Sipping Shochu!

 

Text by Nick Martindale
I had been interested in shochu since I first ventured out to a little izakaya in a dark backstreet of Chikushino one muggy night in September. I was planning to get my first taste of Japanese drinking culture with a few of my fellow fresh-off-the-plane gaijin. Admittedly, we weren’t expecting to get much beyond the names of a couple of decent beers or maybe trying a sake or two in a traditional-looking bar. But that night Japan had other plans.
With the Tom & Jerry cartoon on the top-corner portable TV barely into its second loop of the night, the beer had run dry. Even after a laudable effort on the part of one trusted regular who, at one point, slinked off all but unnoticed to a nearby supermarket to smuggle back another six bottles of Kirin. With ten under-inebriated gaijin facing her over the counter, improvising, the proprietor reloaded our glasses with what she and the smuggler assured us was the establishment’s finest “Kyushu Spirit”. Sipped at fearfully or knocked back in daring, the results on the faces of my friends told a mixed story. ‘It’s actually quite nice.’ said one mass of contorted features. ‘I don’t think I’ll be having any more.’ a semi-paralysed tongue laboured back. A few satisfied groans further down the bar signalled round two. Consensus had it that Kyushu Spirit – whatever it was – tasted a lot like a watered-down whisky. Clearly, we didn’t have a clue.
So when I stumbled across Fukuoka Now’s editor, Nick Szasz, at September’s Gaijin Idol and told him about my experience with this mysterious drink I was surprised to find out that whatever-it-was was actually called, shochu. And what’s more, it has a thriving industry centred on its home territory of Kyushu.
Relentless self-publicist, some weeks later I respond to an ad in Fukuoka Now’s classifieds appealing for cover models. Somehow sensing I was qualified, presumably by the zeal I’d shown for drinking in Japan that night at Gaijin Idol, Nick calls and suggests I should go shochu tasting and write it up for the magazine. I’m immediately seduced. The thought of qualified local stardom as the cover feature was already too much to resist. And free booze?

 

With my friend Adam, a veteran of the first izakaya incident, we head to a larger, more refined izakaya on a bright and chilly November afternoon. This time even less beer. We get straight to it with a fired-earth cup of crisp, clear shochu over a rough block of ice. I reach (it’s all I can do) for Western comparisons. A smooth vodka, ice-cold with the merest hint of flavour. Next stop a medium-sized shop with a helpful owner who guides us through shot after shot of Kagoshima’s finest.
We finish with the shoot over some delicious chicken, tofu and Spanish garlic shrimp in a restaurant-bar with a cool yet tasteful wooden interior. From the restaurant patio I gaze out across the river’s winter sunset and can’t help but think back to the first faulting steps I’d taken in the world of shochu with the accidental smuggler in Chikushino. I make a resolution: next time I see her and the beer’s running short she won’t have to nip round to the local supermarket. I’ll order some shochu, some Kyushu Spirit.
For those, like me, who have come to Japan carrying a heavy load of ignorance about shochu, the kind people at Fukuoka Now handily published a piece in 2003 with all you could possibly want to know about the topic. It’s updated, refurbished and republished below. Kampai!

 

 

 

 

Takaki, Minami-ku, Fukuoka

 

Hidden away in a residential area along the Naka River, you’d be forgiven for mistaking Sakuran for a warehouse at first glance. Step inside, though, and find yourself stepping in to another world. The beautifully decorated interior calls to mind a luxurious courtesan’s quarters. 18 varieties of shochu are on offer, from cheaper brands such as Kurokirishima (¥450) to premium brands such as Morizo (¥1,500), Maoh (¥800) and Kameshizuku (¥5,000, served in a large pot). Managed by a seafood wholesalers, they also serve excellent and reasonably priced seafood, such as shrimps in garlic oil (¥580) and crab stew (¥1980 yen per person, minimum of 2 orders). The grilled chicken (¥480) and spicy tofu in chili oil also go great with a glass or two of shochu.

 

 

 

 

Tenya-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka

 

This izakaya is popular with both Japanese and non-Japanese people who are looking for great-tasting seafood and a wide variety of shochu. They stock more than 400 different types of shochu, including Morizo (¥1650) and Murasaki no Sekitoba (¥900). The rare, premium brands can be ordered by the glass, while bottles of regular brands can be kept behind the bar for as little as ¥3,980. Sasuke stays open ‘till 5:00am (3:00am on Sundays and holidays) and private rooms with karaoke are also available, making it a great spot for parties or just for a few after-hours drinks. The food is seasonal and includes beef stew (¥1,145 per person, minimum of 2 orders) as well as many dishes ideal for snacking on while drinking your shochu.

 

 

 

 

Shirogane, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka

 

Formerly a pottery gallery, current owner Mr. Okuma (a good English speaker!) fell in love with the building so much that he took it over and 7 years ago converted it into a bar. The retro Showa era-style interior certainly adds to the ambience, but this is no novelty bar. Mr. Okuma is an SSI-certified “shochu adviser”, and he personally visited distillers and liquor traders in Kagoshima and Miyazaki to carefully select the approximately 520 varieties of shochu that he serves. The food, all made by Mr. Okuma, is also carefully selected to go well with shochu. “Potato, barley, rice… different types of shochu go well with different foods,” he says, “for example potato shochu goes well with cheese or full-flavored pork”. Sure enough, his menu includes pork pizza (¥780), alongside many other dishes such as spicy motsu nabe (¥980 per person, minimum of 2 orders), which is made with home-blended miso.

 

 

 

 

Watanabedori, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka

 

Opened in October, this shop sells Satsuma shochu, which is a honkaku shochu made only in Kagoshima using local sweet potatoes and water. The shop sells a total of 800 varieties of shochu, in bottles of all shapes and sizes, and also teapot-like traditional Kagoshima drinking vessels called kurojoka. Owner Mr. Takagawa is on hand to help you choose by providing friendly advice about the flavors and distilling methods of each brand, as well as fascinating facts about Kagoshima culture. If you still can’t make your mind up, you can even try samples of 10 different varieties in the shop’s tasting corner. Shochu-tasting events are also hosted here from time to time in cooperation with a Kagoshima shochu distillery. Check out the shop’s homepage for details of upcoming events and special offers.

 

 

より大きな地図で Shochu Map 2010 を表示

 

EXTRA! – For more information on shochu read our text from a previous issue on shochu publish in Oct. 2006.

 

Ask someone overseas what liquor they associate with Japan and odds are they’ll answer sake, or nihonshu in Japanese. One of the delightful discoveries awaiting people who come to Kyushu, however, is the locally produced shochu, which most natives would choose for a relaxing drink instead of a thimbleful of sake. Written with the Chinese characters for “fiery liquor”, shochu has a long history, can be made from several different ingredients, and is drunk throughout the year in many ways and in a variety of settings. In that spirit, Fukuoka Now focuses this month on that quintessentially Kyushu drink, shochu!

 

So what’s the difference between the two? Sake is a brewed beverage made from rice that, like beer, has been fermented and aged. Shochu is a distilled beverage, making it a kin of whiskey or vodka. It is unique among distilled beverages, however, because the production process combines the two conversion stages–from starch to sugar and from sugar to alcohol–which are usually separate. It is then aged, sometimes for as long as 10 years. While sake is brewed only from rice, shochu can be made from a cornucopia of ingredients, including sweet potatoes and barley.
There are two shochu classifications. The first is koshu (Grade A), which has been distilled several times. Multiple distillation smoothes out the rough spots, resulting in a beverage that is generally flavorless and odorless. Especially popular in Tokyo and points north, koshu is often sipped with an umeboshi or slice of lemon, but its most common usage is as the key ingredient in chuhai, a refreshing mixed drink consumed in large quantities in drinking establishments during the summer. It combines shochu, a fruit flavored sour mix, carbonated water, and ice. Commercially mixed chuhai can be purchased straight out of the cooler at liquor stores or convenience stores. Koshu is generally 70 proof.
Down south, however, and especially in Kyushu, people prefer the otsushu (Grade B) variety. This is distilled only once, allowing the drink to maintain the flavor and aroma of the original ingredients. It is often called honkaku, or authentic, shochu, because this is the original form of the beverage with a history dating back to the 13th or 14th Century. Depending on the ingredient and the distiller, authentic shochu ranges from 50 to 80 proof.
There are three theories about shochu’s origin and the route by which it came to Japan. It is generally agreed to have arrived here some 500 years ago, and it also was used as a medicinal disinfectant until the end of the Edo era. The most common explanation for its presence in Japan is that a primitive form of the drink originated in Thailand and was later brewed in the Okinawan islands, where it was called awamori, or millet brandy. Indeed, shochu consumption in Okinawa and Kagoshima Prefecture far outstrips that of sake, and it is not uncommon to find shochu drinkers there who have never tasted nihonshu.
Others think that shochu arrived from the mountainous regions of China by way of Shanghai. The third holds that it came from northern China through the Korean peninsula. Lending credence to this theory is the drink’s popularity in South Korea, where it is called soju and is the country’s most widely consumed alcoholic beverage. All Korean shochu is the koshu type and the leading brand, Jinro, can be purchased at liquor stores throughout Japan. But be warned–it’s meant to be drunk straight and is sold that way.
Whichever course the Shochu Road followed, authentic shochu in particular has been a favorite ever since it hit the shores of Kyushu. As with wine production, soil quality is an important factor in determining ingredient quality. Kyushu has long been noted for the exceptional quality of its shochu due to its superb environment with plenty of clean water and abundant agricultural products.
Not so long ago, however, many people looked down their nose at shochu, disdaining it as the drink of the working class–in short, your grandfather’s booze. The koshu variety ignited the first wave of shochu’s mass market popularity in Japan in the early to mid-80s, which coincided with a worldwide trend toward lighter liquors. During the period from 1980 to 1995, shochu consumption in Japan tripled.
The chaser came in 2000 with the renewed passion for authentic shochu. Those who once rolled their eyes at the mere mention of the drink finally discovered that the rich flavor of the ingredients in authentic shochu made for a tasty treat. Shochu consumption has spread rapidly throughout Kyushu and to the Tokyo area in the past few years, with Grade B shochu production in Japan climbing 7.5% in the year ending June 2003 and shipments of the sweet potato variety, favored in Kagoshima, soaring 17.2%. Imbibing shochu has now become respectable and it is no longer unusual to see fine brands of shochu listed on the menus at eating and drinking places.

 

The primary reason behind shochu’s surge in popularity is that people have cottoned on to its great taste. Several other factors have boosted the growing appeal of the drink, however.

 

Shochu tastes great either warmed or chilled, making it a fine drink throughout the year.

 

A two-ounce serving of shochu contains about 35 calories. Some people think it has no calories at all, but that’s not strictly correct. There are two types of calories in an alcoholic drink. One kind is the calories from the ingredients, and the other kind is the calories from the alcohol. The calories from the ingredients accumulate in the body–that’s the reason some dedicated beer drinkers carry a spare tire around their waist. But the calories from the alcohol are immediately converted to heat and emitted, warming the drinker’s body. All of shochu’s calories are from the alcohol, so drinking it won’t cause you to put on the pounds. Just be careful not to eat too many snacks while you’re at it.

 

A Kurashiki University professor published an article in a British medical journal claiming that authentic shochu was effective for preventing thrombosis (hardening of the blood in the blood vessels). Others believe it will be shown to be effective for preventing heart attacks and diabetes, so perhaps those extra hours in an izaka-ya will lengthen your life span.

 

Authentic shochu is made from different ingredients, each with its own distinctive characteristics. So, as is the case with wine, drinkers can make a selection to complement the cuisine, such as Western, Japanese, or Chinese food, and the occasion – whether drunk before or after dinner. Considering authentic shochu’s remarkable versatility, shochu consumption just might spread internationally. This is one boom unlikely to fizzle out soon and the drink is likely to increase in popularity among many different age groups in many regions.

 

 

One reason for authentic shochu’s growing appeal is the quality of the carefully selected ingredients. Maintaining the inherent flavor and aroma of the ingredients is an important factor that sets shochu apart from other liquors.

 

Shochu is the only commercial alcoholic beverage made from sweet potatoes. Production of sweet potato shochu climbed after the Second World War, when the shortages of rice and barley for food consumption led to their rationing, so distillers used satsumaimo to pick up the slack. To fully appreciate the distinctive aroma, flavor, and soft sweetness of sweet potato shochu, try it mixed with hot water, on the rocks, or straight. Tastes best in October and November. Primarily produced in Kagoshima and Miyazaki Prefectures

 

Shochu made from rice, Japan’s staple food, is made throughout the country, but the best-known variety is Kuma shochu from the Hitoyoshi Basin in Kumamoto. If you want to enjoy its smooth fruity flavor, drink it on the rocks, straight, or mixed with warm water. Primarily produced in Kumamoto Prefecture, and throughout Japan

 

Shochu’s flavor is determined by whether one uses rice or barley for the malt. The barley from Oita Prefecture is very popular for its distinctive aroma, mild taste with no rough edges, and consistency during the process of converting the ingredients to malt. It is eminently drinkable either on the rocks or mixed with water. Primarily produced in Oita Prefecture, Nagasaki Prefecture (Iki Island), and Miyazaki Prefecture

 

Soba shochu kicked off the trend for greater diversity in shochu ingredients. Younger drinkers prefer its simple taste, unique aroma, and hint of sweetness. It can be used for cocktails, mixed with hot water, or on the rocks. Primarily produced in Miyazaki Prefecture, Nagano Prefecture, and Hokkaido

 

Many other ingredients are used to make shochu, including sesame, potatoes, and carrots. One unique variety is kasutori shochu, which is made with the sake lees left over from sake brewing. That’s why Fukuoka, where sake brewing thrives, is also the leading area for kasutori shochu production. Don’t pass up a chance to try this distinctive drink, with its fruity taste and exceptional aroma. Other types attracting attention are a variety of awamori in Okinawa made from Thai rice and the mellow sweetness of the brown sugar shochu made in the islands off Kagoshima Prefecture.

 

 

People enjoy shochu in one of four primary ways–mixed with warm water, mixed with water, on the rocks, or straight. Since there is no single standard way to drink shochu, discovering your favorite variety and way of drinking it can be an enjoyable adventure. Here are a few suggestions to get you started.

 

Fill a glass with warm water–make sure that it is not boiling water–and then pour in the shochu. Mixing with warm water has a double benefit: it heats the container and allows the water and the shochu to blend well, releasing its aroma. Warming the shochu itself further draws out the natural fragrance of the drink.

 

First-time tipplers may want to try shochu straight, if only to discover the drink’s inherent flavors. Drinking it on the rocks has the surprising effect of bringing out its sweetness. Using mineral water instead of tap water for the ice further enhances the flavor. You’ll taste the difference when the ice melts and mixes with the shochu.

 

Shochu can be drunk in your container of choice, including an Arita ceramic cup, a baccarat glass, or an old jelly jar from the back of the cupboard. Folks down Kagoshima way use a special container called a kurojoka. This is designed to allow shochu to be poured in and heated. Drinking it warm brings out the drink’s finest qualities.

 

Why not try the old-fashioned way of drinking shochu?
Step 1: Mix shochu and good water in a half-and-half mixture in a kurojoka if you have one. A ceramic container or PET bottle also can be used.
Step 2: Let it sit for a day or two.
Step 3: If it’s in a kurojoka, heat as it is. If not, put the mixture in a kobachi (a small bowl), and warm it by either heating the container in boiling water or heating it directly.
Step 4: Mix it well after it’s warmed.
This is sure to create a rich drink that goes down smoothly!

 

 

 

Some believe the optimum mixing ratio is six parts shochu and four parts water or hot water. This term comes from the Japanese words for the numbers six and four. Seven and three (shichisan) and five to five (gogo) also are used. It is not unusual, however, for people to use more water than shochu, particularly when mixing it with hot water.

Example sentence: Nomikata dou suru? Ja, rokuyon no o-yuwari de. (How will you drink it? I’ll have a six-to-four mixture using hot water.)

 

Regular patrons at bars in Japan save money by buying a bottle for their exclusive use at that bar in the “keep” system, though not every drinking establishment does this. If you think you’re not up to downing a full issho bottle–1.8 liters, or almost half of a U.S. gallon–try a gogobin, which is just half that size. Not all shochu manufacturers use that bottle size, however.

Example sentence: O-nomimono ha? Iichiko no gogobin keepu de. Mizuwari setto (water and ice) mo ne. (What’ll it be? I’ll have the gogo-sized bottle of Iichiko and use it as a keep. Don’t forget the set-ups.)

 

Ki refers to shochu downed straight.

Example sentence: Hajimete nomuken, ki de nonde miyokaina (This is my first glass of shochu, so maybe I’ll try it straight.)

 

 

焼酎は蒸留酒の一種。特に乙類焼酎は、蒸留するのは1回のみのため、原材料の味わいやうまみが楽しめる。なかでも添加物をいっさい加えていないものには「本格焼酎」の称号が与えられる。つまり、本格焼酎の味わいは、九州の自然の恵みそのものの味なのである。焼酎のユニークなところは、蒸留酒にもかかわらず、食中酒として好まれているところ。世界を見渡すと、ウィスキーやブランデーなど蒸留酒は、おもに食後酒として飲まれている。これに対し焼酎は、お湯や水で割って飲むため、アルコール度が低くなり（日本酒やワインと同じくらい）、後口がさっぱりしていて料理に合うため、食中酒に適していると考えられるが・・・そもそも、日本には「食後酒」なんていう習慣がなかったことが一番だろう。

 

本格焼酎は、九州各地で作られているが、産地によって使われる原材料はさまざまだ。イモ焼酎は、鹿児島と宮崎南部が本場。同じ宮崎でも、北部は米、山間部はそばがメインだ。鹿児島でも、奄美に行くと黒糖焼酎が一般的になる。熊本は米のみを使う球磨焼酎が名物だし、大分は、「二階堂」「いいちこ」など麦焼酎が全国的な知名度を誇っている。
福岡では、米や麦が多いなか、ゴマ焼酎「紅乙女」が異彩を放つ。人気が高いのは圧倒的にイモ焼酎だが、機会があれば、イモ以外の焼酎もぜひ試してみよう。居酒屋で焼酎をオーダーする時には、瓶で頼むのが九州では一般的（高級なプレミアム焼酎はのぞく）。なんてったって、そっちの方が安い。ほとんどの店でキープが可能な5合瓶（約900ml）を提供しているはずだ。自分たちの好みの濃さで水割りやお湯割を作るのも楽しい。相手が初対面でもお互いのために飲み物を作っていると、すぐに打ち解ける。3人そろえば、ボトル1本くらいは、アッと言う間に空いてしまうだろう。
さて、「焼酎は次の日に残らない」とよく言われる。蒸留酒が、ワインや日本酒などの醸造酒に比べ、酔いが残らないのは確かだ。焼酎も日本酒に比べ平均して10分酔いが抜けるのが早いという実験結果もある。だからと言って二日酔いにならないわけではない。飲み過ぎれば、翌日ツラいのはどんなお酒でも同じ。適量を守って、楽しいお酒に！

 

 

福岡市・高木

 

那珂川沿いに延びる住宅街を歩くと、一見倉庫のような建物が現れる。玄関をくぐり一歩店内に足を踏み入れると、世界が一変。花魁を連想させる絢爛豪華なイメージに圧倒される。まるで映画のセットに迷い込んだかのような錯覚に陥るはずだ。焼酎は、おなじみの「黒霧島」（グラス¥450）から、「森伊蔵」（¥1,500）や「魔王」（¥800）、「甕雫」（飲みきり1かめ¥5000）などのプレミアム焼酎まで、厳選した18種類がそろう。料理は、海鮮問屋直営だけあって、海老のガーリックオイル（¥580）、本たらばがに鍋（1人前1980・注文は2人から）など、魚介類を使った料理を手ごろな値段で提供。しかし、実は魚介類以外の食材も直仕入れにすることにより、コストを削減。すべての料理をリーズナブルに楽しむことができるのだ。炙りささみ（¥480）や激辛ラー油やっこ（¥400）は、焼酎のアテにおすすめ。窓の外の那珂川を眺めながら、ゆったりと焼酎と料理を堪能しよう。

 

 

 

 

福岡市・店屋町

 

店名に「魚」と銘打っているだけあって、新鮮な魚を求めて訪れる外国人客も多い。外国人客で、それと同じくらい多いのが、カウンターの向こうにズラリと並んだ焼酎の一升瓶を店の外から見て、ついつい足を踏み入れる客だ。「森伊蔵」（グラス¥1650）や「赤兎馬 綾紫」（グラス¥900）などのプレミアム焼酎をはじめ、店内には400種類以上の焼酎がそろう。また、レギュラー酒は、一升瓶でキープ可能。大人数でリーズナブルに楽しむなら、これがおすすめだ。料理は、季節によって旬なものを提供する。寒くなってくると、黒毛和牛のもつ鍋（1人前¥1,145・注文は2人から）が人気。ほかにも明太子とキュウリを巻いた博多のだしまき（¥780）や博多明太子のくんせい（¥580）など、焼酎に合う博多ならではの料理も充実している。平日は翌朝5：00まで、日祝は深夜3：00営業しているので、食事の後にバーとして利用するのもいい。1人でもグループでも心地よく過ごせる店だ。

 

 

 

 

福岡市・白金

 

住宅街の奥まった場所に立つ一軒家。元々、唐津焼のギャラリーだったが、建物にほれこんだオーナーの大隈さんが譲り受け、７年前に焼酎バーとして開店した。まさに昔の民家そのままの造りだが、レトロな小物や歌謡曲のシングル盤が飾られ、独特なムードを醸し出している。そして何よりも目を引くのが、ずらりと並んだ焼酎の一升瓶。現在、この店で飲める焼酎は、約520種類。すべて、SSI認定焼酎アドバイザーの資格をもつ大隈さんが、自ら蔵元や酒販店に足を運んで選んだ逸品だ。料理も、焼酎に合うものを大隈さん自らが用意。「イモ、麦、米と焼酎の種類によって、合う料理があります。たとえば、イモはチーズや味がしっかりした豚肉が合うんです」そこで生まれたメニューが豚トロピザ（¥780）。ほかにも、独自にブレンドした味噌が自慢のピリ辛の丸腸もつ鍋（１人前¥980・注文は2人前から）などフードメニューはバラエティ豊か。大隈さんは英語が話せるので、外国人も安心して利用できる。

 

 

 

 

福岡市・渡辺通

 

「薩摩焼酎蔵 匠」は、10月にオープンした「薩摩焼酎」を扱うショップ。「薩摩焼酎」とは、鹿児島産のサツマイモと水を使用し、鹿児島県内で製造された本格焼酎のみに許されるブランドだ。店内には、約800種の焼酎が並び、カラフルなラベルを競っている。外国人や焼酎ビギナーにとってありがたいのが、試飲コーナー。日によって異なるが10種類以上のテイスティングが可能だ。瀧川店長と会話を交わしながらの試飲が、また楽しい。焼酎の味や製法の特長を教えてくれるので商品選びに役立てよう。1升瓶や5合瓶のほかに、ミニボトルやワンカップスタイルの焼酎も販売。ちょっとしたおみやげに重宝しそうだ。店外のショーウィンドウとレジの下に飾られているのは、2升半瓶。升（ます）が2つで「ますます」、さらに升（しょう）の半分で「繁盛（はんじょう）」を意味し、鹿児島では縁起物としてお祝いの際に贈るそうだ。焼酎のほかにも黒ジョカ（¥8,400）なども販売。焼酎を通して鹿児島の文化に触れることができるショップなのだ。鹿児島の酒造会社と共同で試飲会なども店舗で開催する。イベントやお得なセット商品の情報は、ホームページでチェックしよう。

 

 

より大きな地図で Shochu Map 2010 を表示

 

 

Text by Nick Martindale
I had been interested in shochu since I first ventured out to a little izakaya in a dark backstreet of Chikushino one muggy night in September. I was planning to get my first taste of Japanese drinking culture with a few of my fellow fresh-off-the-plane gaijin. Admittedly, we weren’t expecting to get much beyond the names of a couple of decent beers or maybe trying a sake or two in a traditional-looking bar. But that night Japan had other plans.
With the Tom & Jerry cartoon on the top-corner portable TV barely into its second loop of the night, the beer had run dry. Even after a laudable effort on the part of one trusted regular who, at one point, slinked off all but unnoticed to a nearby supermarket to smuggle back another six bottles of Kirin. With ten under-inebriated gaijin facing her over the counter, improvising, the proprietor reloaded our glasses with what she and the smuggler assured us was the establishment’s finest “Kyushu Spirit”. Sipped at fearfully or knocked back in daring, the results on the faces of my friends told a mixed story. ‘It’s actually quite nice.’ said one mass of contorted features. ‘I don’t think I’ll be having any more.’ a semi-paralysed tongue laboured back. A few satisfied groans further down the bar signalled round two. Consensus had it that Kyushu Spirit – whatever it was – tasted a lot like a watered-down whisky. Clearly, we didn’t have a clue.
So when I stumbled across Fukuoka Now’s editor, Nick Szasz, at September’s Gaijin Idol and told him about my experience with this mysterious drink I was surprised to find out that whatever-it-was was actually called, shochu. And what’s more, it has a thriving industry centred on its home territory of Kyushu.
Relentless self-publicist, some weeks later I respond to an ad in Fukuoka Now’s classifieds appealing for cover models. Somehow sensing I was qualified, presumably by the zeal I’d shown for drinking in Japan that night at Gaijin Idol, Nick calls and suggests I should go shochu tasting and write it up for the magazine. I’m immediately seduced. The thought of qualified local stardom as the cover feature was already too much to resist. And free booze?

 

With my friend Adam, a veteran of the first izakaya incident, we head to a larger, more refined izakaya on a bright and chilly November afternoon. This time even less beer. We get straight to it with a fired-earth cup of crisp, clear shochu over a rough block of ice. I reach (it’s all I can do) for Western comparisons. A smooth vodka, ice-cold with the merest hint of flavour. Next stop a medium-sized shop with a helpful owner who guides us through shot after shot of Kagoshima’s finest.
We finish with the shoot over some delicious chicken, tofu and Spanish garlic shrimp in a restaurant-bar with a cool yet tasteful wooden interior. From the restaurant patio I gaze out across the river’s winter sunset and can’t help but think back to the first faulting steps I’d taken in the world of shochu with the accidental smuggler in Chikushino. I make a resolution: next time I see her and the beer’s running short she won’t have to nip round to the local supermarket. I’ll order some shochu, some Kyushu Spirit.
For those, like me, who have come to Japan carrying a heavy load of ignorance about shochu, the kind people at Fukuoka Now handily published a piece in 2003 with all you could possibly want to know about the topic. It’s updated, refurbished and republished below. Kampai!

 

 

 

 

Takaki, Minami-ku, Fukuoka

 

Hidden away in a residential area along the Naka River, you’d be forgiven for mistaking Sakuran for a warehouse at first glance. Step inside, though, and find yourself stepping in to another world. The beautifully decorated interior calls to mind a luxurious courtesan’s quarters. 18 varieties of shochu are on offer, from cheaper brands such as Kurokirishima (¥450) to premium brands such as Morizo (¥1,500), Maoh (¥800) and Kameshizuku (¥5,000, served in a large pot). Managed by a seafood wholesalers, they also serve excellent and reasonably priced seafood, such as shrimps in garlic oil (¥580) and crab stew (¥1980 yen per person, minimum of 2 orders). The grilled chicken (¥480) and spicy tofu in chili oil also go great with a glass or two of shochu.

 

 

 

 

Tenya-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka

 

This izakaya is popular with both Japanese and non-Japanese people who are looking for great-tasting seafood and a wide variety of shochu. They stock more than 400 different types of shochu, including Morizo (¥1650) and Murasaki no Sekitoba (¥900). The rare, premium brands can be ordered by the glass, while bottles of regular brands can be kept behind the bar for as little as ¥3,980. Sasuke stays open ‘till 5:00am (3:00am on Sundays and holidays) and private rooms with karaoke are also available, making it a great spot for parties or just for a few after-hours drinks. The food is seasonal and includes beef stew (¥1,145 per person, minimum of 2 orders) as well as many dishes ideal for snacking on while drinking your shochu.

 

 

 

 

Shirogane, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka

 

Formerly a pottery gallery, current owner Mr. Okuma (a good English speaker!) fell in love with the building so much that he took it over and 7 years ago converted it into a bar. The retro Showa era-style interior certainly adds to the ambience, but this is no novelty bar. Mr. Okuma is an SSI-certified “shochu adviser”, and he personally visited distillers and liquor traders in Kagoshima and Miyazaki to carefully select the approximately 520 varieties of shochu that he serves. The food, all made by Mr. Okuma, is also carefully selected to go well with shochu. “Potato, barley, rice… different types of shochu go well with different foods,” he says, “for example potato shochu goes well with cheese or full-flavored pork”. Sure enough, his menu includes pork pizza (¥780), alongside many other dishes such as spicy motsu nabe (¥980 per person, minimum of 2 orders), which is made with home-blended miso.

 

 

 

 

Watanabedori, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka

 

Opened in October, this shop sells Satsuma shochu, which is a honkaku shochu made only in Kagoshima using local sweet potatoes and water. The shop sells a total of 800 varieties of shochu, in bottles of all shapes and sizes, and also teapot-like traditional Kagoshima drinking vessels called kurojoka. Owner Mr. Takagawa is on hand to help you choose by providing friendly advice about the flavors and distilling methods of each brand, as well as fascinating facts about Kagoshima culture. If you still can’t make your mind up, you can even try samples of 10 different varieties in the shop’s tasting corner. Shochu-tasting events are also hosted here from time to time in cooperation with a Kagoshima shochu distillery. Check out the shop’s homepage for details of upcoming events and special offers.

 

 

より大きな地図で Shochu Map 2010 を表示

 

EXTRA! – For more information on shochu read our text from a previous issue on shochu publish in Oct. 2006.

 

Ask someone overseas what liquor they associate with Japan and odds are they’ll answer sake, or nihonshu in Japanese. One of the delightful discoveries awaiting people who come to Kyushu, however, is the locally produced shochu, which most natives would choose for a relaxing drink instead of a thimbleful of sake. Written with the Chinese characters for “fiery liquor”, shochu has a long history, can be made from several different ingredients, and is drunk throughout the year in many ways and in a variety of settings. In that spirit, Fukuoka Now focuses this month on that quintessentially Kyushu drink, shochu!

 

So what’s the difference between the two? Sake is a brewed beverage made from rice that, like beer, has been fermented and aged. Shochu is a distilled beverage, making it a kin of whiskey or vodka. It is unique among distilled beverages, however, because the production process combines the two conversion stages–from starch to sugar and from sugar to alcohol–which are usually separate. It is then aged, sometimes for as long as 10 years. While sake is brewed only from rice, shochu can be made from a cornucopia of ingredients, including sweet potatoes and barley.
There are two shochu classifications. The first is koshu (Grade A), which has been distilled several times. Multiple distillation smoothes out the rough spots, resulting in a beverage that is generally flavorless and odorless. Especially popular in Tokyo and points north, koshu is often sipped with an umeboshi or slice of lemon, but its most common usage is as the key ingredient in chuhai, a refreshing mixed drink consumed in large quantities in drinking establishments during the summer. It combines shochu, a fruit flavored sour mix, carbonated water, and ice. Commercially mixed chuhai can be purchased straight out of the cooler at liquor stores or convenience stores. Koshu is generally 70 proof.
Down south, however, and especially in Kyushu, people prefer the otsushu (Grade B) variety. This is distilled only once, allowing the drink to maintain the flavor and aroma of the original ingredients. It is often called honkaku, or authentic, shochu, because this is the original form of the beverage with a history dating back to the 13th or 14th Century. Depending on the ingredient and the distiller, authentic shochu ranges from 50 to 80 proof.
There are three theories about shochu’s origin and the route by which it came to Japan. It is generally agreed to have arrived here some 500 years ago, and it also was used as a medicinal disinfectant until the end of the Edo era. The most common explanation for its presence in Japan is that a primitive form of the drink originated in Thailand and was later brewed in the Okinawan islands, where it was called awamori, or millet brandy. Indeed, shochu consumption in Okinawa and Kagoshima Prefecture far outstrips that of sake, and it is not uncommon to find shochu drinkers there who have never tasted nihonshu.
Others think that shochu arrived from the mountainous regions of China by way of Shanghai. The third holds that it came from northern China through the Korean peninsula. Lending credence to this theory is the drink’s popularity in South Korea, where it is called soju and is the country’s most widely consumed alcoholic beverage. All Korean shochu is the koshu type and the leading brand, Jinro, can be purchased at liquor stores throughout Japan. But be warned–it’s meant to be drunk straight and is sold that way.
Whichever course the Shochu Road followed, authentic shochu in particular has been a favorite ever since it hit the shores of Kyushu. As with wine production, soil quality is an important factor in determining ingredient quality. Kyushu has long been noted for the exceptional quality of its shochu due to its superb environment with plenty of clean water and abundant agricultural products.
Not so long ago, however, many people looked down their nose at shochu, disdaining it as the drink of the working class–in short, your grandfather’s booze. The koshu variety ignited the first wave of shochu’s mass market popularity in Japan in the early to mid-80s, which coincided with a worldwide trend toward lighter liquors. During the period from 1980 to 1995, shochu consumption in Japan tripled.
The chaser came in 2000 with the renewed passion for authentic shochu. Those who once rolled their eyes at the mere mention of the drink finally discovered that the rich flavor of the ingredients in authentic shochu made for a tasty treat. Shochu consumption has spread rapidly throughout Kyushu and to the Tokyo area in the past few years, with Grade B shochu production in Japan climbing 7.5% in the year ending June 2003 and shipments of the sweet potato variety, favored in Kagoshima, soaring 17.2%. Imbibing shochu has now become respectable and it is no longer unusual to see fine brands of shochu listed on the menus at eating and drinking places.

 

The primary reason behind shochu’s surge in popularity is that people have cottoned on to its great taste. Several other factors have boosted the growing appeal of the drink, however.

 

Shochu tastes great either warmed or chilled, making it a fine drink throughout the year.

 

A two-ounce serving of shochu contains about 35 calories. Some people think it has no calories at all, but that’s not strictly correct. There are two types of calories in an alcoholic drink. One kind is the calories from the ingredients, and the other kind is the calories from the alcohol. The calories from the ingredients accumulate in the body–that’s the reason some dedicated beer drinkers carry a spare tire around their waist. But the calories from the alcohol are immediately converted to heat and emitted, warming the drinker’s body. All of shochu’s calories are from the alcohol, so drinking it won’t cause you to put on the pounds. Just be careful not to eat too many snacks while you’re at it.

 

A Kurashiki University professor published an article in a British medical journal claiming that authentic shochu was effective for preventing thrombosis (hardening of the blood in the blood vessels). Others believe it will be shown to be effective for preventing heart attacks and diabetes, so perhaps those extra hours in an izaka-ya will lengthen your life span.

 

Authentic shochu is made from different ingredients, each with its own distinctive characteristics. So, as is the case with wine, drinkers can make a selection to complement the cuisine, such as Western, Japanese, or Chinese food, and the occasion – whether drunk before or after dinner. Considering authentic shochu’s remarkable versatility, shochu consumption just might spread internationally. This is one boom unlikely to fizzle out soon and the drink is likely to increase in popularity among many different age groups in many regions.

 

 

One reason for authentic shochu’s growing appeal is the quality of the carefully selected ingredients. Maintaining the inherent flavor and aroma of the ingredients is an important factor that sets shochu apart from other liquors.

 

Shochu is the only commercial alcoholic beverage made from sweet potatoes. Production of sweet potato shochu climbed after the Second World War, when the shortages of rice and barley for food consumption led to their rationing, so distillers used satsumaimo to pick up the slack. To fully appreciate the distinctive aroma, flavor, and soft sweetness of sweet potato shochu, try it mixed with hot water, on the rocks, or straight. Tastes best in October and November. Primarily produced in Kagoshima and Miyazaki Prefectures

 

Shochu made from rice, Japan’s staple food, is made throughout the country, but the best-known variety is Kuma shochu from the Hitoyoshi Basin in Kumamoto. If you want to enjoy its smooth fruity flavor, drink it on the rocks, straight, or mixed with warm water. Primarily produced in Kumamoto Prefecture, and throughout Japan

 

Shochu’s flavor is determined by whether one uses rice or barley for the malt. The barley from Oita Prefecture is very popular for its distinctive aroma, mild taste with no rough edges, and consistency during the process of converting the ingredients to malt. It is eminently drinkable either on the rocks or mixed with water. Primarily produced in Oita Prefecture, Nagasaki Prefecture (Iki Island), and Miyazaki Prefecture

 

Soba shochu kicked off the trend for greater diversity in shochu ingredients. Younger drinkers prefer its simple taste, unique aroma, and hint of sweetness. It can be used for cocktails, mixed with hot water, or on the rocks. Primarily produced in Miyazaki Prefecture, Nagano Prefecture, and Hokkaido

 

Many other ingredients are used to make shochu, including sesame, potatoes, and carrots. One unique variety is kasutori shochu, which is made with the sake lees left over from sake brewing. That’s why Fukuoka, where sake brewing thrives, is also the leading area for kasutori shochu production. Don’t pass up a chance to try this distinctive drink, with its fruity taste and exceptional aroma. Other types attracting attention are a variety of awamori in Okinawa made from Thai rice and the mellow sweetness of the brown sugar shochu made in the islands off Kagoshima Prefecture.

 

 

People enjoy shochu in one of four primary ways–mixed with warm water, mixed with water, on the rocks, or straight. Since there is no single standard way to drink shochu, discovering your favorite variety and way of drinking it can be an enjoyable adventure. Here are a few suggestions to get you started.

 

Fill a glass with warm water–make sure that it is not boiling water–and then pour in the shochu. Mixing with warm water has a double benefit: it heats the container and allows the water and the shochu to blend well, releasing its aroma. Warming the shochu itself further draws out the natural fragrance of the drink.

 

First-time tipplers may want to try shochu straight, if only to discover the drink’s inherent flavors. Drinking it on the rocks has the surprising effect of bringing out its sweetness. Using mineral water instead of tap water for the ice further enhances the flavor. You’ll taste the difference when the ice melts and mixes with the shochu.

 

Shochu can be drunk in your container of choice, including an Arita ceramic cup, a baccarat glass, or an old jelly jar from the back of the cupboard. Folks down Kagoshima way use a special container called a kurojoka. This is designed to allow shochu to be poured in and heated. Drinking it warm brings out the drink’s finest qualities.

 

Why not try the old-fashioned way of drinking shochu?
Step 1: Mix shochu and good water in a half-and-half mixture in a kurojoka if you have one. A ceramic container or PET bottle also can be used.
Step 2: Let it sit for a day or two.
Step 3: If it’s in a kurojoka, heat as it is. If not, put the mixture in a kobachi (a small bowl), and warm it by either heating the container in boiling water or heating it directly.
Step 4: Mix it well after it’s warmed.
This is sure to create a rich drink that goes down smoothly!

 

 

 

Some believe the optimum mixing ratio is six parts shochu and four parts water or hot water. This term comes from the Japanese words for the numbers six and four. Seven and three (shichisan) and five to five (gogo) also are used. It is not unusual, however, for people to use more water than shochu, particularly when mixing it with hot water.

Example sentence: Nomikata dou suru? Ja, rokuyon no o-yuwari de. (How will you drink it? I’ll have a six-to-four mixture using hot water.)

 

Regular patrons at bars in Japan save money by buying a bottle for their exclusive use at that bar in the “keep” system, though not every drinking establishment does this. If you think you’re not up to downing a full issho bottle–1.8 liters, or almost half of a U.S. gallon–try a gogobin, which is just half that size. Not all shochu manufacturers use that bottle size, however.

Example sentence: O-nomimono ha? Iichiko no gogobin keepu de. Mizuwari setto (water and ice) mo ne. (What’ll it be? I’ll have the gogo-sized bottle of Iichiko and use it as a keep. Don’t forget the set-ups.)

 

Ki refers to shochu downed straight.

Example sentence: Hajimete nomuken, ki de nonde miyokaina (This is my first glass of shochu, so maybe I’ll try it straight.)

 

 

Text by Nick Martindale
I had been interested in shochu since I first ventured out to a little izakaya in a dark backstreet of Chikushino one muggy night in September. I was planning to get my first taste of Japanese drinking culture with a few of my fellow fresh-off-the-plane gaijin. Admittedly, we weren’t expecting to get much beyond the names of a couple of decent beers or maybe trying a sake or two in a traditional-looking bar. But that night Japan had other plans.
With the Tom & Jerry cartoon on the top-corner portable TV barely into its second loop of the night, the beer had run dry. Even after a laudable effort on the part of one trusted regular who, at one point, slinked off all but unnoticed to a nearby supermarket to smuggle back another six bottles of Kirin. With ten under-inebriated gaijin facing her over the counter, improvising, the proprietor reloaded our glasses with what she and the smuggler assured us was the establishment’s finest “Kyushu Spirit”. Sipped at fearfully or knocked back in daring, the results on the faces of my friends told a mixed story. ‘It’s actually quite nice.’ said one mass of contorted features. ‘I don’t think I’ll be having any more.’ a semi-paralysed tongue laboured back. A few satisfied groans further down the bar signalled round two. Consensus had it that Kyushu Spirit – whatever it was – tasted a lot like a watered-down whisky. Clearly, we didn’t have a clue.
So when I stumbled across Fukuoka Now’s editor, Nick Szasz, at September’s Gaijin Idol and told him about my experience with this mysterious drink I was surprised to find out that whatever-it-was was actually called, shochu. And what’s more, it has a thriving industry centred on its home territory of Kyushu.
Relentless self-publicist, some weeks later I respond to an ad in Fukuoka Now’s classifieds appealing for cover models. Somehow sensing I was qualified, presumably by the zeal I’d shown for drinking in Japan that night at Gaijin Idol, Nick calls and suggests I should go shochu tasting and write it up for the magazine. I’m immediately seduced. The thought of qualified local stardom as the cover feature was already too much to resist. And free booze?

 

With my friend Adam, a veteran of the first izakaya incident, we head to a larger, more refined izakaya on a bright and chilly November afternoon. This time even less beer. We get straight to it with a fired-earth cup of crisp, clear shochu over a rough block of ice. I reach (it’s all I can do) for Western comparisons. A smooth vodka, ice-cold with the merest hint of flavour. Next stop a medium-sized shop with a helpful owner who guides us through shot after shot of Kagoshima’s finest.
We finish with the shoot over some delicious chicken, tofu and Spanish garlic shrimp in a restaurant-bar with a cool yet tasteful wooden interior. From the restaurant patio I gaze out across the river’s winter sunset and can’t help but think back to the first faulting steps I’d taken in the world of shochu with the accidental smuggler in Chikushino. I make a resolution: next time I see her and the beer’s running short she won’t have to nip round to the local supermarket. I’ll order some shochu, some Kyushu Spirit.
For those, like me, who have come to Japan carrying a heavy load of ignorance about shochu, the kind people at Fukuoka Now handily published a piece in 2003 with all you could possibly want to know about the topic. It’s updated, refurbished and republished below. Kampai!

 

 

 

 

Takaki, Minami-ku, Fukuoka

 

Hidden away in a residential area along the Naka River, you’d be forgiven for mistaking Sakuran for a warehouse at first glance. Step inside, though, and find yourself stepping in to another world. The beautifully decorated interior calls to mind a luxurious courtesan’s quarters. 18 varieties of shochu are on offer, from cheaper brands such as Kurokirishima (¥450) to premium brands such as Morizo (¥1,500), Maoh (¥800) and Kameshizuku (¥5,000, served in a large pot). Managed by a seafood wholesalers, they also serve excellent and reasonably priced seafood, such as shrimps in garlic oil (¥580) and crab stew (¥1980 yen per person, minimum of 2 orders). The grilled chicken (¥480) and spicy tofu in chili oil also go great with a glass or two of shochu.

 

 

 

 

Tenya-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka

 

This izakaya is popular with both Japanese and non-Japanese people who are looking for great-tasting seafood and a wide variety of shochu. They stock more than 400 different types of shochu, including Morizo (¥1650) and Murasaki no Sekitoba (¥900). The rare, premium brands can be ordered by the glass, while bottles of regular brands can be kept behind the bar for as little as ¥3,980. Sasuke stays open ‘till 5:00am (3:00am on Sundays and holidays) and private rooms with karaoke are also available, making it a great spot for parties or just for a few after-hours drinks. The food is seasonal and includes beef stew (¥1,145 per person, minimum of 2 orders) as well as many dishes ideal for snacking on while drinking your shochu.

 

 

 

 

Shirogane, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka

 

Formerly a pottery gallery, current owner Mr. Okuma (a good English speaker!) fell in love with the building so much that he took it over and 7 years ago converted it into a bar. The retro Showa era-style interior certainly adds to the ambience, but this is no novelty bar. Mr. Okuma is an SSI-certified “shochu adviser”, and he personally visited distillers and liquor traders in Kagoshima and Miyazaki to carefully select the approximately 520 varieties of shochu that he serves. The food, all made by Mr. Okuma, is also carefully selected to go well with shochu. “Potato, barley, rice… different types of shochu go well with different foods,” he says, “for example potato shochu goes well with cheese or full-flavored pork”. Sure enough, his menu includes pork pizza (¥780), alongside many other dishes such as spicy motsu nabe (¥980 per person, minimum of 2 orders), which is made with home-blended miso.

 

 

 

 

Watanabedori, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka

 

Opened in October, this shop sells Satsuma shochu, which is a honkaku shochu made only in Kagoshima using local sweet potatoes and water. The shop sells a total of 800 varieties of shochu, in bottles of all shapes and sizes, and also teapot-like traditional Kagoshima drinking vessels called kurojoka. Owner Mr. Takagawa is on hand to help you choose by providing friendly advice about the flavors and distilling methods of each brand, as well as fascinating facts about Kagoshima culture. If you still can’t make your mind up, you can even try samples of 10 different varieties in the shop’s tasting corner. Shochu-tasting events are also hosted here from time to time in cooperation with a Kagoshima shochu distillery. Check out the shop’s homepage for details of upcoming events and special offers.

 

 

より大きな地図で Shochu Map 2010 を表示

 

EXTRA! – For more information on shochu read our text from a previous issue on shochu publish in Oct. 2006.

 

Ask someone overseas what liquor they associate with Japan and odds are they’ll answer sake, or nihonshu in Japanese. One of the delightful discoveries awaiting people who come to Kyushu, however, is the locally produced shochu, which most natives would choose for a relaxing drink instead of a thimbleful of sake. Written with the Chinese characters for “fiery liquor”, shochu has a long history, can be made from several different ingredients, and is drunk throughout the year in many ways and in a variety of settings. In that spirit, Fukuoka Now focuses this month on that quintessentially Kyushu drink, shochu!

 

So what’s the difference between the two? Sake is a brewed beverage made from rice that, like beer, has been fermented and aged. Shochu is a distilled beverage, making it a kin of whiskey or vodka. It is unique among distilled beverages, however, because the production process combines the two conversion stages–from starch to sugar and from sugar to alcohol–which are usually separate. It is then aged, sometimes for as long as 10 years. While sake is brewed only from rice, shochu can be made from a cornucopia of ingredients, including sweet potatoes and barley.
There are two shochu classifications. The first is koshu (Grade A), which has been distilled several times. Multiple distillation smoothes out the rough spots, resulting in a beverage that is generally flavorless and odorless. Especially popular in Tokyo and points north, koshu is often sipped with an umeboshi or slice of lemon, but its most common usage is as the key ingredient in chuhai, a refreshing mixed drink consumed in large quantities in drinking establishments during the summer. It combines shochu, a fruit flavored sour mix, carbonated water, and ice. Commercially mixed chuhai can be purchased straight out of the cooler at liquor stores or convenience stores. Koshu is generally 70 proof.
Down south, however, and especially in Kyushu, people prefer the otsushu (Grade B) variety. This is distilled only once, allowing the drink to maintain the flavor and aroma of the original ingredients. It is often called honkaku, or authentic, shochu, because this is the original form of the beverage with a history dating back to the 13th or 14th Century. Depending on the ingredient and the distiller, authentic shochu ranges from 50 to 80 proof.
There are three theories about shochu’s origin and the route by which it came to Japan. It is generally agreed to have arrived here some 500 years ago, and it also was used as a medicinal disinfectant until the end of the Edo era. The most common explanation for its presence in Japan is that a primitive form of the drink originated in Thailand and was later brewed in the Okinawan islands, where it was called awamori, or millet brandy. Indeed, shochu consumption in Okinawa and Kagoshima Prefecture far outstrips that of sake, and it is not uncommon to find shochu drinkers there who have never tasted nihonshu.
Others think that shochu arrived from the mountainous regions of China by way of Shanghai. The third holds that it came from northern China through the Korean peninsula. Lending credence to this theory is the drink’s popularity in South Korea, where it is called soju and is the country’s most widely consumed alcoholic beverage. All Korean shochu is the koshu type and the leading brand, Jinro, can be purchased at liquor stores throughout Japan. But be warned–it’s meant to be drunk straight and is sold that way.
Whichever course the Shochu Road followed, authentic shochu in particular has been a favorite ever since it hit the shores of Kyushu. As with wine production, soil quality is an important factor in determining ingredient quality. Kyushu has long been noted for the exceptional quality of its shochu due to its superb environment with plenty of clean water and abundant agricultural products.
Not so long ago, however, many people looked down their nose at shochu, disdaining it as the drink of the working class–in short, your grandfather’s booze. The koshu variety ignited the first wave of shochu’s mass market popularity in Japan in the early to mid-80s, which coincided with a worldwide trend toward lighter liquors. During the period from 1980 to 1995, shochu consumption in Japan tripled.
The chaser came in 2000 with the renewed passion for authentic shochu. Those who once rolled their eyes at the mere mention of the drink finally discovered that the rich flavor of the ingredients in authentic shochu made for a tasty treat. Shochu consumption has spread rapidly throughout Kyushu and to the Tokyo area in the past few years, with Grade B shochu production in Japan climbing 7.5% in the year ending June 2003 and shipments of the sweet potato variety, favored in Kagoshima, soaring 17.2%. Imbibing shochu has now become respectable and it is no longer unusual to see fine brands of shochu listed on the menus at eating and drinking places.

 

The primary reason behind shochu’s surge in popularity is that people have cottoned on to its great taste. Several other factors have boosted the growing appeal of the drink, however.

 

Shochu tastes great either warmed or chilled, making it a fine drink throughout the year.

 

A two-ounce serving of shochu contains about 35 calories. Some people think it has no calories at all, but that’s not strictly correct. There are two types of calories in an alcoholic drink. One kind is the calories from the ingredients, and the other kind is the calories from the alcohol. The calories from the ingredients accumulate in the body–that’s the reason some dedicated beer drinkers carry a spare tire around their waist. But the calories from the alcohol are immediately converted to heat and emitted, warming the drinker’s body. All of shochu’s calories are from the alcohol, so drinking it won’t cause you to put on the pounds. Just be careful not to eat too many snacks while you’re at it.

 

A Kurashiki University professor published an article in a British medical journal claiming that authentic shochu was effective for preventing thrombosis (hardening of the blood in the blood vessels). Others believe it will be shown to be effective for preventing heart attacks and diabetes, so perhaps those extra hours in an izaka-ya will lengthen your life span.

 

Authentic shochu is made from different ingredients, each with its own distinctive characteristics. So, as is the case with wine, drinkers can make a selection to complement the cuisine, such as Western, Japanese, or Chinese food, and the occasion – whether drunk before or after dinner. Considering authentic shochu’s remarkable versatility, shochu consumption just might spread internationally. This is one boom unlikely to fizzle out soon and the drink is likely to increase in popularity among many different age groups in many regions.

 

 

One reason for authentic shochu’s growing appeal is the quality of the carefully selected ingredients. Maintaining the inherent flavor and aroma of the ingredients is an important factor that sets shochu apart from other liquors.

 

Shochu is the only commercial alcoholic beverage made from sweet potatoes. Production of sweet potato shochu climbed after the Second World War, when the shortages of rice and barley for food consumption led to their rationing, so distillers used satsumaimo to pick up the slack. To fully appreciate the distinctive aroma, flavor, and soft sweetness of sweet potato shochu, try it mixed with hot water, on the rocks, or straight. Tastes best in October and November. Primarily produced in Kagoshima and Miyazaki Prefectures

 

Shochu made from rice, Japan’s staple food, is made throughout the country, but the best-known variety is Kuma shochu from the Hitoyoshi Basin in Kumamoto. If you want to enjoy its smooth fruity flavor, drink it on the rocks, straight, or mixed with warm water. Primarily produced in Kumamoto Prefecture, and throughout Japan

 

Shochu’s flavor is determined by whether one uses rice or barley for the malt. The barley from Oita Prefecture is very popular for its distinctive aroma, mild taste with no rough edges, and consistency during the process of converting the ingredients to malt. It is eminently drinkable either on the rocks or mixed with water. Primarily produced in Oita Prefecture, Nagasaki Prefecture (Iki Island), and Miyazaki Prefecture

 

Soba shochu kicked off the trend for greater diversity in shochu ingredients. Younger drinkers prefer its simple taste, unique aroma, and hint of sweetness. It can be used for cocktails, mixed with hot water, or on the rocks. Primarily produced in Miyazaki Prefecture, Nagano Prefecture, and Hokkaido

 

Many other ingredients are used to make shochu, including sesame, potatoes, and carrots. One unique variety is kasutori shochu, which is made with the sake lees left over from sake brewing. That’s why Fukuoka, where sake brewing thrives, is also the leading area for kasutori shochu production. Don’t pass up a chance to try this distinctive drink, with its fruity taste and exceptional aroma. Other types attracting attention are a variety of awamori in Okinawa made from Thai rice and the mellow sweetness of the brown sugar shochu made in the islands off Kagoshima Prefecture.

 

 

People enjoy shochu in one of four primary ways–mixed with warm water, mixed with water, on the rocks, or straight. Since there is no single standard way to drink shochu, discovering your favorite variety and way of drinking it can be an enjoyable adventure. Here are a few suggestions to get you started.

 

Fill a glass with warm water–make sure that it is not boiling water–and then pour in the shochu. Mixing with warm water has a double benefit: it heats the container and allows the water and the shochu to blend well, releasing its aroma. Warming the shochu itself further draws out the natural fragrance of the drink.

 

First-time tipplers may want to try shochu straight, if only to discover the drink’s inherent flavors. Drinking it on the rocks has the surprising effect of bringing out its sweetness. Using mineral water instead of tap water for the ice further enhances the flavor. You’ll taste the difference when the ice melts and mixes with the shochu.

 

Shochu can be drunk in your container of choice, including an Arita ceramic cup, a baccarat glass, or an old jelly jar from the back of the cupboard. Folks down Kagoshima way use a special container called a kurojoka. This is designed to allow shochu to be poured in and heated. Drinking it warm brings out the drink’s finest qualities.

 

Why not try the old-fashioned way of drinking shochu?
Step 1: Mix shochu and good water in a half-and-half mixture in a kurojoka if you have one. A ceramic container or PET bottle also can be used.
Step 2: Let it sit for a day or two.
Step 3: If it’s in a kurojoka, heat as it is. If not, put the mixture in a kobachi (a small bowl), and warm it by either heating the container in boiling water or heating it directly.
Step 4: Mix it well after it’s warmed.
This is sure to create a rich drink that goes down smoothly!

 

 

 

Some believe the optimum mixing ratio is six parts shochu and four parts water or hot water. This term comes from the Japanese words for the numbers six and four. Seven and three (shichisan) and five to five (gogo) also are used. It is not unusual, however, for people to use more water than shochu, particularly when mixing it with hot water.

Example sentence: Nomikata dou suru? Ja, rokuyon no o-yuwari de. (How will you drink it? I’ll have a six-to-four mixture using hot water.)

 

Regular patrons at bars in Japan save money by buying a bottle for their exclusive use at that bar in the “keep” system, though not every drinking establishment does this. If you think you’re not up to downing a full issho bottle–1.8 liters, or almost half of a U.S. gallon–try a gogobin, which is just half that size. Not all shochu manufacturers use that bottle size, however.

Example sentence: O-nomimono ha? Iichiko no gogobin keepu de. Mizuwari setto (water and ice) mo ne. (What’ll it be? I’ll have the gogo-sized bottle of Iichiko and use it as a keep. Don’t forget the set-ups.)

 

Ki refers to shochu downed straight.

Example sentence: Hajimete nomuken, ki de nonde miyokaina (This is my first glass of shochu, so maybe I’ll try it straight.)