Take the Fukuoka Temple Trek!
Japan’s temples and shrines are must see attractions. Kyoto, Nara, and Kamakura are such well known spots, we often forget the treasures right here in Fukuoka. This month, we introduce three temples and two shrines each boasting fantastic histories, architecture and gardens. With the map on this page and our center map you should be able to see them all in as little as three hours – and get plenty of exercise, too! Take the temple trek!
Temples & Shrines
So what’s the difference between a shrine (-jinja) and a temple (-ji)?
Temple
Temples are almost always associated with Buddhism, the religion originating in India, as opposed to Shrines which are connected to Japan’s very own Shintoism. Temples are places where Buddhist ceremonies take place, such as the ever-popular new year rites, and advice or contemplation is sought on spiritual matters. Buddhist altars tend to be more ornate than their Shinto counterparts, and always contain images or sculptures of the Buddha.
Shrine
A shrine will house a kami (god) of the indigenous, ancient Japanese religion, Shinto. Shinto is concerned with earthly affairs such as success in study, health and wealth, farming, etc, and Japanese people come to the shrine to make an offering to the enshrined god and ask for help or assistance. Many important cultural and familial events take place in Shinto shrines, including blessing newborn children, and Japanese youth’s coming of age day. Shrines are recognizable by the large torii, or gates, that must be passed through when entering.
Kushida-jinja
Legend has it that Kushida Jinja was built in 757, but the shrine could not escape the destruction of the Warring States period and was burned down in 1587. It has since been rebuilt and dedicated as part of Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s city planning project for Hakata. Locals commonly refer to it by the name of O-Kushida-san, and it has long been considered the guardian spirit for all of Hakata. Visitors appeal to the tutelary deity for prosperity in business and a long life. The shrine is located near the Kawabata commercial district, Hakata’s first. After you pass through the torii, you’ll see a two-story gate with large red lanterns directly ahead of you. Make sure to stop inside the gate and look at the ceiling, where you’ll see a Chinese astrological chart. Every year on New Year’s Eve, the arrow pointer is turned to the sign for the upcoming year to show a favorable direction. This year is the year of the dog. After you pass through the gate, the main path leads to the house of worship. This structure is used as the permanent display space for one of the floats used in the Hakata Gion Yamakasa. You’ll be dazzled by its brilliant colors and the workmanship of the traditional Hakata doll makers who built it. For more details on the Yamakasa, refer to page 40. Next to the float there are several large rocks on a platform. These were muscled onto the platform centuries ago by famous sumo rikishi both as an offering and a demonstration of their strength. Just in front of the platform on the ground is the so-called “trial rock,” which the wrestlers would lift to find out just how strong they were. Also on the shrine grounds are a stand of gingko trees estimated to be more than 1,000 years old. They have been designated a natural monument of Fukuoka Prefecture. For more than a century, it has been the site where taiko drummers beat out a rhythm to announce the start of the float race, the closing event of Yamakasa.
Kushida-jinja
1-41 Kamikawabata-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open: Open every day, 04:00 – 22:00
Shofuku-ji
Shofuku-ji was Japan’s first Zen temple. Zen, of course, is the branch of Buddhism that employs sitting meditation to achieve enlightenment. It was brought to Japan by Yosai Zenji, who spent five years studying religion in China. After his return, Yosai built this temple on land given to him by Minamoto no Yoritomo, the founder of the Kamakura Shogunate and the first military ruler of the country. The framed motto on the temple gate was a gift from the Emperor Gotoba. In contemporary language, it means “the first Zen temple.” Now more than 800 years old, Shofuku-ji is known for upholding the teachings of Buddhism, its Zen dojo, and the rigor of its ascetic practices. The temple complex contained seven primary buildings when it was built, and in these were placed three statues of the Buddha. It is also recorded that the grounds held 38 smaller temples. In 1587, Toyotomi Hideyoshi formulated a city plan for Hakata that required temples to slash their land area by 75%. Despite this reduction, the layout of Shofuku-ji’s gate, Buddhist sanctum, and priests’ chambers was maintained in the original Zen style. Therefore, the entire temple grounds were designated a national historical site in 1969. The grounds are also noted for Tsushin Bridge which arches over Musen Pond, and a stand of camphor trees. The site is so quiet and peaceful, it is hard to believe a bustling business district is nearby. A path behind the sanctum leads to Genjyu-an and Sesshin-in before returning to the starting point, providing visitors a chance to take a stroll in a unique atmosphere. Nowadays, tea is commonplace in Japan, but did you know that Yosai Zenji also introduced tea to this country? He brought seeds back with him from China and planted them on the Shofuku-ji grounds. The temple is therefore the origin of all the tea in Japan. Sengai Osho, a former chief priest at Shofuku-ji, produced some remarkable Zen paintings. He is known throughout Japan as Sengai-san of Hakata.
Shofuku-ji
6-1 Gokusho-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 08:00 – 17:00
Tocho-ji
Surrounded by office buildings and located behind a high wall on Taihaku-dori, Tocho-ji seems imposing, but in fact anyone can enter, and it is a popular site for springtime cherry blossom viewing. This temple of the Mikkyo sect was built in 806 by Kobo Daiji. The sect venerates Dainichi Nyorai, one of the forms of the Buddha, and its teachings are said to reveal profound, absolute principles. The Rokkaku-do, a hexagonal-shaped hall, was built in 1842. The roof is hexagonal, but the front of the structure has been widened to facilitate worship, and the foundation is asymmetrical. It’s only open to the public on the 28th of the month, when you’ll get the chance to see the Fukuoka Daibutsu, Japan’s largest wooden statue of the seated Buddha. Built in 1992, it is 10.8 meters high and weighs 30 tons. It was built to that height to use the figure 108, the number of worldly desires according to Buddhism. There is also a tunnel built into the base of the statue, and it is said that passing through it and reaching the other side is like going through Hell to reach Paradise.
Tocho-ji
2-4 Gokusho-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 09:00 – 17:00
Joten-ji
Joten-ji was built in 1242 by the priest Shoichi Kokushi after his return from China, with the help of the merchant Xie Guoming, a naturalized Chinese. The temple complex housed 43 smaller temples during its peak. Now, a road runs between the two precincts. There is a stone monument on the grounds on which is carved the inscription, “birthplace of udon and soba.” Among the souvenirs Shoichi Kokushi brought back from China was a diagram showing how to make flour using a waterwheel. The methods for making udon, soba, and manju using flour ground on a mill spread from here throughout Japan. The temple is also known as the site where the Hakata Gion Yamakasa, Fukuoka’s epic summer festival, originated. Legend has it that during a plague in Hakata in 1241, Shoichi Kokushi was carried around the city on a palanquin offering prayers for an end to the suffering and drove out the evil spirits. The festival floats are now carried around and pass the temple in continuation of this tradition.
Joten-ji
1-29-9 Hakataeki-mae, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 08:00 – 16:00
Sumiyoshi-jinja
Since ancient times, Sumiyoshi-no-Okami has been the divinity protecting the safety of the seas, and has been worshipped by fishermen and others in the maritime industry. Even today, many boats are still christened with the name “Sumiyoshi-maru.” Considering Fukuoka’s importance as a port city, it’s no surprise that of the 2,129 Shinto shrines in Japan with Sumiyoshi-no-Okami as the enshrined deity, Hakata’s own Sumiyoshi Jinja is the oldest. Today, the shrine grounds are located in the heart of Fukuoka City, but maps of Hakata from centuries ago show that the land on which the shrine stands was once actually on a cape near the mouth of the river. Tenryu pond, in front of the shrine’s western gate, was once part of the river mouth. The shrine has several entrances, but we recommend entering by the western gate at the front of the main path. The trees lining the path to the main sanctuary are several hundred years old, creating a peaceful setting that will remove you mentally and spiritually from the bustling city just outside. Pass through the stone torii and continue along the path to the hall of worship with its vivid crimson colors. This hall is where visitors come to pray in front of the main sanctuary where the enshrined deities are placed. The main sanctuary is at the back of the hall of worship. The shrine, designated an important national cultural treasure, is built in a distinctive architectural style that has come to be known as Sumiyoshi-zukuri. The roof is unusual in that the eaves are not curved, and it is made from the bark of cypress trees more than 1,000 years old. A hall for Noh performances was built on the shrine grounds in 1938. The hall has a stage for performances and is unique for being open on three sides. The stage also extends far out into the audience seating area. Noh and concerts are still performed on this stage, but the performers must wear white tabi (traditional Japanese stockings) regardless of the event, owing to the religious nature of the site. The hall has no air conditioning, so columns of ice containing flowers are placed in the audience seating area during summer events to help beat the heat.
Sumiyoshi-jinja
3-1-51 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 06:00 – 21:00
Call 291-2670 in advance to visit the Noh performance hall
Extra Info!
Funeral – The (Japanese) Movie
Funerals in Japan are usually held in Buddhist temples. The film ‘The Funeral’ 1987 (Ososhiki), the first work of Japanese director Juzo Itami, is a black comedy depicting a family who holds its first funeral and the people who attend. We recommend it for an insightful and hilarious glimpse into Japanese-style funerals. A must see for all japanophiles!
Green tea
When people mention tea in Japan, they mean green tea, which has a long history as part of the daily life of the people. The Yame area in southern Fukuoka Prefecture is nationally famous as a production area for high quality tea. It’s convenient to drink green tea from bottles or brewed from tea bags, but best to use the tea leaves and traditional utensils to brew it from scratch and experience the true taste of Japan.
Jinrikishas (rickshaw)
Just like in the movies it’s still possible to travel by rickshaw here, but you’ll need a reservation. On Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays they’re easy to hire in front of the Hakatamachiya Furusatokan without a booking, where they’ll whisk you away to the Kushida Shrine or other tourist spots.
Address: 1-32-202 Kawabata-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka City
Telephone: 263-5720 / 090-8836-9724
Fax: 263-5750 (24 hours)
Fees: 1,000 yen per person for 10 minutes
Reservations required a day in advance
Rakusui-en
Rakusui-en is a traditional Japanese garden that dates from the Edo period. Its seasonal foliage and waterfall make it an enjoyable place for a stroll in any season. There is a restored Meiji-era tea house on the premises, where you can enjoy a cup of maccha (green tea) for ＼300.
Address: 2-10-7 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka （以下トル：City）
Telephone: 262-6665
Hours: 09:00 – 17:00
Closed on Tuesdays
If Tuesday is a holiday, the garden will be closed the following day.
Admission: 100 yen
Soba
You’re in for a treat if you try zarusoba (chilled buckwheat noodles), whose aroma and consistency are perfect to savor in summer. The cold soba noodles are dipped into sauce and eaten. When they finish, aficionados pour the hot water used to boil the noodles into the remaining sauce and drink it. It’s an excellent pick-me-up if you’ve wilted in the summer heat.
素通りしたらもったいない！福岡のスゴイ神社仏閣に行ってみよう！
福岡の街は半径約1kmの中身がギュッと詰まったコンパクトシティ。ビジネスからショッピングまで何でも楽しめるけど、古くから大陸と交流があっただけあって、京都や奈良に負けない由緒あるお寺や神社、日本庭園まであるって知ってた？今回紹介する５つのお寺と神社は歴史、建物、雰囲気のどれをとっても一度は訪れておきたいトコばかり。３～4時間で回れるようにルートを設定しているので、一人で散策を楽しむのもよし、しっとりデートや外国人を案内するのに最適コース。ここは騙されたと思って行ってみるべし！福岡の見方が変わるハズ！
しかし、せっかく足を運ぶならお寺と神社の違いだけは押えたい。お寺は仏教の儀式を執り行う場所。その肝心の仏教については起源は紀元前5世紀頃、釈迦が現在のインドで人間の苦悩の解決の道を説いて各地に広まったことによる。福岡に縁が深い仏教の一派、禅宗は中国から伝わったとされ、インド出身のだるまが6世紀初めに中国各地で禅を広めたという。
そして神社は神道の神々を祀る場所。日本人ははるか昔より森羅万象あらゆるものに神を見いだしてきた。神道は、このように複数の神を信仰する、日本固有の宗教といえる。
×××聖福寺（しょうふくじ）×××
日本最初の禅寺である聖福寺。禅宗とは坐禅を中心とした修行により「悟り」が体得される仏教の一派のこと。この禅宗を日本で最初に伝えたのが日本禅宗の始祖・栄西禅師(ようさいぜんじ)。宋（中国）で5年間修行した後、1195（建久5）年に鎌倉幕府初代将軍であり、武家政治の創始者となった、源頼朝よりこの地を賜り創建に至る。また山門楼上に掲げてある扁額（へんがく） 「扶桑最初禅窟」（ふそうさいしょのぜんくつ）の文字は鎌倉時代に三代にわたって院政を執った後鳥羽上皇により賜る。「扶桑」は日本、「最初禅窟」は初めての禅宗寺院という意。開創より800余年、現在も禅の教えは護られており、禅の専門道場、そして厳しい修行の場として知られている。
創建当初、七堂伽藍（しちどうがらん）の仏殿には釈迦・弥勒・弥陀の三世仏が安置され、境内の山内寺院も38院を数えたという。
1587年に豊臣秀吉が行った都市計画、「太閤町割」（たいこうまちわり）により境内は四分の一に狭まったが今なお山門、仏殿（ぶつでん）、方丈（ほうじょう）などの堂塔の配置形式が禅宗様式の七堂伽藍のまま、よく保存されているため、1969（昭和44）年に境内全体が国の史跡に指定された。
境内には無染池（むせんいけ）にかかる通津橋や緑繁る楠の木立があるなど、ビジネス街のすぐ近くとは思えないほど静かな趣きがある。仏殿裏手にある参道は幻住庵（げんじゅあん）から節信院（せっしんいん）と続き、最後には元の仏殿に戻れるので風情ある散策を楽しむのもいい。
今では日本で日常的に飲まれているお茶。実はこの「茶」を初めて日本にもたらしたのも栄西禅師。宋から茶を持ち帰り、茶種を境内などに植え、今日では茶処として名高い京都の宇治など日本各地に広めたという。
また、歴代高僧で有名なのが仙がい和尚。「博多の仙がいさん」として親しまれている。
住所：福岡市博多区御供所町6-1
電話：092-291-0775
境内自由：8:00～17:００
休：なし
××× 東長寺 ×××
オフィスビルが立ち並ぶ、大博通沿いに高い塀が続く東長寺。敷居が高いかと思いきや、春には花見のために訪れる人なども多く、気軽に立ち寄れる存在なのだ。実は広く名を知られた弘法大師空海が806（大同元）（だいどう・がん）年に創建した密教寺院。密教とは仏教の一派で、大日如来を本尊とする奥深い絶対真理の教えをいう。
形が珍しい六角堂は1842（天保13）年の建造。屋根は正六角形だが正面は礼拝のために広くし、下層部分は変形の六角形構造。中には六体の仏像が安置されている。
毎月28日のみの公開だが、木造坐像としては日本最大の福岡大仏も見ておきたい。1992（平成４）年 に建立され、高さ10.8メートル、重さ30トン。大仏の高さは仏教での煩悩の数である108になぞらえてある。大仏の台座の中にある「地獄・極楽めぐり」もぜひ体験を。中は真っ暗なトンネル状になっており、出た時に極楽の気分が味わえること請け合いだ。
住所：福岡市博多区御供所町2-4
電話：092-291-4459
拝観自由：9:00～17:00
休：なし
××× 承天寺 ×××
宋の帰化人で貿易商の謝国明（しゃこくめい）が宋（中国）から帰国した聖一国師（しょういちこくし）を助けて1242（仁治3）（にんじ・３）年に建てた寺。隆盛期には４３もの小寺院があった。
境内には「饂飩蕎麦発祥之地」（うどんそばはっしょうのち）と刻まれた石碑がある。聖一国師は宋から水車を使った製粉技術を記した「水磨の図」（すいまのず）を持ち帰り、この挽き臼技術による粉を使ったうどん、蕎麦、饅頭などの製法を日本各地に広めたという。
また勇壮な夏祭、博多祇園山笠の発祥の地としても知られている。1241（仁治2）年に博多で疫病が流行した時、 聖一国師が施餓鬼棚（せがきだな）に乗り、それを棒で担がせ、祈祷して廻って病魔を退散させたという。今日でも門前に清道を設けて山笠がめぐるのはそのいわれによるものだと伝えられている。
住所：福岡市博多区博多駅前1-29-9
電話：092-431-3570
境内自由：8:00～16:００
休：なし
××× 櫛田神社 ×××
社伝によると757（天平宝字元）（てんぴょうほうじ・がん）年創建。戦国時代には戦火を免れず、一時荒廃したが1587（天正15）年に豊臣秀吉の都市計画、「博多町割」の際に社殿を建立、寄進された。
古くから博多の総鎮守（そうちんじゅ）として、「お櫛田さん」の名で地元の人々に親しまれてきた。商売繁盛、不老長寿の神としても信仰を集めている。
櫛田神社は博多で最初に栄えた商業の町、川端商店街のすぐ近くにある。鳥居をくぐると、正面に大きな赤い提灯がさがった 楼門がある。この楼門を通ると参道、拝殿があるわけだが、このまま進むのはもったいない。楼門の中に入ったら立ち止まってぜひ天井を見上げて欲しい。えと恵方盤があるのだ。「えと」とは暦法で、年、月、日、時刻や方角を十二支といわれる12の動物で表したもの。毎年大晦日にその矢印を新年の干支の方向に回して縁起の良い方向、恵方（えほう）を示す。ちなみに今年は戌年。
今年の恵方がわかったところで参道を通り、拝殿に向かおう。ここで礼拝を行う。この拝殿左手奥にある飾り山は必ず見てほしい。これは博多の夏の風物詩である祭、博多祇園山笠の期間中、博多人形師により作り上げられ、市内12カ所で展示されるものを常設展示している。そのきらびやかな迫力は見応え十分。山笠についての詳細情報はページ○○にて。
飾り山の脇にある台座には大きな石がいくつも並んでいる。これは以前、卯日相撲（うのひずもう）が盛んに行われ、有名力士たちが力自慢に持ち上げた石を奉納したもの。この台座の前の地面に「試石」と刻まれた石があるので力士たちがどのくらい力持ちかを実際に石をかかえて実感してみるのも面白い。
また境内には推定樹齢1000年といわれる銀杏があり、めでたい席で歌われる「祝いめでた」にも登場する福岡県指定の天然記念物。また、山笠のフィナーレである追い山のスタートを知らせる太鼓は百数十年前からこの樹の下で行われている。
住所：福岡県福岡市博多区上川端町1-41
電話：092-291-2951
拝観自由：4:00～22:00
休：なし
××× 住吉神社 ×××
住吉大神を祀る神社は全国に2129社あるが、その中でも古書で「住吉本社」や「日本第一住吉宮」と記され、住吉の最初の神社と云われており、日本で最も古い神社の一つである。
住吉の神は古代より開運除災や航海安全の神として、漁業関係者等からの信仰が厚く、そのため現代においても「住吉丸」という船が多く見られる。
現在、境内は福岡市街地の中心にあるが、中世の様子が描かれた博多古図では海が現在の陸地まで弓形に入り込み、河口付近の岬に位置していたという。西門の社前にある天竜池（てんりゅういけ）はその河口の名残である。
住吉神社には入口が数カ所あるが、表参道がある西門がおすすめ。本殿に続く参道沿いには樹齢数百年以上の木々があり、都会とは思えぬ自然の息吹を感じられるだろう。石でできた鳥居をくぐり、神門を通ると正面に朱塗りの鮮やかな拝殿がある。拝殿とは祭神が安置されている本殿の前にある礼拝をするための建物のこと。この拝殿の奥にある本殿は筑前国主黒田長政が1623（元和9）年に再建したもの。仏教伝来以前のヒノキの樹皮を利用した曾皮葺きで反りのない独特の屋根が特徴的な住吉造と呼ばれる建築様式である。国の重要文化財に指定されている。この機会に他の寺社との違いも堪能してみよう。
また境内には1938（昭和13）年に建造された能楽殿がある。能はおよそ650年前に生まれた現存最古の古典演劇。能や狂言が演じられる能舞台は屋内にあり、三方吹き抜けで幕がなく、舞台が観客に大きく張り出しているのが特徴。現在も能や狂言、コンサート等が行われているがどのようなイベントにおいても神聖な舞台に上がる際は白足袋を着用するという。夏のイベントでは花などが入った氷柱が観客席である見所（けんしょ）に置かれ、日本の夏の涼み方も風流に楽しめそうだ。
住所：福岡市博多区住吉3-1-51
電話：092-291-2670
拝観自由：6:00～21:００
休：なし
能楽殿：事前予約で見学可
××× コラム×××
○緑茶
福岡南部の八女は高級茶、「八女茶」の産地として全国的にも有名。冷たいものを摂り過ぎるこの季節、せっかくなら産地にもこだわった温かい緑茶をゆっくり頂いて体をリセットしよう。
○ お葬式
東長寺には日本で2番目の大きさの黒田藩主忠之公の墓がある。唐突だが墓や葬式のことって意外に知らないのでは？伊丹十三の初監督作品「お葬式」は初めてお葬式を出す一家をコミカルに描いた秀作で必見。
○ 蕎麦
暑い夏にそばの香りとのどごしがうれしい「ざるそば」は何よりのごちそう。ツウは残ったつゆに「蕎麦湯」を注いで飲むのだが蕎麦湯は栄養価が高いので体がバテ気味な夏にはピッタリ！
○ 人力車
観光利用もできるので人力車に乗って博多を堪能してみよう。予約が基本だが、土日祝は櫛田神社向かいの博多町屋ふるさと館前で客待ちしていることもあるので、気軽に利用してみてはいかが？
住所：福岡市博多区川端町1-32-202
電話：092-263-5720/090-8836-9724
FAX：092-263-5750（24時間）
料金：￥1000（10分間/1人）要 事前予約
○ 楽水園
江戸時代の代表的な様式の日本庭園。四季の緑が美しく、散策が楽しめる。明治時代の茶室も復元され、茶会などで使用されていなければ300円でお抹茶も頂ける。
住所：福岡市博多区住吉2-10-7
電話：092-262-66665
時間：09:00～17:00
休：火曜日（火曜日が祝日の場合、翌日休）
Take the Fukuoka Temple Trek!
Japan’s temples and shrines are must see attractions. Kyoto, Nara, and Kamakura are such well known spots, we often forget the treasures right here in Fukuoka. This month, we introduce three temples and two shrines each boasting fantastic histories, architecture and gardens. With the map on this page and our center map you should be able to see them all in as little as three hours – and get plenty of exercise, too! Take the temple trek!
Temples & Shrines
So what’s the difference between a shrine (-jinja) and a temple (-ji)?
Temple
Temples are almost always associated with Buddhism, the religion originating in India, as opposed to Shrines which are connected to Japan’s very own Shintoism. Temples are places where Buddhist ceremonies take place, such as the ever-popular new year rites, and advice or contemplation is sought on spiritual matters. Buddhist altars tend to be more ornate than their Shinto counterparts, and always contain images or sculptures of the Buddha.
Shrine
A shrine will house a kami (god) of the indigenous, ancient Japanese religion, Shinto. Shinto is concerned with earthly affairs such as success in study, health and wealth, farming, etc, and Japanese people come to the shrine to make an offering to the enshrined god and ask for help or assistance. Many important cultural and familial events take place in Shinto shrines, including blessing newborn children, and Japanese youth’s coming of age day. Shrines are recognizable by the large torii, or gates, that must be passed through when entering.
Kushida-jinja
Legend has it that Kushida Jinja was built in 757, but the shrine could not escape the destruction of the Warring States period and was burned down in 1587. It has since been rebuilt and dedicated as part of Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s city planning project for Hakata. Locals commonly refer to it by the name of O-Kushida-san, and it has long been considered the guardian spirit for all of Hakata. Visitors appeal to the tutelary deity for prosperity in business and a long life. The shrine is located near the Kawabata commercial district, Hakata’s first. After you pass through the torii, you’ll see a two-story gate with large red lanterns directly ahead of you. Make sure to stop inside the gate and look at the ceiling, where you’ll see a Chinese astrological chart. Every year on New Year’s Eve, the arrow pointer is turned to the sign for the upcoming year to show a favorable direction. This year is the year of the dog. After you pass through the gate, the main path leads to the house of worship. This structure is used as the permanent display space for one of the floats used in the Hakata Gion Yamakasa. You’ll be dazzled by its brilliant colors and the workmanship of the traditional Hakata doll makers who built it. For more details on the Yamakasa, refer to page 40. Next to the float there are several large rocks on a platform. These were muscled onto the platform centuries ago by famous sumo rikishi both as an offering and a demonstration of their strength. Just in front of the platform on the ground is the so-called “trial rock,” which the wrestlers would lift to find out just how strong they were. Also on the shrine grounds are a stand of gingko trees estimated to be more than 1,000 years old. They have been designated a natural monument of Fukuoka Prefecture. For more than a century, it has been the site where taiko drummers beat out a rhythm to announce the start of the float race, the closing event of Yamakasa.
Kushida-jinja
1-41 Kamikawabata-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open: Open every day, 04:00 – 22:00
Shofuku-ji
Shofuku-ji was Japan’s first Zen temple. Zen, of course, is the branch of Buddhism that employs sitting meditation to achieve enlightenment. It was brought to Japan by Yosai Zenji, who spent five years studying religion in China. After his return, Yosai built this temple on land given to him by Minamoto no Yoritomo, the founder of the Kamakura Shogunate and the first military ruler of the country. The framed motto on the temple gate was a gift from the Emperor Gotoba. In contemporary language, it means “the first Zen temple.” Now more than 800 years old, Shofuku-ji is known for upholding the teachings of Buddhism, its Zen dojo, and the rigor of its ascetic practices. The temple complex contained seven primary buildings when it was built, and in these were placed three statues of the Buddha. It is also recorded that the grounds held 38 smaller temples. In 1587, Toyotomi Hideyoshi formulated a city plan for Hakata that required temples to slash their land area by 75%. Despite this reduction, the layout of Shofuku-ji’s gate, Buddhist sanctum, and priests’ chambers was maintained in the original Zen style. Therefore, the entire temple grounds were designated a national historical site in 1969. The grounds are also noted for Tsushin Bridge which arches over Musen Pond, and a stand of camphor trees. The site is so quiet and peaceful, it is hard to believe a bustling business district is nearby. A path behind the sanctum leads to Genjyu-an and Sesshin-in before returning to the starting point, providing visitors a chance to take a stroll in a unique atmosphere. Nowadays, tea is commonplace in Japan, but did you know that Yosai Zenji also introduced tea to this country? He brought seeds back with him from China and planted them on the Shofuku-ji grounds. The temple is therefore the origin of all the tea in Japan. Sengai Osho, a former chief priest at Shofuku-ji, produced some remarkable Zen paintings. He is known throughout Japan as Sengai-san of Hakata.
Shofuku-ji
6-1 Gokusho-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 08:00 – 17:00
Tocho-ji
Surrounded by office buildings and located behind a high wall on Taihaku-dori, Tocho-ji seems imposing, but in fact anyone can enter, and it is a popular site for springtime cherry blossom viewing. This temple of the Mikkyo sect was built in 806 by Kobo Daiji. The sect venerates Dainichi Nyorai, one of the forms of the Buddha, and its teachings are said to reveal profound, absolute principles. The Rokkaku-do, a hexagonal-shaped hall, was built in 1842. The roof is hexagonal, but the front of the structure has been widened to facilitate worship, and the foundation is asymmetrical. It’s only open to the public on the 28th of the month, when you’ll get the chance to see the Fukuoka Daibutsu, Japan’s largest wooden statue of the seated Buddha. Built in 1992, it is 10.8 meters high and weighs 30 tons. It was built to that height to use the figure 108, the number of worldly desires according to Buddhism. There is also a tunnel built into the base of the statue, and it is said that passing through it and reaching the other side is like going through Hell to reach Paradise.
Tocho-ji
2-4 Gokusho-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 09:00 – 17:00
Joten-ji
Joten-ji was built in 1242 by the priest Shoichi Kokushi after his return from China, with the help of the merchant Xie Guoming, a naturalized Chinese. The temple complex housed 43 smaller temples during its peak. Now, a road runs between the two precincts. There is a stone monument on the grounds on which is carved the inscription, “birthplace of udon and soba.” Among the souvenirs Shoichi Kokushi brought back from China was a diagram showing how to make flour using a waterwheel. The methods for making udon, soba, and manju using flour ground on a mill spread from here throughout Japan. The temple is also known as the site where the Hakata Gion Yamakasa, Fukuoka’s epic summer festival, originated. Legend has it that during a plague in Hakata in 1241, Shoichi Kokushi was carried around the city on a palanquin offering prayers for an end to the suffering and drove out the evil spirits. The festival floats are now carried around and pass the temple in continuation of this tradition.
Joten-ji
1-29-9 Hakataeki-mae, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 08:00 – 16:00
Sumiyoshi-jinja
Since ancient times, Sumiyoshi-no-Okami has been the divinity protecting the safety of the seas, and has been worshipped by fishermen and others in the maritime industry. Even today, many boats are still christened with the name “Sumiyoshi-maru.” Considering Fukuoka’s importance as a port city, it’s no surprise that of the 2,129 Shinto shrines in Japan with Sumiyoshi-no-Okami as the enshrined deity, Hakata’s own Sumiyoshi Jinja is the oldest. Today, the shrine grounds are located in the heart of Fukuoka City, but maps of Hakata from centuries ago show that the land on which the shrine stands was once actually on a cape near the mouth of the river. Tenryu pond, in front of the shrine’s western gate, was once part of the river mouth. The shrine has several entrances, but we recommend entering by the western gate at the front of the main path. The trees lining the path to the main sanctuary are several hundred years old, creating a peaceful setting that will remove you mentally and spiritually from the bustling city just outside. Pass through the stone torii and continue along the path to the hall of worship with its vivid crimson colors. This hall is where visitors come to pray in front of the main sanctuary where the enshrined deities are placed. The main sanctuary is at the back of the hall of worship. The shrine, designated an important national cultural treasure, is built in a distinctive architectural style that has come to be known as Sumiyoshi-zukuri. The roof is unusual in that the eaves are not curved, and it is made from the bark of cypress trees more than 1,000 years old. A hall for Noh performances was built on the shrine grounds in 1938. The hall has a stage for performances and is unique for being open on three sides. The stage also extends far out into the audience seating area. Noh and concerts are still performed on this stage, but the performers must wear white tabi (traditional Japanese stockings) regardless of the event, owing to the religious nature of the site. The hall has no air conditioning, so columns of ice containing flowers are placed in the audience seating area during summer events to help beat the heat.
Sumiyoshi-jinja
3-1-51 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 06:00 – 21:00
Call 291-2670 in advance to visit the Noh performance hall
Extra Info!
Funeral – The (Japanese) Movie
Funerals in Japan are usually held in Buddhist temples. The film ‘The Funeral’ 1987 (Ososhiki), the first work of Japanese director Juzo Itami, is a black comedy depicting a family who holds its first funeral and the people who attend. We recommend it for an insightful and hilarious glimpse into Japanese-style funerals. A must see for all japanophiles!
Green tea
When people mention tea in Japan, they mean green tea, which has a long history as part of the daily life of the people. The Yame area in southern Fukuoka Prefecture is nationally famous as a production area for high quality tea. It’s convenient to drink green tea from bottles or brewed from tea bags, but best to use the tea leaves and traditional utensils to brew it from scratch and experience the true taste of Japan.
Jinrikishas (rickshaw)
Just like in the movies it’s still possible to travel by rickshaw here, but you’ll need a reservation. On Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays they’re easy to hire in front of the Hakatamachiya Furusatokan without a booking, where they’ll whisk you away to the Kushida Shrine or other tourist spots.
Address: 1-32-202 Kawabata-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka City
Telephone: 263-5720 / 090-8836-9724
Fax: 263-5750 (24 hours)
Fees: 1,000 yen per person for 10 minutes
Reservations required a day in advance
Rakusui-en
Rakusui-en is a traditional Japanese garden that dates from the Edo period. Its seasonal foliage and waterfall make it an enjoyable place for a stroll in any season. There is a restored Meiji-era tea house on the premises, where you can enjoy a cup of maccha (green tea) for ＼300.
Address: 2-10-7 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka （以下トル：City）
Telephone: 262-6665
Hours: 09:00 – 17:00
Closed on Tuesdays
If Tuesday is a holiday, the garden will be closed the following day.
Admission: 100 yen
Soba
You’re in for a treat if you try zarusoba (chilled buckwheat noodles), whose aroma and consistency are perfect to savor in summer. The cold soba noodles are dipped into sauce and eaten. When they finish, aficionados pour the hot water used to boil the noodles into the remaining sauce and drink it. It’s an excellent pick-me-up if you’ve wilted in the summer heat.
Take the Fukuoka Temple Trek!
Japan’s temples and shrines are must see attractions. Kyoto, Nara, and Kamakura are such well known spots, we often forget the treasures right here in Fukuoka. This month, we introduce three temples and two shrines each boasting fantastic histories, architecture and gardens. With the map on this page and our center map you should be able to see them all in as little as three hours – and get plenty of exercise, too! Take the temple trek!
Temples & Shrines
So what’s the difference between a shrine (-jinja) and a temple (-ji)?
Temple
Temples are almost always associated with Buddhism, the religion originating in India, as opposed to Shrines which are connected to Japan’s very own Shintoism. Temples are places where Buddhist ceremonies take place, such as the ever-popular new year rites, and advice or contemplation is sought on spiritual matters. Buddhist altars tend to be more ornate than their Shinto counterparts, and always contain images or sculptures of the Buddha.
Shrine
A shrine will house a kami (god) of the indigenous, ancient Japanese religion, Shinto. Shinto is concerned with earthly affairs such as success in study, health and wealth, farming, etc, and Japanese people come to the shrine to make an offering to the enshrined god and ask for help or assistance. Many important cultural and familial events take place in Shinto shrines, including blessing newborn children, and Japanese youth’s coming of age day. Shrines are recognizable by the large torii, or gates, that must be passed through when entering.
Kushida-jinja
Legend has it that Kushida Jinja was built in 757, but the shrine could not escape the destruction of the Warring States period and was burned down in 1587. It has since been rebuilt and dedicated as part of Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s city planning project for Hakata. Locals commonly refer to it by the name of O-Kushida-san, and it has long been considered the guardian spirit for all of Hakata. Visitors appeal to the tutelary deity for prosperity in business and a long life. The shrine is located near the Kawabata commercial district, Hakata’s first. After you pass through the torii, you’ll see a two-story gate with large red lanterns directly ahead of you. Make sure to stop inside the gate and look at the ceiling, where you’ll see a Chinese astrological chart. Every year on New Year’s Eve, the arrow pointer is turned to the sign for the upcoming year to show a favorable direction. This year is the year of the dog. After you pass through the gate, the main path leads to the house of worship. This structure is used as the permanent display space for one of the floats used in the Hakata Gion Yamakasa. You’ll be dazzled by its brilliant colors and the workmanship of the traditional Hakata doll makers who built it. For more details on the Yamakasa, refer to page 40. Next to the float there are several large rocks on a platform. These were muscled onto the platform centuries ago by famous sumo rikishi both as an offering and a demonstration of their strength. Just in front of the platform on the ground is the so-called “trial rock,” which the wrestlers would lift to find out just how strong they were. Also on the shrine grounds are a stand of gingko trees estimated to be more than 1,000 years old. They have been designated a natural monument of Fukuoka Prefecture. For more than a century, it has been the site where taiko drummers beat out a rhythm to announce the start of the float race, the closing event of Yamakasa.
Kushida-jinja
1-41 Kamikawabata-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open: Open every day, 04:00 – 22:00
Shofuku-ji
Shofuku-ji was Japan’s first Zen temple. Zen, of course, is the branch of Buddhism that employs sitting meditation to achieve enlightenment. It was brought to Japan by Yosai Zenji, who spent five years studying religion in China. After his return, Yosai built this temple on land given to him by Minamoto no Yoritomo, the founder of the Kamakura Shogunate and the first military ruler of the country. The framed motto on the temple gate was a gift from the Emperor Gotoba. In contemporary language, it means “the first Zen temple.” Now more than 800 years old, Shofuku-ji is known for upholding the teachings of Buddhism, its Zen dojo, and the rigor of its ascetic practices. The temple complex contained seven primary buildings when it was built, and in these were placed three statues of the Buddha. It is also recorded that the grounds held 38 smaller temples. In 1587, Toyotomi Hideyoshi formulated a city plan for Hakata that required temples to slash their land area by 75%. Despite this reduction, the layout of Shofuku-ji’s gate, Buddhist sanctum, and priests’ chambers was maintained in the original Zen style. Therefore, the entire temple grounds were designated a national historical site in 1969. The grounds are also noted for Tsushin Bridge which arches over Musen Pond, and a stand of camphor trees. The site is so quiet and peaceful, it is hard to believe a bustling business district is nearby. A path behind the sanctum leads to Genjyu-an and Sesshin-in before returning to the starting point, providing visitors a chance to take a stroll in a unique atmosphere. Nowadays, tea is commonplace in Japan, but did you know that Yosai Zenji also introduced tea to this country? He brought seeds back with him from China and planted them on the Shofuku-ji grounds. The temple is therefore the origin of all the tea in Japan. Sengai Osho, a former chief priest at Shofuku-ji, produced some remarkable Zen paintings. He is known throughout Japan as Sengai-san of Hakata.
Shofuku-ji
6-1 Gokusho-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 08:00 – 17:00
Tocho-ji
Surrounded by office buildings and located behind a high wall on Taihaku-dori, Tocho-ji seems imposing, but in fact anyone can enter, and it is a popular site for springtime cherry blossom viewing. This temple of the Mikkyo sect was built in 806 by Kobo Daiji. The sect venerates Dainichi Nyorai, one of the forms of the Buddha, and its teachings are said to reveal profound, absolute principles. The Rokkaku-do, a hexagonal-shaped hall, was built in 1842. The roof is hexagonal, but the front of the structure has been widened to facilitate worship, and the foundation is asymmetrical. It’s only open to the public on the 28th of the month, when you’ll get the chance to see the Fukuoka Daibutsu, Japan’s largest wooden statue of the seated Buddha. Built in 1992, it is 10.8 meters high and weighs 30 tons. It was built to that height to use the figure 108, the number of worldly desires according to Buddhism. There is also a tunnel built into the base of the statue, and it is said that passing through it and reaching the other side is like going through Hell to reach Paradise.
Tocho-ji
2-4 Gokusho-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 09:00 – 17:00
Joten-ji
Joten-ji was built in 1242 by the priest Shoichi Kokushi after his return from China, with the help of the merchant Xie Guoming, a naturalized Chinese. The temple complex housed 43 smaller temples during its peak. Now, a road runs between the two precincts. There is a stone monument on the grounds on which is carved the inscription, “birthplace of udon and soba.” Among the souvenirs Shoichi Kokushi brought back from China was a diagram showing how to make flour using a waterwheel. The methods for making udon, soba, and manju using flour ground on a mill spread from here throughout Japan. The temple is also known as the site where the Hakata Gion Yamakasa, Fukuoka’s epic summer festival, originated. Legend has it that during a plague in Hakata in 1241, Shoichi Kokushi was carried around the city on a palanquin offering prayers for an end to the suffering and drove out the evil spirits. The festival floats are now carried around and pass the temple in continuation of this tradition.
Joten-ji
1-29-9 Hakataeki-mae, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 08:00 – 16:00
Sumiyoshi-jinja
Since ancient times, Sumiyoshi-no-Okami has been the divinity protecting the safety of the seas, and has been worshipped by fishermen and others in the maritime industry. Even today, many boats are still christened with the name “Sumiyoshi-maru.” Considering Fukuoka’s importance as a port city, it’s no surprise that of the 2,129 Shinto shrines in Japan with Sumiyoshi-no-Okami as the enshrined deity, Hakata’s own Sumiyoshi Jinja is the oldest. Today, the shrine grounds are located in the heart of Fukuoka City, but maps of Hakata from centuries ago show that the land on which the shrine stands was once actually on a cape near the mouth of the river. Tenryu pond, in front of the shrine’s western gate, was once part of the river mouth. The shrine has several entrances, but we recommend entering by the western gate at the front of the main path. The trees lining the path to the main sanctuary are several hundred years old, creating a peaceful setting that will remove you mentally and spiritually from the bustling city just outside. Pass through the stone torii and continue along the path to the hall of worship with its vivid crimson colors. This hall is where visitors come to pray in front of the main sanctuary where the enshrined deities are placed. The main sanctuary is at the back of the hall of worship. The shrine, designated an important national cultural treasure, is built in a distinctive architectural style that has come to be known as Sumiyoshi-zukuri. The roof is unusual in that the eaves are not curved, and it is made from the bark of cypress trees more than 1,000 years old. A hall for Noh performances was built on the shrine grounds in 1938. The hall has a stage for performances and is unique for being open on three sides. The stage also extends far out into the audience seating area. Noh and concerts are still performed on this stage, but the performers must wear white tabi (traditional Japanese stockings) regardless of the event, owing to the religious nature of the site. The hall has no air conditioning, so columns of ice containing flowers are placed in the audience seating area during summer events to help beat the heat.
Sumiyoshi-jinja
3-1-51 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 06:00 – 21:00
Call 291-2670 in advance to visit the Noh performance hall
Extra Info!
Funeral – The (Japanese) Movie
Funerals in Japan are usually held in Buddhist temples. The film ‘The Funeral’ 1987 (Ososhiki), the first work of Japanese director Juzo Itami, is a black comedy depicting a family who holds its first funeral and the people who attend. We recommend it for an insightful and hilarious glimpse into Japanese-style funerals. A must see for all japanophiles!
Green tea
When people mention tea in Japan, they mean green tea, which has a long history as part of the daily life of the people. The Yame area in southern Fukuoka Prefecture is nationally famous as a production area for high quality tea. It’s convenient to drink green tea from bottles or brewed from tea bags, but best to use the tea leaves and traditional utensils to brew it from scratch and experience the true taste of Japan.
Jinrikishas (rickshaw)
Just like in the movies it’s still possible to travel by rickshaw here, but you’ll need a reservation. On Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays they’re easy to hire in front of the Hakatamachiya Furusatokan without a booking, where they’ll whisk you away to the Kushida Shrine or other tourist spots.
Address: 1-32-202 Kawabata-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka City
Telephone: 263-5720 / 090-8836-9724
Fax: 263-5750 (24 hours)
Fees: 1,000 yen per person for 10 minutes
Reservations required a day in advance
Rakusui-en
Rakusui-en is a traditional Japanese garden that dates from the Edo period. Its seasonal foliage and waterfall make it an enjoyable place for a stroll in any season. There is a restored Meiji-era tea house on the premises, where you can enjoy a cup of maccha (green tea) for ＼300.
Address: 2-10-7 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka （以下トル：City）
Telephone: 262-6665
Hours: 09:00 – 17:00
Closed on Tuesdays
If Tuesday is a holiday, the garden will be closed the following day.
Admission: 100 yen
Soba
You’re in for a treat if you try zarusoba (chilled buckwheat noodles), whose aroma and consistency are perfect to savor in summer. The cold soba noodles are dipped into sauce and eaten. When they finish, aficionados pour the hot water used to boil the noodles into the remaining sauce and drink it. It’s an excellent pick-me-up if you’ve wilted in the summer heat.
Take the Fukuoka Temple Trek!
Japan’s temples and shrines are must see attractions. Kyoto, Nara, and Kamakura are such well known spots, we often forget the treasures right here in Fukuoka. This month, we introduce three temples and two shrines each boasting fantastic histories, architecture and gardens. With the map on this page and our center map you should be able to see them all in as little as three hours – and get plenty of exercise, too! Take the temple trek!
Temples & Shrines
So what’s the difference between a shrine (-jinja) and a temple (-ji)?
Temple
Temples are almost always associated with Buddhism, the religion originating in India, as opposed to Shrines which are connected to Japan’s very own Shintoism. Temples are places where Buddhist ceremonies take place, such as the ever-popular new year rites, and advice or contemplation is sought on spiritual matters. Buddhist altars tend to be more ornate than their Shinto counterparts, and always contain images or sculptures of the Buddha.
Shrine
A shrine will house a kami (god) of the indigenous, ancient Japanese religion, Shinto. Shinto is concerned with earthly affairs such as success in study, health and wealth, farming, etc, and Japanese people come to the shrine to make an offering to the enshrined god and ask for help or assistance. Many important cultural and familial events take place in Shinto shrines, including blessing newborn children, and Japanese youth’s coming of age day. Shrines are recognizable by the large torii, or gates, that must be passed through when entering.
Kushida-jinja
Legend has it that Kushida Jinja was built in 757, but the shrine could not escape the destruction of the Warring States period and was burned down in 1587. It has since been rebuilt and dedicated as part of Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s city planning project for Hakata. Locals commonly refer to it by the name of O-Kushida-san, and it has long been considered the guardian spirit for all of Hakata. Visitors appeal to the tutelary deity for prosperity in business and a long life. The shrine is located near the Kawabata commercial district, Hakata’s first. After you pass through the torii, you’ll see a two-story gate with large red lanterns directly ahead of you. Make sure to stop inside the gate and look at the ceiling, where you’ll see a Chinese astrological chart. Every year on New Year’s Eve, the arrow pointer is turned to the sign for the upcoming year to show a favorable direction. This year is the year of the dog. After you pass through the gate, the main path leads to the house of worship. This structure is used as the permanent display space for one of the floats used in the Hakata Gion Yamakasa. You’ll be dazzled by its brilliant colors and the workmanship of the traditional Hakata doll makers who built it. For more details on the Yamakasa, refer to page 40. Next to the float there are several large rocks on a platform. These were muscled onto the platform centuries ago by famous sumo rikishi both as an offering and a demonstration of their strength. Just in front of the platform on the ground is the so-called “trial rock,” which the wrestlers would lift to find out just how strong they were. Also on the shrine grounds are a stand of gingko trees estimated to be more than 1,000 years old. They have been designated a natural monument of Fukuoka Prefecture. For more than a century, it has been the site where taiko drummers beat out a rhythm to announce the start of the float race, the closing event of Yamakasa.
Kushida-jinja
1-41 Kamikawabata-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open: Open every day, 04:00 – 22:00
Shofuku-ji
Shofuku-ji was Japan’s first Zen temple. Zen, of course, is the branch of Buddhism that employs sitting meditation to achieve enlightenment. It was brought to Japan by Yosai Zenji, who spent five years studying religion in China. After his return, Yosai built this temple on land given to him by Minamoto no Yoritomo, the founder of the Kamakura Shogunate and the first military ruler of the country. The framed motto on the temple gate was a gift from the Emperor Gotoba. In contemporary language, it means “the first Zen temple.” Now more than 800 years old, Shofuku-ji is known for upholding the teachings of Buddhism, its Zen dojo, and the rigor of its ascetic practices. The temple complex contained seven primary buildings when it was built, and in these were placed three statues of the Buddha. It is also recorded that the grounds held 38 smaller temples. In 1587, Toyotomi Hideyoshi formulated a city plan for Hakata that required temples to slash their land area by 75%. Despite this reduction, the layout of Shofuku-ji’s gate, Buddhist sanctum, and priests’ chambers was maintained in the original Zen style. Therefore, the entire temple grounds were designated a national historical site in 1969. The grounds are also noted for Tsushin Bridge which arches over Musen Pond, and a stand of camphor trees. The site is so quiet and peaceful, it is hard to believe a bustling business district is nearby. A path behind the sanctum leads to Genjyu-an and Sesshin-in before returning to the starting point, providing visitors a chance to take a stroll in a unique atmosphere. Nowadays, tea is commonplace in Japan, but did you know that Yosai Zenji also introduced tea to this country? He brought seeds back with him from China and planted them on the Shofuku-ji grounds. The temple is therefore the origin of all the tea in Japan. Sengai Osho, a former chief priest at Shofuku-ji, produced some remarkable Zen paintings. He is known throughout Japan as Sengai-san of Hakata.
Shofuku-ji
6-1 Gokusho-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 08:00 – 17:00
Tocho-ji
Surrounded by office buildings and located behind a high wall on Taihaku-dori, Tocho-ji seems imposing, but in fact anyone can enter, and it is a popular site for springtime cherry blossom viewing. This temple of the Mikkyo sect was built in 806 by Kobo Daiji. The sect venerates Dainichi Nyorai, one of the forms of the Buddha, and its teachings are said to reveal profound, absolute principles. The Rokkaku-do, a hexagonal-shaped hall, was built in 1842. The roof is hexagonal, but the front of the structure has been widened to facilitate worship, and the foundation is asymmetrical. It’s only open to the public on the 28th of the month, when you’ll get the chance to see the Fukuoka Daibutsu, Japan’s largest wooden statue of the seated Buddha. Built in 1992, it is 10.8 meters high and weighs 30 tons. It was built to that height to use the figure 108, the number of worldly desires according to Buddhism. There is also a tunnel built into the base of the statue, and it is said that passing through it and reaching the other side is like going through Hell to reach Paradise.
Tocho-ji
2-4 Gokusho-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 09:00 – 17:00
Joten-ji
Joten-ji was built in 1242 by the priest Shoichi Kokushi after his return from China, with the help of the merchant Xie Guoming, a naturalized Chinese. The temple complex housed 43 smaller temples during its peak. Now, a road runs between the two precincts. There is a stone monument on the grounds on which is carved the inscription, “birthplace of udon and soba.” Among the souvenirs Shoichi Kokushi brought back from China was a diagram showing how to make flour using a waterwheel. The methods for making udon, soba, and manju using flour ground on a mill spread from here throughout Japan. The temple is also known as the site where the Hakata Gion Yamakasa, Fukuoka’s epic summer festival, originated. Legend has it that during a plague in Hakata in 1241, Shoichi Kokushi was carried around the city on a palanquin offering prayers for an end to the suffering and drove out the evil spirits. The festival floats are now carried around and pass the temple in continuation of this tradition.
Joten-ji
1-29-9 Hakataeki-mae, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 08:00 – 16:00
Sumiyoshi-jinja
Since ancient times, Sumiyoshi-no-Okami has been the divinity protecting the safety of the seas, and has been worshipped by fishermen and others in the maritime industry. Even today, many boats are still christened with the name “Sumiyoshi-maru.” Considering Fukuoka’s importance as a port city, it’s no surprise that of the 2,129 Shinto shrines in Japan with Sumiyoshi-no-Okami as the enshrined deity, Hakata’s own Sumiyoshi Jinja is the oldest. Today, the shrine grounds are located in the heart of Fukuoka City, but maps of Hakata from centuries ago show that the land on which the shrine stands was once actually on a cape near the mouth of the river. Tenryu pond, in front of the shrine’s western gate, was once part of the river mouth. The shrine has several entrances, but we recommend entering by the western gate at the front of the main path. The trees lining the path to the main sanctuary are several hundred years old, creating a peaceful setting that will remove you mentally and spiritually from the bustling city just outside. Pass through the stone torii and continue along the path to the hall of worship with its vivid crimson colors. This hall is where visitors come to pray in front of the main sanctuary where the enshrined deities are placed. The main sanctuary is at the back of the hall of worship. The shrine, designated an important national cultural treasure, is built in a distinctive architectural style that has come to be known as Sumiyoshi-zukuri. The roof is unusual in that the eaves are not curved, and it is made from the bark of cypress trees more than 1,000 years old. A hall for Noh performances was built on the shrine grounds in 1938. The hall has a stage for performances and is unique for being open on three sides. The stage also extends far out into the audience seating area. Noh and concerts are still performed on this stage, but the performers must wear white tabi (traditional Japanese stockings) regardless of the event, owing to the religious nature of the site. The hall has no air conditioning, so columns of ice containing flowers are placed in the audience seating area during summer events to help beat the heat.
Sumiyoshi-jinja
3-1-51 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 06:00 – 21:00
Call 291-2670 in advance to visit the Noh performance hall
Extra Info!
Funeral – The (Japanese) Movie
Funerals in Japan are usually held in Buddhist temples. The film ‘The Funeral’ 1987 (Ososhiki), the first work of Japanese director Juzo Itami, is a black comedy depicting a family who holds its first funeral and the people who attend. We recommend it for an insightful and hilarious glimpse into Japanese-style funerals. A must see for all japanophiles!
Green tea
When people mention tea in Japan, they mean green tea, which has a long history as part of the daily life of the people. The Yame area in southern Fukuoka Prefecture is nationally famous as a production area for high quality tea. It’s convenient to drink green tea from bottles or brewed from tea bags, but best to use the tea leaves and traditional utensils to brew it from scratch and experience the true taste of Japan.
Jinrikishas (rickshaw)
Just like in the movies it’s still possible to travel by rickshaw here, but you’ll need a reservation. On Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays they’re easy to hire in front of the Hakatamachiya Furusatokan without a booking, where they’ll whisk you away to the Kushida Shrine or other tourist spots.
Address: 1-32-202 Kawabata-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka City
Telephone: 263-5720 / 090-8836-9724
Fax: 263-5750 (24 hours)
Fees: 1,000 yen per person for 10 minutes
Reservations required a day in advance
Rakusui-en
Rakusui-en is a traditional Japanese garden that dates from the Edo period. Its seasonal foliage and waterfall make it an enjoyable place for a stroll in any season. There is a restored Meiji-era tea house on the premises, where you can enjoy a cup of maccha (green tea) for ＼300.
Address: 2-10-7 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka （以下トル：City）
Telephone: 262-6665
Hours: 09:00 – 17:00
Closed on Tuesdays
If Tuesday is a holiday, the garden will be closed the following day.
Admission: 100 yen
Soba
You’re in for a treat if you try zarusoba (chilled buckwheat noodles), whose aroma and consistency are perfect to savor in summer. The cold soba noodles are dipped into sauce and eaten. When they finish, aficionados pour the hot water used to boil the noodles into the remaining sauce and drink it. It’s an excellent pick-me-up if you’ve wilted in the summer heat.
素通りしたらもったいない！福岡のスゴイ神社仏閣に行ってみよう！
福岡の街は半径約1kmの中身がギュッと詰まったコンパクトシティ。ビジネスからショッピングまで何でも楽しめるけど、古くから大陸と交流があっただけあって、京都や奈良に負けない由緒あるお寺や神社、日本庭園まであるって知ってた？今回紹介する５つのお寺と神社は歴史、建物、雰囲気のどれをとっても一度は訪れておきたいトコばかり。３～4時間で回れるようにルートを設定しているので、一人で散策を楽しむのもよし、しっとりデートや外国人を案内するのに最適コース。ここは騙されたと思って行ってみるべし！福岡の見方が変わるハズ！
しかし、せっかく足を運ぶならお寺と神社の違いだけは押えたい。お寺は仏教の儀式を執り行う場所。その肝心の仏教については起源は紀元前5世紀頃、釈迦が現在のインドで人間の苦悩の解決の道を説いて各地に広まったことによる。福岡に縁が深い仏教の一派、禅宗は中国から伝わったとされ、インド出身のだるまが6世紀初めに中国各地で禅を広めたという。
そして神社は神道の神々を祀る場所。日本人ははるか昔より森羅万象あらゆるものに神を見いだしてきた。神道は、このように複数の神を信仰する、日本固有の宗教といえる。
×××聖福寺（しょうふくじ）×××
日本最初の禅寺である聖福寺。禅宗とは坐禅を中心とした修行により「悟り」が体得される仏教の一派のこと。この禅宗を日本で最初に伝えたのが日本禅宗の始祖・栄西禅師(ようさいぜんじ)。宋（中国）で5年間修行した後、1195（建久5）年に鎌倉幕府初代将軍であり、武家政治の創始者となった、源頼朝よりこの地を賜り創建に至る。また山門楼上に掲げてある扁額（へんがく） 「扶桑最初禅窟」（ふそうさいしょのぜんくつ）の文字は鎌倉時代に三代にわたって院政を執った後鳥羽上皇により賜る。「扶桑」は日本、「最初禅窟」は初めての禅宗寺院という意。開創より800余年、現在も禅の教えは護られており、禅の専門道場、そして厳しい修行の場として知られている。
創建当初、七堂伽藍（しちどうがらん）の仏殿には釈迦・弥勒・弥陀の三世仏が安置され、境内の山内寺院も38院を数えたという。
1587年に豊臣秀吉が行った都市計画、「太閤町割」（たいこうまちわり）により境内は四分の一に狭まったが今なお山門、仏殿（ぶつでん）、方丈（ほうじょう）などの堂塔の配置形式が禅宗様式の七堂伽藍のまま、よく保存されているため、1969（昭和44）年に境内全体が国の史跡に指定された。
境内には無染池（むせんいけ）にかかる通津橋や緑繁る楠の木立があるなど、ビジネス街のすぐ近くとは思えないほど静かな趣きがある。仏殿裏手にある参道は幻住庵（げんじゅあん）から節信院（せっしんいん）と続き、最後には元の仏殿に戻れるので風情ある散策を楽しむのもいい。
今では日本で日常的に飲まれているお茶。実はこの「茶」を初めて日本にもたらしたのも栄西禅師。宋から茶を持ち帰り、茶種を境内などに植え、今日では茶処として名高い京都の宇治など日本各地に広めたという。
また、歴代高僧で有名なのが仙がい和尚。「博多の仙がいさん」として親しまれている。
住所：福岡市博多区御供所町6-1
電話：092-291-0775
境内自由：8:00～17:００
休：なし
××× 東長寺 ×××
オフィスビルが立ち並ぶ、大博通沿いに高い塀が続く東長寺。敷居が高いかと思いきや、春には花見のために訪れる人なども多く、気軽に立ち寄れる存在なのだ。実は広く名を知られた弘法大師空海が806（大同元）（だいどう・がん）年に創建した密教寺院。密教とは仏教の一派で、大日如来を本尊とする奥深い絶対真理の教えをいう。
形が珍しい六角堂は1842（天保13）年の建造。屋根は正六角形だが正面は礼拝のために広くし、下層部分は変形の六角形構造。中には六体の仏像が安置されている。
毎月28日のみの公開だが、木造坐像としては日本最大の福岡大仏も見ておきたい。1992（平成４）年 に建立され、高さ10.8メートル、重さ30トン。大仏の高さは仏教での煩悩の数である108になぞらえてある。大仏の台座の中にある「地獄・極楽めぐり」もぜひ体験を。中は真っ暗なトンネル状になっており、出た時に極楽の気分が味わえること請け合いだ。
住所：福岡市博多区御供所町2-4
電話：092-291-4459
拝観自由：9:00～17:00
休：なし
××× 承天寺 ×××
宋の帰化人で貿易商の謝国明（しゃこくめい）が宋（中国）から帰国した聖一国師（しょういちこくし）を助けて1242（仁治3）（にんじ・３）年に建てた寺。隆盛期には４３もの小寺院があった。
境内には「饂飩蕎麦発祥之地」（うどんそばはっしょうのち）と刻まれた石碑がある。聖一国師は宋から水車を使った製粉技術を記した「水磨の図」（すいまのず）を持ち帰り、この挽き臼技術による粉を使ったうどん、蕎麦、饅頭などの製法を日本各地に広めたという。
また勇壮な夏祭、博多祇園山笠の発祥の地としても知られている。1241（仁治2）年に博多で疫病が流行した時、 聖一国師が施餓鬼棚（せがきだな）に乗り、それを棒で担がせ、祈祷して廻って病魔を退散させたという。今日でも門前に清道を設けて山笠がめぐるのはそのいわれによるものだと伝えられている。
住所：福岡市博多区博多駅前1-29-9
電話：092-431-3570
境内自由：8:00～16:００
休：なし
××× 櫛田神社 ×××
社伝によると757（天平宝字元）（てんぴょうほうじ・がん）年創建。戦国時代には戦火を免れず、一時荒廃したが1587（天正15）年に豊臣秀吉の都市計画、「博多町割」の際に社殿を建立、寄進された。
古くから博多の総鎮守（そうちんじゅ）として、「お櫛田さん」の名で地元の人々に親しまれてきた。商売繁盛、不老長寿の神としても信仰を集めている。
櫛田神社は博多で最初に栄えた商業の町、川端商店街のすぐ近くにある。鳥居をくぐると、正面に大きな赤い提灯がさがった 楼門がある。この楼門を通ると参道、拝殿があるわけだが、このまま進むのはもったいない。楼門の中に入ったら立ち止まってぜひ天井を見上げて欲しい。えと恵方盤があるのだ。「えと」とは暦法で、年、月、日、時刻や方角を十二支といわれる12の動物で表したもの。毎年大晦日にその矢印を新年の干支の方向に回して縁起の良い方向、恵方（えほう）を示す。ちなみに今年は戌年。
今年の恵方がわかったところで参道を通り、拝殿に向かおう。ここで礼拝を行う。この拝殿左手奥にある飾り山は必ず見てほしい。これは博多の夏の風物詩である祭、博多祇園山笠の期間中、博多人形師により作り上げられ、市内12カ所で展示されるものを常設展示している。そのきらびやかな迫力は見応え十分。山笠についての詳細情報はページ○○にて。
飾り山の脇にある台座には大きな石がいくつも並んでいる。これは以前、卯日相撲（うのひずもう）が盛んに行われ、有名力士たちが力自慢に持ち上げた石を奉納したもの。この台座の前の地面に「試石」と刻まれた石があるので力士たちがどのくらい力持ちかを実際に石をかかえて実感してみるのも面白い。
また境内には推定樹齢1000年といわれる銀杏があり、めでたい席で歌われる「祝いめでた」にも登場する福岡県指定の天然記念物。また、山笠のフィナーレである追い山のスタートを知らせる太鼓は百数十年前からこの樹の下で行われている。
住所：福岡県福岡市博多区上川端町1-41
電話：092-291-2951
拝観自由：4:00～22:00
休：なし
××× 住吉神社 ×××
住吉大神を祀る神社は全国に2129社あるが、その中でも古書で「住吉本社」や「日本第一住吉宮」と記され、住吉の最初の神社と云われており、日本で最も古い神社の一つである。
住吉の神は古代より開運除災や航海安全の神として、漁業関係者等からの信仰が厚く、そのため現代においても「住吉丸」という船が多く見られる。
現在、境内は福岡市街地の中心にあるが、中世の様子が描かれた博多古図では海が現在の陸地まで弓形に入り込み、河口付近の岬に位置していたという。西門の社前にある天竜池（てんりゅういけ）はその河口の名残である。
住吉神社には入口が数カ所あるが、表参道がある西門がおすすめ。本殿に続く参道沿いには樹齢数百年以上の木々があり、都会とは思えぬ自然の息吹を感じられるだろう。石でできた鳥居をくぐり、神門を通ると正面に朱塗りの鮮やかな拝殿がある。拝殿とは祭神が安置されている本殿の前にある礼拝をするための建物のこと。この拝殿の奥にある本殿は筑前国主黒田長政が1623（元和9）年に再建したもの。仏教伝来以前のヒノキの樹皮を利用した曾皮葺きで反りのない独特の屋根が特徴的な住吉造と呼ばれる建築様式である。国の重要文化財に指定されている。この機会に他の寺社との違いも堪能してみよう。
また境内には1938（昭和13）年に建造された能楽殿がある。能はおよそ650年前に生まれた現存最古の古典演劇。能や狂言が演じられる能舞台は屋内にあり、三方吹き抜けで幕がなく、舞台が観客に大きく張り出しているのが特徴。現在も能や狂言、コンサート等が行われているがどのようなイベントにおいても神聖な舞台に上がる際は白足袋を着用するという。夏のイベントでは花などが入った氷柱が観客席である見所（けんしょ）に置かれ、日本の夏の涼み方も風流に楽しめそうだ。
住所：福岡市博多区住吉3-1-51
電話：092-291-2670
拝観自由：6:00～21:００
休：なし
能楽殿：事前予約で見学可
××× コラム×××
○緑茶
福岡南部の八女は高級茶、「八女茶」の産地として全国的にも有名。冷たいものを摂り過ぎるこの季節、せっかくなら産地にもこだわった温かい緑茶をゆっくり頂いて体をリセットしよう。
○ お葬式
東長寺には日本で2番目の大きさの黒田藩主忠之公の墓がある。唐突だが墓や葬式のことって意外に知らないのでは？伊丹十三の初監督作品「お葬式」は初めてお葬式を出す一家をコミカルに描いた秀作で必見。
○ 蕎麦
暑い夏にそばの香りとのどごしがうれしい「ざるそば」は何よりのごちそう。ツウは残ったつゆに「蕎麦湯」を注いで飲むのだが蕎麦湯は栄養価が高いので体がバテ気味な夏にはピッタリ！
○ 人力車
観光利用もできるので人力車に乗って博多を堪能してみよう。予約が基本だが、土日祝は櫛田神社向かいの博多町屋ふるさと館前で客待ちしていることもあるので、気軽に利用してみてはいかが？
住所：福岡市博多区川端町1-32-202
電話：092-263-5720/090-8836-9724
FAX：092-263-5750（24時間）
料金：￥1000（10分間/1人）要 事前予約
○ 楽水園
江戸時代の代表的な様式の日本庭園。四季の緑が美しく、散策が楽しめる。明治時代の茶室も復元され、茶会などで使用されていなければ300円でお抹茶も頂ける。
住所：福岡市博多区住吉2-10-7
電話：092-262-66665
時間：09:00～17:00
休：火曜日（火曜日が祝日の場合、翌日休）
Take the Fukuoka Temple Trek!
Japan’s temples and shrines are must see attractions. Kyoto, Nara, and Kamakura are such well known spots, we often forget the treasures right here in Fukuoka. This month, we introduce three temples and two shrines each boasting fantastic histories, architecture and gardens. With the map on this page and our center map you should be able to see them all in as little as three hours – and get plenty of exercise, too! Take the temple trek!
Temples & Shrines
So what’s the difference between a shrine (-jinja) and a temple (-ji)?
Temple
Temples are almost always associated with Buddhism, the religion originating in India, as opposed to Shrines which are connected to Japan’s very own Shintoism. Temples are places where Buddhist ceremonies take place, such as the ever-popular new year rites, and advice or contemplation is sought on spiritual matters. Buddhist altars tend to be more ornate than their Shinto counterparts, and always contain images or sculptures of the Buddha.
Shrine
A shrine will house a kami (god) of the indigenous, ancient Japanese religion, Shinto. Shinto is concerned with earthly affairs such as success in study, health and wealth, farming, etc, and Japanese people come to the shrine to make an offering to the enshrined god and ask for help or assistance. Many important cultural and familial events take place in Shinto shrines, including blessing newborn children, and Japanese youth’s coming of age day. Shrines are recognizable by the large torii, or gates, that must be passed through when entering.
Kushida-jinja
Legend has it that Kushida Jinja was built in 757, but the shrine could not escape the destruction of the Warring States period and was burned down in 1587. It has since been rebuilt and dedicated as part of Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s city planning project for Hakata. Locals commonly refer to it by the name of O-Kushida-san, and it has long been considered the guardian spirit for all of Hakata. Visitors appeal to the tutelary deity for prosperity in business and a long life. The shrine is located near the Kawabata commercial district, Hakata’s first. After you pass through the torii, you’ll see a two-story gate with large red lanterns directly ahead of you. Make sure to stop inside the gate and look at the ceiling, where you’ll see a Chinese astrological chart. Every year on New Year’s Eve, the arrow pointer is turned to the sign for the upcoming year to show a favorable direction. This year is the year of the dog. After you pass through the gate, the main path leads to the house of worship. This structure is used as the permanent display space for one of the floats used in the Hakata Gion Yamakasa. You’ll be dazzled by its brilliant colors and the workmanship of the traditional Hakata doll makers who built it. For more details on the Yamakasa, refer to page 40. Next to the float there are several large rocks on a platform. These were muscled onto the platform centuries ago by famous sumo rikishi both as an offering and a demonstration of their strength. Just in front of the platform on the ground is the so-called “trial rock,” which the wrestlers would lift to find out just how strong they were. Also on the shrine grounds are a stand of gingko trees estimated to be more than 1,000 years old. They have been designated a natural monument of Fukuoka Prefecture. For more than a century, it has been the site where taiko drummers beat out a rhythm to announce the start of the float race, the closing event of Yamakasa.
Kushida-jinja
1-41 Kamikawabata-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open: Open every day, 04:00 – 22:00
Shofuku-ji
Shofuku-ji was Japan’s first Zen temple. Zen, of course, is the branch of Buddhism that employs sitting meditation to achieve enlightenment. It was brought to Japan by Yosai Zenji, who spent five years studying religion in China. After his return, Yosai built this temple on land given to him by Minamoto no Yoritomo, the founder of the Kamakura Shogunate and the first military ruler of the country. The framed motto on the temple gate was a gift from the Emperor Gotoba. In contemporary language, it means “the first Zen temple.” Now more than 800 years old, Shofuku-ji is known for upholding the teachings of Buddhism, its Zen dojo, and the rigor of its ascetic practices. The temple complex contained seven primary buildings when it was built, and in these were placed three statues of the Buddha. It is also recorded that the grounds held 38 smaller temples. In 1587, Toyotomi Hideyoshi formulated a city plan for Hakata that required temples to slash their land area by 75%. Despite this reduction, the layout of Shofuku-ji’s gate, Buddhist sanctum, and priests’ chambers was maintained in the original Zen style. Therefore, the entire temple grounds were designated a national historical site in 1969. The grounds are also noted for Tsushin Bridge which arches over Musen Pond, and a stand of camphor trees. The site is so quiet and peaceful, it is hard to believe a bustling business district is nearby. A path behind the sanctum leads to Genjyu-an and Sesshin-in before returning to the starting point, providing visitors a chance to take a stroll in a unique atmosphere. Nowadays, tea is commonplace in Japan, but did you know that Yosai Zenji also introduced tea to this country? He brought seeds back with him from China and planted them on the Shofuku-ji grounds. The temple is therefore the origin of all the tea in Japan. Sengai Osho, a former chief priest at Shofuku-ji, produced some remarkable Zen paintings. He is known throughout Japan as Sengai-san of Hakata.
Shofuku-ji
6-1 Gokusho-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 08:00 – 17:00
Tocho-ji
Surrounded by office buildings and located behind a high wall on Taihaku-dori, Tocho-ji seems imposing, but in fact anyone can enter, and it is a popular site for springtime cherry blossom viewing. This temple of the Mikkyo sect was built in 806 by Kobo Daiji. The sect venerates Dainichi Nyorai, one of the forms of the Buddha, and its teachings are said to reveal profound, absolute principles. The Rokkaku-do, a hexagonal-shaped hall, was built in 1842. The roof is hexagonal, but the front of the structure has been widened to facilitate worship, and the foundation is asymmetrical. It’s only open to the public on the 28th of the month, when you’ll get the chance to see the Fukuoka Daibutsu, Japan’s largest wooden statue of the seated Buddha. Built in 1992, it is 10.8 meters high and weighs 30 tons. It was built to that height to use the figure 108, the number of worldly desires according to Buddhism. There is also a tunnel built into the base of the statue, and it is said that passing through it and reaching the other side is like going through Hell to reach Paradise.
Tocho-ji
2-4 Gokusho-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 09:00 – 17:00
Joten-ji
Joten-ji was built in 1242 by the priest Shoichi Kokushi after his return from China, with the help of the merchant Xie Guoming, a naturalized Chinese. The temple complex housed 43 smaller temples during its peak. Now, a road runs between the two precincts. There is a stone monument on the grounds on which is carved the inscription, “birthplace of udon and soba.” Among the souvenirs Shoichi Kokushi brought back from China was a diagram showing how to make flour using a waterwheel. The methods for making udon, soba, and manju using flour ground on a mill spread from here throughout Japan. The temple is also known as the site where the Hakata Gion Yamakasa, Fukuoka’s epic summer festival, originated. Legend has it that during a plague in Hakata in 1241, Shoichi Kokushi was carried around the city on a palanquin offering prayers for an end to the suffering and drove out the evil spirits. The festival floats are now carried around and pass the temple in continuation of this tradition.
Joten-ji
1-29-9 Hakataeki-mae, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 08:00 – 16:00
Sumiyoshi-jinja
Since ancient times, Sumiyoshi-no-Okami has been the divinity protecting the safety of the seas, and has been worshipped by fishermen and others in the maritime industry. Even today, many boats are still christened with the name “Sumiyoshi-maru.” Considering Fukuoka’s importance as a port city, it’s no surprise that of the 2,129 Shinto shrines in Japan with Sumiyoshi-no-Okami as the enshrined deity, Hakata’s own Sumiyoshi Jinja is the oldest. Today, the shrine grounds are located in the heart of Fukuoka City, but maps of Hakata from centuries ago show that the land on which the shrine stands was once actually on a cape near the mouth of the river. Tenryu pond, in front of the shrine’s western gate, was once part of the river mouth. The shrine has several entrances, but we recommend entering by the western gate at the front of the main path. The trees lining the path to the main sanctuary are several hundred years old, creating a peaceful setting that will remove you mentally and spiritually from the bustling city just outside. Pass through the stone torii and continue along the path to the hall of worship with its vivid crimson colors. This hall is where visitors come to pray in front of the main sanctuary where the enshrined deities are placed. The main sanctuary is at the back of the hall of worship. The shrine, designated an important national cultural treasure, is built in a distinctive architectural style that has come to be known as Sumiyoshi-zukuri. The roof is unusual in that the eaves are not curved, and it is made from the bark of cypress trees more than 1,000 years old. A hall for Noh performances was built on the shrine grounds in 1938. The hall has a stage for performances and is unique for being open on three sides. The stage also extends far out into the audience seating area. Noh and concerts are still performed on this stage, but the performers must wear white tabi (traditional Japanese stockings) regardless of the event, owing to the religious nature of the site. The hall has no air conditioning, so columns of ice containing flowers are placed in the audience seating area during summer events to help beat the heat.
Sumiyoshi-jinja
3-1-51 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 06:00 – 21:00
Call 291-2670 in advance to visit the Noh performance hall
Extra Info!
Funeral – The (Japanese) Movie
Funerals in Japan are usually held in Buddhist temples. The film ‘The Funeral’ 1987 (Ososhiki), the first work of Japanese director Juzo Itami, is a black comedy depicting a family who holds its first funeral and the people who attend. We recommend it for an insightful and hilarious glimpse into Japanese-style funerals. A must see for all japanophiles!
Green tea
When people mention tea in Japan, they mean green tea, which has a long history as part of the daily life of the people. The Yame area in southern Fukuoka Prefecture is nationally famous as a production area for high quality tea. It’s convenient to drink green tea from bottles or brewed from tea bags, but best to use the tea leaves and traditional utensils to brew it from scratch and experience the true taste of Japan.
Jinrikishas (rickshaw)
Just like in the movies it’s still possible to travel by rickshaw here, but you’ll need a reservation. On Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays they’re easy to hire in front of the Hakatamachiya Furusatokan without a booking, where they’ll whisk you away to the Kushida Shrine or other tourist spots.
Address: 1-32-202 Kawabata-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka City
Telephone: 263-5720 / 090-8836-9724
Fax: 263-5750 (24 hours)
Fees: 1,000 yen per person for 10 minutes
Reservations required a day in advance
Rakusui-en
Rakusui-en is a traditional Japanese garden that dates from the Edo period. Its seasonal foliage and waterfall make it an enjoyable place for a stroll in any season. There is a restored Meiji-era tea house on the premises, where you can enjoy a cup of maccha (green tea) for ＼300.
Address: 2-10-7 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka （以下トル：City）
Telephone: 262-6665
Hours: 09:00 – 17:00
Closed on Tuesdays
If Tuesday is a holiday, the garden will be closed the following day.
Admission: 100 yen
Soba
You’re in for a treat if you try zarusoba (chilled buckwheat noodles), whose aroma and consistency are perfect to savor in summer. The cold soba noodles are dipped into sauce and eaten. When they finish, aficionados pour the hot water used to boil the noodles into the remaining sauce and drink it. It’s an excellent pick-me-up if you’ve wilted in the summer heat.
Take the Fukuoka Temple Trek!
Japan’s temples and shrines are must see attractions. Kyoto, Nara, and Kamakura are such well known spots, we often forget the treasures right here in Fukuoka. This month, we introduce three temples and two shrines each boasting fantastic histories, architecture and gardens. With the map on this page and our center map you should be able to see them all in as little as three hours – and get plenty of exercise, too! Take the temple trek!
Temples & Shrines
So what’s the difference between a shrine (-jinja) and a temple (-ji)?
Temple
Temples are almost always associated with Buddhism, the religion originating in India, as opposed to Shrines which are connected to Japan’s very own Shintoism. Temples are places where Buddhist ceremonies take place, such as the ever-popular new year rites, and advice or contemplation is sought on spiritual matters. Buddhist altars tend to be more ornate than their Shinto counterparts, and always contain images or sculptures of the Buddha.
Shrine
A shrine will house a kami (god) of the indigenous, ancient Japanese religion, Shinto. Shinto is concerned with earthly affairs such as success in study, health and wealth, farming, etc, and Japanese people come to the shrine to make an offering to the enshrined god and ask for help or assistance. Many important cultural and familial events take place in Shinto shrines, including blessing newborn children, and Japanese youth’s coming of age day. Shrines are recognizable by the large torii, or gates, that must be passed through when entering.
Kushida-jinja
Legend has it that Kushida Jinja was built in 757, but the shrine could not escape the destruction of the Warring States period and was burned down in 1587. It has since been rebuilt and dedicated as part of Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s city planning project for Hakata. Locals commonly refer to it by the name of O-Kushida-san, and it has long been considered the guardian spirit for all of Hakata. Visitors appeal to the tutelary deity for prosperity in business and a long life. The shrine is located near the Kawabata commercial district, Hakata’s first. After you pass through the torii, you’ll see a two-story gate with large red lanterns directly ahead of you. Make sure to stop inside the gate and look at the ceiling, where you’ll see a Chinese astrological chart. Every year on New Year’s Eve, the arrow pointer is turned to the sign for the upcoming year to show a favorable direction. This year is the year of the dog. After you pass through the gate, the main path leads to the house of worship. This structure is used as the permanent display space for one of the floats used in the Hakata Gion Yamakasa. You’ll be dazzled by its brilliant colors and the workmanship of the traditional Hakata doll makers who built it. For more details on the Yamakasa, refer to page 40. Next to the float there are several large rocks on a platform. These were muscled onto the platform centuries ago by famous sumo rikishi both as an offering and a demonstration of their strength. Just in front of the platform on the ground is the so-called “trial rock,” which the wrestlers would lift to find out just how strong they were. Also on the shrine grounds are a stand of gingko trees estimated to be more than 1,000 years old. They have been designated a natural monument of Fukuoka Prefecture. For more than a century, it has been the site where taiko drummers beat out a rhythm to announce the start of the float race, the closing event of Yamakasa.
Kushida-jinja
1-41 Kamikawabata-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open: Open every day, 04:00 – 22:00
Shofuku-ji
Shofuku-ji was Japan’s first Zen temple. Zen, of course, is the branch of Buddhism that employs sitting meditation to achieve enlightenment. It was brought to Japan by Yosai Zenji, who spent five years studying religion in China. After his return, Yosai built this temple on land given to him by Minamoto no Yoritomo, the founder of the Kamakura Shogunate and the first military ruler of the country. The framed motto on the temple gate was a gift from the Emperor Gotoba. In contemporary language, it means “the first Zen temple.” Now more than 800 years old, Shofuku-ji is known for upholding the teachings of Buddhism, its Zen dojo, and the rigor of its ascetic practices. The temple complex contained seven primary buildings when it was built, and in these were placed three statues of the Buddha. It is also recorded that the grounds held 38 smaller temples. In 1587, Toyotomi Hideyoshi formulated a city plan for Hakata that required temples to slash their land area by 75%. Despite this reduction, the layout of Shofuku-ji’s gate, Buddhist sanctum, and priests’ chambers was maintained in the original Zen style. Therefore, the entire temple grounds were designated a national historical site in 1969. The grounds are also noted for Tsushin Bridge which arches over Musen Pond, and a stand of camphor trees. The site is so quiet and peaceful, it is hard to believe a bustling business district is nearby. A path behind the sanctum leads to Genjyu-an and Sesshin-in before returning to the starting point, providing visitors a chance to take a stroll in a unique atmosphere. Nowadays, tea is commonplace in Japan, but did you know that Yosai Zenji also introduced tea to this country? He brought seeds back with him from China and planted them on the Shofuku-ji grounds. The temple is therefore the origin of all the tea in Japan. Sengai Osho, a former chief priest at Shofuku-ji, produced some remarkable Zen paintings. He is known throughout Japan as Sengai-san of Hakata.
Shofuku-ji
6-1 Gokusho-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 08:00 – 17:00
Tocho-ji
Surrounded by office buildings and located behind a high wall on Taihaku-dori, Tocho-ji seems imposing, but in fact anyone can enter, and it is a popular site for springtime cherry blossom viewing. This temple of the Mikkyo sect was built in 806 by Kobo Daiji. The sect venerates Dainichi Nyorai, one of the forms of the Buddha, and its teachings are said to reveal profound, absolute principles. The Rokkaku-do, a hexagonal-shaped hall, was built in 1842. The roof is hexagonal, but the front of the structure has been widened to facilitate worship, and the foundation is asymmetrical. It’s only open to the public on the 28th of the month, when you’ll get the chance to see the Fukuoka Daibutsu, Japan’s largest wooden statue of the seated Buddha. Built in 1992, it is 10.8 meters high and weighs 30 tons. It was built to that height to use the figure 108, the number of worldly desires according to Buddhism. There is also a tunnel built into the base of the statue, and it is said that passing through it and reaching the other side is like going through Hell to reach Paradise.
Tocho-ji
2-4 Gokusho-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 09:00 – 17:00
Joten-ji
Joten-ji was built in 1242 by the priest Shoichi Kokushi after his return from China, with the help of the merchant Xie Guoming, a naturalized Chinese. The temple complex housed 43 smaller temples during its peak. Now, a road runs between the two precincts. There is a stone monument on the grounds on which is carved the inscription, “birthplace of udon and soba.” Among the souvenirs Shoichi Kokushi brought back from China was a diagram showing how to make flour using a waterwheel. The methods for making udon, soba, and manju using flour ground on a mill spread from here throughout Japan. The temple is also known as the site where the Hakata Gion Yamakasa, Fukuoka’s epic summer festival, originated. Legend has it that during a plague in Hakata in 1241, Shoichi Kokushi was carried around the city on a palanquin offering prayers for an end to the suffering and drove out the evil spirits. The festival floats are now carried around and pass the temple in continuation of this tradition.
Joten-ji
1-29-9 Hakataeki-mae, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 08:00 – 16:00
Sumiyoshi-jinja
Since ancient times, Sumiyoshi-no-Okami has been the divinity protecting the safety of the seas, and has been worshipped by fishermen and others in the maritime industry. Even today, many boats are still christened with the name “Sumiyoshi-maru.” Considering Fukuoka’s importance as a port city, it’s no surprise that of the 2,129 Shinto shrines in Japan with Sumiyoshi-no-Okami as the enshrined deity, Hakata’s own Sumiyoshi Jinja is the oldest. Today, the shrine grounds are located in the heart of Fukuoka City, but maps of Hakata from centuries ago show that the land on which the shrine stands was once actually on a cape near the mouth of the river. Tenryu pond, in front of the shrine’s western gate, was once part of the river mouth. The shrine has several entrances, but we recommend entering by the western gate at the front of the main path. The trees lining the path to the main sanctuary are several hundred years old, creating a peaceful setting that will remove you mentally and spiritually from the bustling city just outside. Pass through the stone torii and continue along the path to the hall of worship with its vivid crimson colors. This hall is where visitors come to pray in front of the main sanctuary where the enshrined deities are placed. The main sanctuary is at the back of the hall of worship. The shrine, designated an important national cultural treasure, is built in a distinctive architectural style that has come to be known as Sumiyoshi-zukuri. The roof is unusual in that the eaves are not curved, and it is made from the bark of cypress trees more than 1,000 years old. A hall for Noh performances was built on the shrine grounds in 1938. The hall has a stage for performances and is unique for being open on three sides. The stage also extends far out into the audience seating area. Noh and concerts are still performed on this stage, but the performers must wear white tabi (traditional Japanese stockings) regardless of the event, owing to the religious nature of the site. The hall has no air conditioning, so columns of ice containing flowers are placed in the audience seating area during summer events to help beat the heat.
Sumiyoshi-jinja
3-1-51 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Open every day, 06:00 – 21:00
Call 291-2670 in advance to visit the Noh performance hall
Extra Info!
Funeral – The (Japanese) Movie
Funerals in Japan are usually held in Buddhist temples. The film ‘The Funeral’ 1987 (Ososhiki), the first work of Japanese director Juzo Itami, is a black comedy depicting a family who holds its first funeral and the people who attend. We recommend it for an insightful and hilarious glimpse into Japanese-style funerals. A must see for all japanophiles!
Green tea
When people mention tea in Japan, they mean green tea, which has a long history as part of the daily life of the people. The Yame area in southern Fukuoka Prefecture is nationally famous as a production area for high quality tea. It’s convenient to drink green tea from bottles or brewed from tea bags, but best to use the tea leaves and traditional utensils to brew it from scratch and experience the true taste of Japan.
Jinrikishas (rickshaw)
Just like in the movies it’s still possible to travel by rickshaw here, but you’ll need a reservation. On Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays they’re easy to hire in front of the Hakatamachiya Furusatokan without a booking, where they’ll whisk you away to the Kushida Shrine or other tourist spots.
Address: 1-32-202 Kawabata-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka City
Telephone: 263-5720 / 090-8836-9724
Fax: 263-5750 (24 hours)
Fees: 1,000 yen per person for 10 minutes
Reservations required a day in advance
Rakusui-en
Rakusui-en is a traditional Japanese garden that dates from the Edo period. Its seasonal foliage and waterfall make it an enjoyable place for a stroll in any season. There is a restored Meiji-era tea house on the premises, where you can enjoy a cup of maccha (green tea) for ＼300.
Address: 2-10-7 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka （以下トル：City）
Telephone: 262-6665
Hours: 09:00 – 17:00
Closed on Tuesdays
If Tuesday is a holiday, the garden will be closed the following day.
Admission: 100 yen
Soba
You’re in for a treat if you try zarusoba (chilled buckwheat noodles), whose aroma and consistency are perfect to savor in summer. The cold soba noodles are dipped into sauce and eaten. When they finish, aficionados pour the hot water used to boil the noodles into the remaining sauce and drink it. It’s an excellent pick-me-up if you’ve wilted in the summer heat.
