb worship 9:00, Nanakusa Festival 10:00 (*after the festival, you can sample nanakusa-gayu, a rice porridge containing seven seasonal vegetables. Just ¥100 per bowl, only 300 bowls available.)

New Year opening hours: 24/7
Address: 1-1-1 Ropponmatsu, Chuo-ku
Access: 5 min. walk from Ohori Park, in front of Gokoku Jinja-mae Nishitetsu Bus stop.
Tel: 092-741-2555
Web: http://fukuoka-gokoku.jp


Kego Jinja Shrine / 警固神社
This shrine was moved to its present location next to Kego Park in 1608. Though it stands amongst the office buildings and department stores of Tenjin, it retains a calm atmosphere, making it popular with elderly visitors who come here to rest during the day. The festival held here in autumn is one of the Tenjin’s most popular events of the year.

The gates of the shrine open at midnight on New Year’s Eve. An offering of special New Year’s sake is then made to the gods. The shrine’s central location is right in the heart of Tenjin, which means that a lot of worshippers stop by to pay their respects after they have finished the countdown at a New Year’s Eve parties in the city center. Locals also gather at the shrine on Jan. 8 and hold a festival known as the Dondo-yaki Matsuri to mark the Coming-of-Age Day. During the celebrations, New Year’s decorations from inside the shrine are burnt in order to pray for health and safety in the year ahead. The festival starts from 10:00 and zenzai (sweet soup made from azuki beans) will be served free of charge to help warm up visitors.

New Year Events:
• 1/1 (Mon., hol.): Saitansai 00:00~
• 1/3 (Wed.): Genshisai (New Year event)
• 1/8 (Mon.): Dondo-yaki Matsuri 10:00~

New Year opening hours: 24/7
Address: 2-2-20 Tenjin, Chuo-ku
Access: 3 min. walk from Tenjin Sta. (Fukuoka City Subway), 1 min. walk from Tenjin Kego Jinja/Mitsukoshi-mae bus stop, 1 min. walk from Nishitetsu Fukuoka (Tenjin) Sta.
Tel: 092-771-8551
http://www.kegojinja.or.jp/index.html


Kushida Jinja Shrine / 櫛田神社
This is probably the best-known shrine in Hakata and it is beloved by locals – they affectionately call it “Kushida-san”! It was first constructed in 757. The Hakata Gion Yamakasa festival, one of Hakata’s biggest festivals, begins here. A float from the Yamakasa festival is on display all year.

Enter the fuku-mikuji raffle for just ¥500 to be in with a chance of winning awesome prizes, including tickets to a performance at the Hakata-za theater and coupons for a meal at a famous hotel. The raffle will be open until Jan. 7.

New Year Events
• 12/31 (Sun.): Oharai-shiki 16:00, Joyasai 23:00
• 1/1 (Mon., hol.): Saitansai
• 1/3 (Wed.): Genshisai (New Year event)

New Year opening hours: 24/7
Address: 1-41 Kamikawabata-machi, Hakata-ku
Access: 5 min. walk from Gion or Nakasu-Kawabata Subway Stations
Tel: 092-291-2951


Miyajidake Jinja Shrine / 宮地嶽神社
Constructed around 1,700 years ago in Fukutsu, this shrine is regarded as the greatest of Japan’s “Miyajidake” shrines. Dedicated to Empress Jingu, visitors to the shrine pray for all kinds of good luck. This shrine takes great pride in three items: its shimenawa (holy ornament made of rope), its odaiko (Japanese drum), and its osuzu (bell), all of which are regarded as the largest of their kind in Japan.

Legend says that Miyajidake’s golden roof was created due to the discovery of golden artefacts near the shrine during construction. A huge drum is struck at midnight on Dec. 31. The sound that resonates around the grounds marks the start of the New Year.

New Year Events:
• 12/31 (Sun.): Oharai-shiki, Chinka-sai (Fire Prevention Festival), Joya-sai 17:00
• 1/1 (Mon., hol.): Saitansai 00:00

Hours: 24/7 (shops close at 19:00)
Address: 7-1, Miyajimotomachi, Fukutsu
Access: 5 min. by taxi (25 min. walk) from JR Fukuma Sta.
Tel: 0940-52-0016
Web: http://www.miyajidake.or.jp


Hakozakigu Shrine / 筥崎宮
Hakozaki Shrine is known as one of the main shrines in Japan dedicated to the deity of archery and war, Hachiman. It is said to have been founded in 923, during the Heian period. The guardian deity is the spirit of the Emperor Ojin, who was born in what is now Umi-machi, Fukuoka Prefecture. The shrine’s biggest annual event is Hojoya – held every September to herald the start of autumn in Hakata.

On New Year’s Day the shrine is packed full of stalls and worshippers, creating a bustling atmosphere around the grounds. Tickets for the hugely popular hato-mikuji raffle cost just ¥300 and will be available until Jan. 14. Prizes include lucky charms, rice, vouchers for travel, and gift certificate​s. Inside the shrine is a traditional Japanese garden with lovely flowers that bloom year-round.

New Year Events
• 12/31 (Sun.) Oharai-shiki 15:00, Namako mochitsuki (mochi-pounding) 19:00
• 1/1 (Mon., hol.): Sangensai (New Year’s festival) 7:00
• 1/3 (Wed.): Tama Seseri

Regular Hours: 24/7
Address: 1-22-1, Hakozaki, Higashi-ku
Access: 3 min. walk from Chikatetsu Hakozakigumae Sta. (Exit 1), 8 min. walk from JR Hakozaki Sta., 3 min. walk from Hakozaki Nishitetsu bus stop, 2 min. walk from JR Hakozaki 1-chome bus stop
Tel: 092-641-7431
Web: http://www.hakozakigu.or.jp/index.php


Torikai Hachimangu Shrine / 鳥飼八幡宮
Torikai Hachimangu Shrine / 鳥飼八幡宮
This shrine is worshipped as the tutelary god shrine in west Fukuoka, with three enshrined deities: Ojin Tenno (Emperor Ojin), Jingu Kougo (Empress Jingu) and Tamayori Hime (Princess Tamayori), the god of matchmaking. People come to pray to the shrine’s “Musubi-no-kami” – God of connections, fortune, ties and matrimony – for good relations and luck in marriage, work, family, study, health and longevity.

The fuku-mikuji available on New Year’s Day 2018 at Torikai Hachimangu Shrine will cost ¥500 and come with lucky charms inspired by the 2018 zodiac animal, which will be the dog.

New Year’s Events:
• 1/1 (Mon., hol.): Saitansai 00:00~

New Year opening hours: 24/7
Address: 2-1-17 Imagawa, Chuo-ku
Access: 1 min. walk from Jigyo Nishitetsu bus stop, 8 min. walk from Tojinmachi Sta.
Tel: 092-741-7823
http://hachimansama.jp


Sakurai Jinja Shrine / 櫻井神社
Built in 1632 in Itoshima City, Sakurai Shrine is listed as an Important Cultural Property of Fukuoka. The main shrine and grounds are located inland, and surrounded by forest. The symbolic torii gates in the ocean at Futamigaura are actually part of Sakurai Shrine, and every April ~ May the shrine holds an event in which 60 ujiko (shrine members) walk to the meotoiwa (couple rock) near the torii to change the 1-ton shimenawa (holy ornament made of rope).

Usually closed to the public, Iwoto Shrine opens its doors for the first three days of January. Visitors can pick-up an o-mikuji (fortune) for just ¥20, or try their luck in Rilakkuma-mikuji lottery for ¥300. Participants in the tonbotama (glass bead) mikuji, which also costs ¥300, will be entered into a special prize draw.

New Year Events:
• 12/31 (Sun.): Oharai-shiki, Joyasai 22:00~
• 1/1 (Mon., hol.): Himukai Jinja Festival and Iwoto Shrine opening 00:00~

Regular Hours: 24/7
Address: 4227 Shima-Sakurai, Itoshima, Fukuoka
Access: by car
Tel: 092-327-0317
Web: http://sakuraijinja.com


Kōra Taisha / 高良大社
Founded in the fifth century, Kōra Taisha is a Shinto shrine in Kurume, Fukuoka Prefecture. Measuring in at 17m wide, 13m high and 32m long, the grand building of the main shrine is one of Kyushu’s largest buildings. Its kokerabuki roof is made of a layer of thin cyprus shingles, revealing the origins of the building. The shrine was one of the most important shrines in Chikugo Province. Its torii, built in 1654, and honden (main hall), haiden (hall of worship), and heiden (offertory hall), built in 1661, have been designated Important Cultural Properties.


Source: Takeshi.koike

Visitors can join in with the Oharai-shiki purification rites on New Year’s Eve for ¥1,000. The ceremony is said to cleanse you of any sins committed during the last year. Large drums are played at midnight as part of the Shinka-sai (Fire Prevention Festival) celebrations. The first service of the New Year then gives worshippers the chance to offer prayers for the upcoming year. Locals serve burizouni (yellowtail soup), which is one of the shrine’s specialties to visitors Jan. 3.

New Year Events:
• 12/31 (Sun.): Oharai-shiki 15:00
• 1/1 (Mon., hol.): Shinkasai (sacred flame festival) 00:00
• 1/3 (Wed.): burizouni (yellowtail soup) reception 10:00

New Year opening hours: 9:00~16:30
Address: 1 Miimachi, Kurume, Fukuoka
Access: 15 min. from Kurume Daigaku-mae (Kyudai Main Line)
Tel: 0942-43-4893
http://www.kourataisya.or.jp


Atago Jinja Shrine / 愛宕神社
Perched on the hill west of the Muromigawa River, Atago Shrine is one of Japan’s main shrines dedicated to the god of Atago, and Fukuoka City’s oldest shrine – it dates back to 72 A.D. The view from the top of the shrine is superb, with views of Momochi area, Fukuoka Tower and the highway to one side and Noko island to the other.

Atago Jinja Shrine welcomes in the region of 70,000 visitors every year during the first week of the New Year (Jan. 1 ~ Jan. 8). A festival is held from 3am on New Year’s Day during which worshippers prayers for world peace. At ¥1,500 the Atago-kuji raffle costs a little more, but there are no blank tickets in the draw, which means that everyone gets a prize. The lucky charms available, include Daruma (bodhidharma) dolls and models of Maneki-neko (lucky cats).

New Year Events:
• 12/31 (Sun.): Oharai-shiki 15:00, Joyasai 23:00
• 1/1 (Mon.): Gantansai (New Year’s festival) 3:00

Regular Hours: 24/7
Address: 2-7-1, Atago, Nishi-ku
Access: 10 min. walk from Muromi Subway Sta., or get off the bus at ‘Atago-shita’, which drops you off at the bottom of Atago hill.
Tel: 092-881-0103
http://atagojinjya.com


Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine / 太宰府天満宮
Dazaifu Tenmangu is a shrine built over the grave of Michizane Sugawara, venerated by the Japanese throughout the country as the Tenman-Tenjin (the deified spirit of Michizane), or the God of literature and calligraphy. Many traditional Japanese crafts, sweets and chopstick shops line the approach to the shrine. Over 8,000,000 international and domestic tourists flock to Dazaifu each year, making it one of Kyushu’s most important shrines.

Across the first three days of the New Year Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine draws in some of the biggest crowds anywhere in Western Japan. A special event called the anohajimesai is held inside the temple grounds on Jan. 4 to ensure that maintenance work on the shrine is carried out safely in in the coming year. A ritual is carried during the festival that sees a three-meter piece of timber struck with an axe. Koun-mikuji (good luck fortune) raffle tickets cost ¥500 and will be on sale until Jan. 7, giving visitors the chance to win a range of prizes, such as televisions and discounts on travel.

New Year’s Events:
• 12/31 (Sun.): Oharai-shiki 16:00, Joyasai 22:30
• 1/1 (Mon., hol.): Saitansai 7:00
• 1/3 (Wed.): Genshisai 9:00
• 1/4 (Thu.): Onohajime Festival 9:30

Regular Hours: 24/7
Address: 4-7-1 Saifu, Dazaifu, Fukuoka
Access: 5 min. walk from Nishitetsu Dazaifu Sta.
Tel: 092-922-8225
Web: http://www.dazaifutenmangu.or.jp
http://www.dazaifutenmangu.or.jp


Tochoji Temple / 東長寺
According to the temple’s history, this ancient temple of the Shingon sect of Buddhism was founded in 806 by Kobo Daishi on his return from Tang Dynasty China. It became the family temple of the Kuroda family as its cemetery began to hold their graves. It holds the “Fukuoka Daibutsu (Great Buddha)”, the largest wooden seated Buddha statue in Japan, completed in 1992 – measuring 10.8 m tall and weighing 30 tons. A national treasure Senjukannonbosatsu (thousand armed statue) and Rokkakudou, a hut-contained Buddhist sanctum, are also on the grounds of Tochoji. On the 28th of each month, the doors of the hexagonal building are opened and the six Buddhist statues inside can be viewed. You can see a range of activities here during the Setsubun festival in February every year, when large numbers of locals gather here.

New Year Events:
• 12/31 (Sun.): Joyasai 23:30
• 1/1 (Mon.): New Year Prayer festival 12:00, 14:00
• 1/2 (Tue.), 1/3 (Wed.): New Year Prayer festival 12:00

New Year opening hours: 5:30~17:00
Address: 2-4, Gokusho-machi, Hakata-ku
Access: 1 min. walk from Gion Subway Sta.
Tel: 092-291-4459


New Year’s Lucky Charms!
Shinto practice over the millennia has formed countless auspicious customs and items. Here are a few:

Omikuji
The writings on these individual fortunes are said to be the words of the gods! If the omikuji says you’ll have bad luck, tie it to a pine tree on the shrine grounds. This custom originates from a pun on the words “pine” (松 matsu) and “wait” (待つ matsu), with the idea being that by tying the bad fortune to a pine tree, the bad luck will remain on the tree and not follow you home.

hatsumode_omikuji

Hamaya
These arrows are believed to ward off demons and protect households in the New Year. The following year, hamaya are returned to the shrine they were purchased from and burned in a purificatory bonfire.

hatsumode_hamaya

Ema
Wishes for the New Year are written onto these wooden plaques, which are then placed at the shrine. The word ema consists of the characters “picture” (絵) and “horse” (馬); horses were a symbolic vehicle of gods and were believed to carry the worshipper’s wishes and ensure that they were heard by the gods .

hatsumode_ema

Omamori
These charms are for good luck, health, road safety and so on. Different shrines have omamori for different purposes, depending on the deities enshrined there.

hatsumode_omamori


OSHOGATSU TIP! The Right Way to Pray at a Shrine
It looks easy, but there is proper protocol. Practice these steps and pray like a pro!

1. お清め Okiyome (Preparation)
Bow and then walk through the shrine’s torii. Stick to the left as the gods walk down the center. Head to the temizuya (stone basin) and pick up a ladle (hishaku) in your right hand and fill it with water. Pour a little over your left hand, then swap hands wash your right. Pour water into the palm of your left hand and bring it to your mouth to rinse. Finally, wash your left hand and tip the remaining water down the ladle’s handle to clean it. Return the ladle face down and head to the shrine.

2. 二拝 Nihai (Two bows)
Toss a coin into the saisen bako (wooden box) to resolve yourself of sins, ring the bell if there is one and bow deeply twice.

3. 二拍手 Nihakushu (Two claps)
Clap your hands together twice, your right hand slightly lower so the fingers reach the top joints of your left hand. Eyes shut and head bowed, express a silent prayer of thanks to the gods for last year’s fortunes.

4. 一拝 Ippai (One bow)
Bow respectfully once more. After leaving through the torii, turn back to the shrine and bow one final time.

Originally published in Dec. 2016.
Copyright Fukuoka Now – including all text, photos and illustrations. Permission required to re-use in any form. Meanwhile, feel free to link to to this page.

NOTE: The information presented here was gathered and summarized by the Fukuoka Now staff. While we have done our best to check for accuracy, there might be errors and details may have changed. If you notice any errors or changes, please contact us. This post was updated in Dec. 2017.

Category
Art & Culture
Guides
Fukuoka Prefecture
Published: Dec 21, 2017 / Last Updated: Jan 4, 2018

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