People around the globe are now familiar with Japanese culture. You can find Japanese food anywhere you go. The world is smitten with Japanese interior decorations, including tatami and fusuma, Japanese fashion in the form of kimono, and such traditional arts as the tea ceremony and flower arranging. Meanwhile, in Japan, young people are leading the way in a rediscovery of such traditional handicrafts as ceramics and textiles. The most well known local handicraft is Hakata-ori textiles. While people still consider it a craft art, the textiles are also found in familiar objects used in everyday life.
Australian Sabine Baer’s kimono, obi and bag are all made of Hakata-ori. 100% Hakata-ori = 100% Hakata Style.
Model: Sabine Baer
Hair/Make: I’Atelier Dimanche
Kimono & accessories: Irohana
Photo: Tsuyoshi Suzuki
Traditional beauty: the pride of Hakata
Hakata textiles were brought back from Sung period China by Hakata merchant Mitsuda Yazaemon and Shoichikokushi in 1235. They taught the people of Hakata the techniques for making the textiles, and their descendants continued researching and improving these techniques until they created the characteristic cloth of today with raised designs on a thick base fabric. Several areas in Japan are known for producing textiles, including the homes of the Nishijin and Kiryu textiles. While each has their own distinctive characteristics, the prominent feature of Hakata-ori is their practicality. A lot of slender warp thread is used, and this is strongly woven into the weft with a tautness to hold the pattern. Once the fabric is tightened, it is difficult to unravel. Another trait of Hakata-ori is that kimono belts made with this fabric produce a distinctive sound when being tightened. Even more than its practicality, one cannot avoid mentioning the beauty of its patterns. In general, there are two types of patterns–the Plain pattern and the figured pattern. The former was presented to the Tokugawa shogunate by the first head of the Kuroda domain, Nagamasa. The latter was developed over the years as a colorful variation with patterns that differ with each design.
A total of 46 workshops are registered today with the Hakata-ori Textile Industrial Association. When the kenjo variety was produced, only a few craftsmen produced Hakata textiles because it was a luxury item to be worn by those of samurai class or above. While the quality and scarcity value rose, only 12 craftsmen produced the fabric, so it did not develop into a major industry in the way that production of the Nishijin and Kiryu textiles did. Today, 450 people are involved in producing Hakata textiles, including craftsmen and employees, and they work to ensure the tradition is transmitted and preserved. Most of the workshops are located in the urban districts surrounding Fukuoka City, including Chikushino, Kasuga, and Nakagawa-machi. Generally, Hakata textiles have the image of a luxurious craft art used primarily for making kimono belts. As with Hakata dolls, they are often used for presents for people overseas. People seldom come into contact with it in their daily lives. Recently, however, the material is increasingly being used in more commonplace items, such as wallets, card holders, handbags, and neckties. Let’s take a look at Hakata textiles today.
Manufacturing process
Everything depends on the combination of the warp and weft. The textile art is created by integrating the design, color, and the weaver’s skills.
- Design: A pattern is colored on cross-sectioned paper to create the design.
- Dyeing: A specialist dyes the fabric after the color is determined at the design stage.
- Setting the loom: The thread is placed in the loom. This work requires a lot of care, because silk thread breaks easily.
- Weaving: Traditional techniques are evident in the intricacy and expressiveness of the pattern.
The many uses of Hakata-ori
Hakata-ori are not just for Japanese-style clothing. They are also used in everyday items such as card holders, wallets, and neckties.
- Handbags: The material can be used for handbags of all shapes and sizes, and goes well with any style of clothing, ranging from the pedestrian to the most elegant and fashionable.
- Phone straps: Here’s a hip way to show your Hakata pride. Inexpensive and colorful phone straps made of Hakata-ori can make you both cool and classic.
- Ties: Men can enjoy wearing Hakata-ori when used as the fabric to make ties. The combination of the silky sheen and the original woven patterns is very appealing.
- Card holders: We recommend this as a first purchase. The austere elegance of the traditional kenjo Hakata-ori is striking.
- Stuffed toys: Hakata-ori are used for teddy bears too. The material is also well suited to Western-style interiors.
- Personal Seal Case: Your chop is very important, so doesn’t it deserve a pretty home? Cases made of Hakata-ori aren’t just pretty, they’re durable too!
Hakata-ori memo
Hakata-ori Goshiki Kenjo: This is the starting point for Hakata-ori and was presented to the Tokugawa government during the Edo period. It has five woven colors, including purple, red, and yellow, each with their own meaning. It is recognized by its pattern which employs a design based on two Buddhist altar objects.
- Virtue (Purple): The root of the murasaki plant. A noble color expressing refinement and elegant mystery.
- Honor (Blue): Kariyasu, indigo plant. The start of a season. The color of calm, quiet, and peace.
- Trust (Yellow): The skin of an arbutus. The color of the earth. Its use by anybody other than the emperor was prohibited.
- Courtesy (Red): The root of a Japanese akane. Originates in the rising sun. The color of happiness and prosperity.
- Wisdom (Navy blue): Indigo plant. Strength, solidity, and trust. A color of seriousness and wisdom.
Where to See & Buy
Check out the Real Deal at Hakata Ori Kaikan
This facility is also the location of the Hakata-ori Industrial Textile Association. They present Hakata-ori actually used in products. Visitors can see the material woven by hand.
1-14-12 Hakataeki Minami, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Tel: 092-472-0761
9:00 ~ 17:00
Closed Sat., Sun., Wed., Hol.,
Perfect for gift shopping at Nigiwai Plaza
This facility is for the exhibition and sale of local crafts, including Hakata dolls and Hakata Magemono: wooden wares in addition to Hakata-ori.
3-1 Shimokawabata-machi, B2F Hakata Riverain Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Tel: 092-281-5050
10:00 ~ 20:00
Closed: Never
Hakata-ori for everyday use at Hakata Japan
Hakata Japan exhibits handbags, wallets, and other everyday items made from Hakata-ori. The designs and material combinations are so attractive you’ll want to use them yourself.
2-2-3 Jigyohama, 4F Sea Hawk Hotel, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka
Tel: 092-832-5101
10:00 ~ 20:00 (21:00 before Hol.)
Closed: Never
Give weaving a try at Hakata Machiya Furusato-kan
Though machines are increasingly being used to weave Hakata-ori, visitors to this facility can see it being woven by hand. They also can try weaving it themselves with the help of an artisan.
6-10 Reisen-machi, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka
Tel: 092-281-7761
10:00 ~ 18:00 (no admission after 17:30)
Demonstrations: 11:00 ~ 13:00 / 15:00 ~ 17:00
Closed: Never
Interview
Fukuoka Now talks to a weaver of Hakata-ori. Unfurling Hakata textiles throughout the world…
Okano K.K.
Chairman, Hakata-ori Textile Industrial Association Young People’s Division – Hirokazu Okano
“Conveying a tradition involves receiving it as it is, but tradition has the sense of adding originality to this conveyance. I think traditional techniques are not just a manual. They are conveyed for the first time when the spirit of the skilled craftsman is received. When people use these traditional techniques, the significance of their existence is revealed. What is the authentic article? In the future, I think we will need Hakata textiles to be a traditional craft art that creates something authentic, and which will be accepted throughout the world by diversifying its uses beyond the kimono.”
博多の手仕事・博多織
海外で和食が食べられるなんて当たり前。畳や襖などのインテリア、着物柄をアレンジしたファッション、茶道や華道などの“道”の文化などなど、世界には至る所に和モノが浸透している。国内では、若者を中心に焼き物や織物などの伝統的な手仕事が見直されているのだ。博多で手仕事といえば、博多織が代表的。工芸品のイメージが強いものの、着物の帯だけなく、普段使いできる親しみやすい織物だった。
博多が誇る伝統の美
そもそも博多織とよばれる織物は、1235年に博多の商人であった満田弥三右衛門と聖一国師によって宋より持ち込まれた織物。博多の人々に技法を伝え、その子孫たちが研究、改良を重ね、現在の厚手の生地に模様の浮き出た特徴的な織物「博多織」が誕生した。西陣織や桐生織りなど国内にはいくつか織物の産地があり、それぞれに特徴があるが、博多織の特筆すべき特徴はその実用性。細いたて糸を多く使い、太いよこ糸を強く打ち込んで柄をつけるため張りがあり、一度締めると緩みにくく、帯を締める時に鳴る「キュッキュッ」という音も博多織ならではの特徴だ。また、実用性もさることながら、その美しい柄も博多織を語る上ではずせない。織物は大きく平織りと紋織りの2種類。前者に代表される献上文様は黒田藩初代藩主・長政が徳川幕府へ献上した織物として、後者は時代の流れ、それぞれの意匠（デザイン）によってさまざまな表情を見せる多彩な織物として知られている。
現在、博多織工業組合に登録している工房は全46軒。献上品として生産されていた当時、博多織は武家以上が身につける高級品として織元を制限。品質と希少価値は上がったものの、わずか12の織元で生産されていたため、西陣織や桐生織のように大規模な工業として発展するには至らなかった。しかし、現在でも 職人、職員含め、約450名が博多織の生産に携わり、伝承と保存に尽力している。大小含め、工房は福岡市を中心に筑紫野市や春日市、那珂川町など、近郊の町に点在。それぞれが伝統の技を受け継いでいる。
一般的に博多織は「工芸品（博多織）＝高級」「博多織＝帯」、はたまた博多人形と並んでお土産的なイメージが強く、普段の生活ではほとんどふれることがないというのが現状。しかし、最近は博多織を使った財布や名刺入れ、バックやネクタイなど、普段使いできる、普段使いしたくなるアイテムが新たに注目されているのだ。職人技が光る博多織の魅力、和装の域を超えて新しい分野に広がる博多織、 新しい活用法など、 職人技を集結させた見事な日本の美・博多織にふれてみよう。
＜＜博多織の出来るまで＞＞
すべては横糸と縦糸の組み合わせによって描かれる世界。デザイン、色つけ、織り手の技が一体となって生まれる織物の芸術なのだ。
意匠
方眼紙の図案に色づけしながら織物の図案を決めていく。
染色
意匠の段階で色決定。専門の職人が染色をする。
機仕掛
織り機に糸をかける。絹糸は切れやすく神経を使う作業。
製織
トーン、トントントン。緻密さ、張りの良さに伝統の技が光る
XXXXX 帯だけにあらず。博多織いろいろ XXXXX
さらりと出した名刺入れが、財布がネクタイが博多織だったら…。和服だけじゃない、普段使いの博多織をご提案。
バッグ／大中小、サイズも形もさまざま。普段使いからおめかし衣装までコーディネイトは自由自在。
ぬいぐるみ／博多織がかわいいテディベアに。洋風の部屋にもぴったりなじむ。
ネクタイ／男性向けに博多織のネクタイはいかが。厚みとおうとつ、絹の光沢と織り模様が斬新。
名刺入れ／博多織初心者におすすめ。伝統の献上博多織が渋さを際だたせる。
携帯ストラップ／鮮やかな色合いと繊細な織り柄がアクセントになった携帯ストラップ。柄、色はさまざま。
印鑑入れ 持ち運びに便利な朱肉付きの印鑑入れ。見えない所にお洒落心が見える小粋な一品。
XXXXX 帯 コラム；博多織豆知識！ XXXXX
博多織五色献上 / Hakata Ori Goshiki Kenjyo
江戸時代徳川幕府に献上していた博多織の原点となる織物。紫や赤、黄色などそれぞれに意味を持つ五色の織り色からなり、2つの仏具を図案化した模様で知られる。
徳（紫：ムラサキ草の根） 落ち着きと品格神秘、高貴な色。
仁（青：かりやす、アイ） 季節の始め。穏やかさ、静けさ、平和の色。
信（黄：ヤマモモの皮） 大地の色。皇帝以外の使用が禁止されていた。
礼（赤：日本アカネの根） 天に昇る太陽に由来。幸福や富を表す色。
智（紺：アイ） 力強く重厚、信用。まじめで知的な色。
XXXXX 実際に使ってみよう！取り扱いショップはこちら XXXXX
手織りを見学／博多織会館
博多織工業組合の事務所が同居する施設。実際に製品としての博多織の実演が行われており、手織りを見学することができる。
福岡市博多区博多駅南1-14-12
Tel: 092-472-0761
9:00～17:00
土、日、水、祝
贈り物探しにぴったり／にぎわいプラザ
博多織をはじめ、博多人形や曲げ物など、福岡の伝統工芸品を展示販売。
福岡市博多区下川端町3-1 博多リバレインB2F
Tel: 092-281-5050
10:00～20:00
年中無休
普段使いの博多織／ハカタジャパン
バックや財布、ぬいぐるみなど、博多織を使ったモダンなデザインの商品が揃う。和洋を織り交ぜた新しい組み合わせが見事。
福岡市中央区地行浜2-2-3 シーホークホテル4Ｆ
Tel: 092-832-5101
10:00～20:00 (休日前～21:00)
年中無休
手織り体験がおすすめ／博多町家ふるさと館
機械化が進む博多織の中、ここでは手織りの実演を見学することができる。また、職人の指導のもと、織り体験をすることも可。
福岡市博多区冷泉町6-10
Tel: 092-281-7761
10:00～18:00（入館は17:30まで）
実演時間: 11:00～13:00、15:00～17:00
年中無休
XXXXX インタビュー: 博多織を支える織元に聞く！XXXXX
世界を視野に展開する博多織
“伝承”とはそのままを受け継ぐことであり、“伝統”とは“伝承”にオリジナリティを付加したもの。伝統技術はひとつのマニュアルだけでなく、熟練した職人の魂を受け継いでこそ、初めて伝わるものだと思います。そしてその伝統技術は人々に利用されてこそ、その存在意義を発揮するもの。“本物”とは何か？ 今後はさらに、伝統工芸品として本物作りをめざし、着物だけに止まらない多彩な展開で、世界に受け入れられる博多織が必要だと考えています。
博多織工業組合 青年部会長 （株）岡野
岡野 博一氏 Hirokazu Okano
Originally published in Fukuoka Now magazine (fn74 Feb. 2005 )
