{"id":92478,"date":"2016-11-10T15:21:06","date_gmt":"2016-11-10T06:21:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.fukuoka-now.com\/?p=92478&lang=en"},"modified":"2017-06-26T18:41:03","modified_gmt":"2017-06-26T09:41:03","slug":"tsushima-island-guide","status":"publish","type":"guide","link":"https:\/\/www.fukuoka-now.com\/en\/guides\/tsushima-island-guide\/","title":{"rendered":"Tsushima Island Guide: a Hop, Skip and a Jump from Fukuoka"},"content":{"rendered":"

Tsushima: just a hop, skip and a jump from Fukuoka <\/strong><\/p>\n

\"tsushima-5\"<\/p>\n

Take a plane 30 minutes northwest of Fukuoka and you\u2019ll find yourself over Tsushima (\u5bfe\u99ac). Densely forested, and like much of Japan, extremely mountainous, the island has a total population of just 32,000. Yet Tsushima is a natural and cultural treasure trove and visitors may well find themselves lost to the island\u2019s charms. One rainy weekend in October, Oscar Boyd from Fukuoka Now took the chance to visit Tsushima and explore the island a little further.<\/p>\n

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A little about Tsushima (\u5bfe\u99ac)<\/strong>
\nTsushima sits between Kyushu and South Korea in the Genkai Sea. Despite its offshore location, it is officially part of Nagasaki Prefecture. Tsushima\u2019s southern tip is 73km from Fukuoka, while from its Northern coastline you can see the city of Busan, just 49.5km away. Though it is generally referred to as Tsushima, the island is actually comprised of two main islands and 100 smaller islands. End to end, Tsushima is just over 80km in length.<\/p>\n

Its proximity to both Japan and Korea means that the island has an extraordinarily rich history, serving as the first point of call for Korea-Japan trade and ambassadorial relations. Proximity has also made it a site of frequent wars and attempted territorial grabs. The island was considered so important to Japanese strategy that the formerly joined mainland was split into the two current islands in the 17th century by an artificial canal. A second canal was added in the early 1900s to allow for larger ships to cross quickly from the east to the west of the island. To this day, the legacy as a first-stop between Japan and Korea means that all inhabitants are taught Korean until the end of high school.<\/p>\n

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The Airport<\/strong>
\n\"tsushima-3\"<\/p>\n

Tsushima is currently served by Tsushima Yamaneko Airport, with daily flights to Fukuoka and Nagasaki. The airport has an hourly shuttle bus which terminates at the Information Center in Izuhara, the island\u2019s main city. The bus takes 30 minutes and costs \u00a5700. Flights into and out of the airport aren\u2019t that frequent so the bus schedule is well timed with arrivals and departures. The airport also has a taxi rank from which you can take a 20-minute taxi to the city for around \u00a53,000.<\/p>\n

\u2022 Tsushima Yamaneko Airport: 400, Kechi, Mitsushimacho, Tsushima, Nagasaki <\/a><\/p>\n

Getting Around<\/strong>
\nIf you\u2019re planning on exploring further afield than Izuhara and its surroundings, we recommend you hire a car from one of the car-hire providers at the airport. Yoshinaga, Toyota, Budget and Orix all have rent-a-car services located in the (tiny) arrivals lounge of the airport. Renting a car requires you to have an appropriate driver’s license or international driver\u2019s license and may require some basic Japanese language ability. Car rental starts at around \u00a55,000\/day.<\/p>\n

If you want to stick to buses you can buy a one-day bus pass<\/a> that allows unlimited travel for \u00a51,000\/adult or \u00a5500\/child.<\/p>\n

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Izuhara<\/strong>
\nAssuming you\u2019ve made it out of the airport, one of the first ports of call should be Izuhara, Tsushima\u2019s largest town. It has plenty to see and some great hotels and restaurants:<\/p>\n

1. Information Center<\/strong>
\n\"tsushima-1\"<\/p>\n

Assuming you\u2019ve taken the bus, it\u2019ll end up terminating outside the Izuhara Information Centre, a.k.a Fureai Dokoro<\/em>. Here you can find brochures and maps of the island, see any upcoming events and, if you speak Japanese, book a variety of tours around the island. The information center has plenty of information in English, as well as a large room detailing the history and nature of the island. Though the center doesn\u2019t currently have fluent English-speaking staff, it is likely that that will change in the near future as the island tries to attract more English-speaking tourists.<\/p>\n

\u2022 Information Centre: 672-1 Imayashiki, Izuharamachi, Tsushima<\/a><\/p>\n

2. Kaneishi Castle Grounds<\/strong>
\n\"tsushima-33\"<\/p>\n

A 3-minute walk from the Information Center is the entrance to Kaneishi Castle, built to house the Soh Clan, Tsushima\u2019s feudal lords. The main castle building has since been destroyed, but the entrance gate is beautiful, framed by the mountains behind it. Walk through the gate and head up the path to find the Kaneishi Castle Gardens (built in the 1690s) and the Soh Clan Cemetery.<\/p>\n

\u2022 Kaneishi Castle: 670-2, Imayashiki, Izuharamachi, Tsushima<\/a>; Free entry<\/p>\n

3. The Soh Clan Cemetery & Ban-Sho-In<\/strong>
\n\"tsushima-32\"
\nA magnificent set of stairs ascends into the forest above<\/em><\/p>\n

The Soh Clan started their rule over Tsushima in the 16th century and, when the first feudal lord, Soh Yoshitoshi, died in 1615, the Soh cemetery was established in his honor. The cemetery is nestled in the hills behind Izuhara, and to get to the cemetery you must ascend a stair between giant cedar trees. The graveyard is extraordinarily atmospheric, the graves telling the story of the island\u2019s rulers and prosperity, with each generation\u2019s grave built to be larger than their predecessors. Many of the graves are crumbling at the edges, but the stone has survived the last 400 years remarkably well.<\/p>\n

The graveyard also contains Ban-Sho-In, one of Tsushima\u2019s finest temples. Ban-sho-in is contains the death tablets of the Tokugawa clan as well as a variety of gifts from Korea that have been collected over the centuries.<\/p>\n

\u2022 The Soh Clan Cemetery & Ban-Sho-In: 192 Izuharamachi Nishizato, Tsushima<\/a>; \u00a5300<\/p>\n

4. Hachimangu Jinja Shrine<\/strong>
\n\"tsushima-13\"<\/p>\n

In the middle of the town is Hachimangu Shrine, easily spotted by its massive tori<\/em> gate. Konishi Maria, wife of Soh Yoshitoshi, the first lord of the Tsushima, is enshrined here.<\/p>\n

\u2022 Hachimangu Jinja Shrine: 645 Izuharamachi Nakamura, Tsushima<\/a>; Free entry<\/p>\n

5. Museum of Folklore and History<\/strong>
\nIf you would like to see some of the island\u2019s most treasured artifacts, head to the Folklore museum. It contains maps, ancient scroll paintings and a collection of treasures from the island\u2019s many prominent visitors and dignitaries. Descriptions are only in Japanese and photography is prohibited.<\/p>\n

\u2022 Museum of Folklore and History: 668-1 Imayashiki, Izuharamachi, Tsushima<\/a>; Free entry<\/p>\n

6. Avenue of Samurai Houses<\/strong>
\nA short walk from the information center in Izuhara is the so-called Avenue of Samurais. Along this narrow road is a collection of old houses which hark back to Japan\u2019s warriors of old. One of the houses doubles as a community centre and contains a museum to Nakarai Tousui, who appears on the Japanese \u00a55,000 bill. Born in Tsushima, Tosui became the first foreign correspondent for the Osaka Asahi Shinbun newspaper. He later wrote a variety of novels which turned him into a Japanese national treasure. The museum is only small, but has a cafe and a side exhibition dedicated to the champion Tsushima sumo wrestler, Tushima Nada.<\/p>\n

\u2022 Nakarai Tousui Museum & Community Center: 584 Izuharamachi Nakamura, Tsushima<\/a>; Free entry<\/p>\n

7. Food<\/strong>
\n\"tsushima-36\"
\nThe Tsushima Burger in all its glory<\/em><\/p>\n

While in Tsushima, you\u2019ve got to try two things: the Tsushima Burger and tonchan. The Tsushima Burger is beef-based, but the patty also contains hijiki (a Japanese sea vegetable) and squid. It is covered in a sweet mayonnaise dressing and is delicious. Tonchan is similarly delicious, a pork-based dish that speaks to Korea\u2019s influence on the island. Kiyo is a great place to try the burger, and Senryo is a charming izakaya with where you can sample the tonchan and a load of other local specialties.<\/p>\n

\u2022 Kiyo: 1052 Izuharamachi \u014ctebashi, Tsushima<\/a>
\n\u2022 Senryo: 1079 Izuharamachi \u014ctebashi, Tsushima<\/a><\/p>\n

8. Hotels<\/strong>
\nThere are plenty of hotels in Izuhara to cater to every need. Of particular note is Tsushima Seizanji, which is based in an active temple. The breakfast (Japanese) is great and the bedrooms comfortable. No onsen, but the sento (communal bath) is decent.<\/p>\n

\"dsc03535\"<\/p>\n

\u2022 Tsushima Seizanji: 1453 Izuharamachi Kokubu, Tsushima<\/a>; From \u00a55,000\/night incl. breakfast<\/p>\n

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The Great Outdoors<\/strong>
\nTsushima has bountiful natural resources that make it an outdoor lover\u2019s paradise. From hiking and sea kayaking to scuba diving and snorkeling, Tsushima has it all. Add to that an impressive variety of wildlife and you could spend a lifetime discovering Tsushima\u2019s great outdoors.<\/p>\n

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Hiking<\/strong>
\n\"tsushima-30\"<\/p>\n

Tsushima has a bunch of incredible hikes dotted around the island. The highest mountain on the island is Mount Yatate, which rises 649m above Tsushima. Here are three recommended hikes; be sure to visit an information center to pick up the Tsushima Trekking Guide Book (\u5bfe\u99ac\u30c8\u30ec\u30c3\u30ad\u30f3\u30b0\u30ac\u30a4\u30c9\u30d6\u30c3\u30af).<\/p>\n

1. Shiratake (\u767d\u5dbd)<\/strong>
\nShiratake has been regarded as a holy mountain on Tsushima for over a millennia, and has been selected as one of Kyushu\u2019s 100 best mountains. The top is fairly steep and becomes more of a scramble than a hike. However, the views from the top are fantastic. The distinct twin peaks of Shiratake are visible from across the island and will be one of the first things you see once you step off the plane. The mountain is located in a wildlife protection area, and the seasonal flowers are gorgeous.<\/p>\n

\u2022 Height: 519m; Distance: 2.2km; Time: 75 min. to top excl. rest time.
\n\u2022 Shiratake (\u767d\u5dbd): Mitsushimacho Sumo, Tsushima<\/a><\/p>\n

2. Joyama (\u57ce\u5c71)<\/strong>
\n\"tsushima-28\"
\nReality vs expectations: on a clear day you can see Korea from here<\/em><\/p>\n

More of a leisurely stroll through a beautiful forest than a full-on hike, this route is laced with history, tracing the ancient path up to the ruins of Kaneda Castle (\u91d1\u7530\u57ce\u8de1). The castle was originally built in the year 667 as a strategic lookout towards Korea, and was retrofitted over 1,000 years later during the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905) with concrete fixtures and modern artillery. On sunny days, there are great views towards South Korea! Along the route you can see some rare plants including the uncaria hook plant (vine that hooks to other trees to grow) and endemic orchid species.<\/p>\n

\u2022 Height: 272.8m; Distance: 2.6km; Time: 50 min. to top excl. rest time.
\n\u2022 Joyama (\u57ce\u5c71): Mitsushimacho Kurose, Tsushima<\/a><\/p>\n

3. Mitake (\u5fa1\u5cb3)<\/strong>
\nAlongside Shiratake, Mitake is considered one of the island\u2019s holy mountains. The main attraction of Mitake is its unique collection of wildlife. Until the 1920s, it was home to Japan\u2019s largest species of woodpecker, the kitataki, and other rare birds still call the area home including white-tailed eagles. It is also notable as the home to a collection of yamaneko, the wildcat species endemic to the island. They\u2019re tiny, so there\u2019s no danger of being attacked by one! A wonderful hike through a primeval forest with great scenery.<\/p>\n

\u2022 Height: 479 m; Distance 1.5km; Time: 90 min. to top excl. rest time.
\n\u2022 Mitake (\u5fa1\u5cb3): Kamiagatacho Seta, Tsushima<\/a><\/p>\n

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Sea Kayaking<\/strong>
\n\"tsushima-7\"
\nSea kayaking with Tsushima Eco Tours<\/em><\/p>\n

Sea Kayaking around Aso Bay is one of the best ways you can explore Tsushima, with its network of inlets and uninhabited islands dotted all over the place. The bay is sheltered meaning waters are calm and beginner friendly. Two companies can be found in Aso Bay:<\/p>\n

1. Tsushima Eco Tours<\/strong>
\n\"tsushisma-3\"<\/p>\n

Tsushima Eco Tours mainly offers beginners tours in Japanese (they\u2019re very good at miming to English speakers and are exceptionally friendly). They offer a range of guided tours from half-day sea kayaking tours (3hrs, \u00a56,500) to two-day diving and sea kayaking tours (\u00a520,000). They offer tours no matter the season, but reservations are required!<\/p>\n

Tsushima Eco Tours<\/strong>
\n\u2022 29 Mikata, Mitsushima-machi, Tsushima<\/a>
\n\u2022 0920-54-3595
\n\u2022 http:\/\/seakayak.kacchell-tsushima.net<\/a><\/p>\n

2. Tsushima Kayaks<\/strong>
\n\"tsushima-27\"<\/p>\n

Just next door to Tsushima Eco Tours, Tsushima Kayaks offers a similar selection of kayaking options as well as tours for more experienced kayakers. One-day (6hrs) tours start at \u00a510,000 and include lunch.<\/p>\n

Tsushima Kayaks<\/strong>
\n\u2022 29 Mikata, Mitsushima-machi, Tsushima<\/a>
\n\u2022 090-4891-5064
\n\u2022 http:\/\/www.sea.tcctv.ne.jp\/fun-boo\/tours.html<\/a><\/p>\n

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Scuba Diving & Snorkeling <\/strong>
\nIn 2012, coral was discovered in Tsushima, the most northern coral in the world, beating the previous record holder, Iki Island. There are a couple of diving shops on the island where you can rent gear and explore the island\u2019s seas. Check out the kayaking shops too, which offer combined kayak\/diving packages. If you don\u2019t fancy scuba, then make sure you bring along a mask and snorkel to fully enjoy the island’s waters.<\/p>\n

1. Jou Jou (\u30b9\u30ad\u30e5\u30fc\u30d0\u30c0\u30a4\u30d3\u30f3\u30b0\u5c4b\u4e0a\u3005)<\/strong>
\n\u2022 Beach dives \u00a54,000~; Boat dives \u00a57,000~; Overnight packages available.
\n\u2022 737-3 Kuta, Izuhara-machi, Tsushima<\/a>
\n\u2022 08:45~17:30
\n\u2022 0920-52-5011
\n\u2022 http:\/\/www.scubadiving-joujou.jp <\/a><\/p>\n

2. Abyss Diving (\u30a2\u30d3\u30b9\u30c0\u30a4\u30d3\u30f3\u30b0\u5bfe\u99ac)<\/strong>
\n\u2022 Beach dives: \u00a56,000~; Boat dives (x2) \u00a522,000; Scuba Qualifications: \u00a565,000~
\n\u2022 301-17 Higashizato, Izuhara-machi, Tsushima<\/a>
\n\u2022 10:00~20:00
\n\u2022 080-3900-0677
\n\u2022 http:\/\/abyss8.com\/<\/a><\/p>\n

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Horse Riding<\/strong>
\n\"tsushima-9\"<\/p>\n

Tsushima has its own breed of horses known as Tai-shu-ba, similar in stature to Shetland ponies, but more closely related to wild Mongolian horses. There used to be 4,000 horses on the island, used mainly in agriculture, but now only 39 remain. Head to Mehoro Dam Baji Kouen to go horse riding: you can go for full or half-day treks (\u00a530,000\/\u00a515,000) or try a 30-min. river trek (\u00a52,000~\u00a54,000). Due to the size of the horses, the treks are only available to those who weigh below 70kg. Five-minute rides are available to those who weigh below 80kg. Reservations required!<\/p>\n

\"tsushima-24\"
\n“I’ve never ridden a horse before”<\/em><\/p>\n

Mehoro Dam Baji Koen (horse park)<\/strong>
\n\u2022 Park: 09:30~17:00, Horse riding: 10:00~16:00
\n\u2022 Closed: Mon., Thu. and in heavy rain.
\n\u2022 Seta, Kamiagata-cho, Tsushima<\/a>
\n\u2022 0920-85-1113
\n\u2022 http:\/\/www.sea.tcctv.ne.jp\/fun-boo\/TsushimaNativeHorse.html<\/a><\/p>\n

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Beaches & Coastline<\/strong>
\n\"tsushima-18\"<\/p>\n

Tsushima has plenty of white-sand beaches, where you can relax and swim. In the north of the island, Miuda Beach (\u4e09\u5b87\u7530\u6d5c<\/a>) has been selected as one of the top 100 beaches in Japan and is a must visit. It can get pretty crowded during the summer season, but is almost empty off-peak (September onwards). Camping is possible at the beach\u2019s camp site. Mogi Beach (\u8302\u6728\u6d5c<\/a>) is located about 45 minutes drive south of Miuda and is similarly sandy. If you are on the south island, you can head to Oura Beach (\u5c3e\u6d66\u6d77\u6c34<\/a>). Though it\u2019s pretty rocky, it has camping and barbecue facilities and barbecue pits. More beaches can be found on the Tsushima government website here<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Watazumi Shrine<\/strong>
\nIf you are driving around the coastline then you\u2019ve got to make a stop at Watazumi Shrine<\/strong>. One of the most iconic spots on Tsushima, Watazumi Shrine\u2019s has a set of five tori gates that lead into the sea.<\/p>\n

\"watazumi_shrine_jinja\"<\/p>\n

The shrine has an aura of exceptional serenity, but is a popular stopping point for groups of tourists on their way around the island. Head to the shrine early in the morning to see it at its best.<\/p>\n

\u2022 Watazumi Shrine: 55 Toyotamacho Nii, Tsushima<\/a><\/p>\n

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Wildlife<\/strong>
\n\"tsushima-14\"<\/p>\n

Because of its low population and high forest cover, Tsushima\u2019s wildlife has remained well intact. It is the only place in the world that you can find the Tsushima Leopard Cat (tsushima yamaneko) which is related to the similarly endangered Iriomote yamaneko. The cat is roughly similar in size to a housecat, but has the patterning of a leopard. You\u2019ll be lucky to spot one in the wild, there\u2019s only about 100 on the island, but if you\u2019re determined to see one, head to the Tsushima Wildlife Conservation Center. The center has a (mostly) Japanese exhibition on Tsushima\u2019s biodiversity, and a real life yamaneko. The center is about 90 minutes from the airport.<\/p>\n

\"tsushima-16\"<\/p>\n

Tsushima Wildlife Conservation Center<\/strong>
\n\u2022 10:00~16:30 (L.I.: 16:00)
\n\u2022 Closed: Mon. (Tue. if Mon. is Hol.)
\n\u2022 Free
\n\u2022 Saozaki Park, Kamiagata-cho, Tsushima<\/a>
\n\u2022 0920-84-5577
\n\u2022 http:\/\/kyushu.env.go.jp\/twcc\/multilang\/english\/profile.htm <\/a><\/p>\n

The Island is also notable for its seasonal flowers, with many endemic species. One of the most spectacular events of the year is the flowering of the Hitotsu-Batago tree in May every year. Found only in the north of Tsushima, this white flower gives the appearance of snow cover, and transforms the northern coast of Tsushima.<\/p>\n

Keep your eyes turned to the skies for Tsushima\u2019s impressive collection of cranes, eagles and wood pidgeons. Several species are both endemic and endangered.<\/p>\n

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Viewpoints<\/strong>
\n\"tsushima-11\"
\nThe Kankoku Lookout<\/em><\/p>\n

On clear days, Korea can be seen from most north-facing viewpoints. One of the best viewpoints on the south island is from the ruins of Kaneda Castle at the top of Joyama (see hiking section). Meanwhile, at the northwest tip of the island is Tsushima\u2019s main viewpoint towards Korea: the Kankoku (Korea) Lookout. You can also see Korea from the top of Saozaki Park. The park contains the remains of several gun batteries and the Tsushima Wildlife Conservation Center.<\/p>\n

Kankoku Lookout<\/strong>
\n\u2022 09:00~18:00
\n\u2022 Closed: Never
\n\u2022 Free (Telescope: \u00a5100)
\n\u2022 Waniura, Kamitsushima-machi, Tsushima<\/a>
\n\u2022 0920-86-4839<\/p>\n

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Local Produce<\/strong>
\nLike any small island, Tsushima has its fair share of local produce. Apart from fantastically fresh fish, keep an eye out for following the local produce:<\/p>\n

Soba<\/strong>
\n\"tsushisma-2\"
\nMake your own soba<\/em><\/p>\n

According to legend, Tsushima is the land in which Japanese soba (buckwheat noodles) was invented, made from buckwheat flour imported from China. Tsushima\u2019s soba is called \u2018Tai-shu maboroshi soba\u2019 and has a uniquely intense buckwheat flavor. At Soba Dojo you can learn to make your own soba and eat them afterwards (\u00a54,000, up to four people). Reservations required at least three days in advance.<\/p>\n

Soba Dojo, Agata no Sato<\/strong>
\n\u2022 Gift shop: 09:00~16:00, Lessons; 10:30~11.30 Restaurant: 11:00~14:00
\n\u2022 Closed: 12\/29 ~ 1\/4
\n\u2022 565-2 Sasuna-ko, Kamiagata-cho, Tsushima<\/a>
\n\u2022 0920-84-2340
\n\u2022 http:\/\/sakusyoku.com\/agata\/<\/a><\/p>\n

Taiyaki<\/strong>
\n\"tsushima-15\"<\/p>\n

If you\u2019ve spent time in Japan before, you may have tried taiyaki, custard or red-bean filled, fish-shaped pastries. The sweet is fundamentally the same on Tsushima, but is unique for its shape, a circular design with the fish curled up on itself.<\/p>\n

Nagatome Kashiten<\/strong>
\n\u2022 09:00~17:00
\n\u2022 Closed: Mon., Fri. and summer
\n\u2022 588 Saka, Mine-cho, Tsushima<\/a>
\n\u2022 0920-82-0814<\/p>\n

Honey<\/strong>
\nWhen travelling around the island you may notice the odd, out-of-place wooden stump at the side of the road. These are used as beehives to create the famous and delicious Tsushima honey. Honey can be bought at the Izuhara Information Center\u2019s gift store.<\/p>\n

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Map<\/strong><\/p>\n