Crisp on the outside, light and fluffy within, finished with a rich, melting sweetness.
At Sumiyaki Unafuji, extra-large aou-nagi, a premium grade of Japanese eel prized for its size and rich fat content, is grilled over intense binchotan charcoal. Only a small portion of the national eel harvest qualifies as aou-nagi, and Unafuji goes a step further by selecting larger-than-standard eel, resulting in thicker cuts and a more luxurious texture. In the hands of skilled craftsmen, the surface turns fragrant and lightly crisp, while the inside remains remarkably soft, with natural fat that melts effortlessly on the palate.
In Fukuoka, where steamed eel is the norm, Unafuji’s approach offers a striking contrast. Here, the eel is grilled directly over charcoal without a steaming step, cooked all the way to the bone. The result feels almost like a different dish altogether, bold, aromatic, and deeply satisfying.
That experience arrived in Daimyo on January 16, 2025, with the opening of Sumiyaki Unafuji Fukuoka Daimyo Bettei. Founded in Nagoya in 1995, Unafuji has built a devoted following through its use of rare, large-format aou-nagi sourced from trusted producers, a distinctive charcoal-grilling method, and a closely guarded house sauce that has never left the kitchen.
Ahead of the opening, we attended a full-course tasting at the restaurant, offering a clear sense of both the precision and generosity behind Unafuji’s cooking.
The restaurant occupies a beautifully renovated kominka just across from the former Daimyo Elementary School. Inside, traditional Japanese aesthetics are carefully preserved. Counter seats look out onto a courtyard pond where koi glide quietly past, while sunlit table seating and private rooms for four or six guests make the space suitable for everything from relaxed lunches to business dinners and special occasions.
The menu showcases charcoal-grilled eel in its many forms. Alongside the classic unadon with sauce, diners can enjoy Nagoya’s signature hitsumabushi, generously portioned long-grilled eel, and shiroyaki, served without sauce to highlight the eel’s natural flavor.
Unafuji’s hitsumabushi follows the traditional four-step style. First, enjoy the eel as it is, savoring its natural richness. Next, add condiments such as green onion or wasabi. The third serving is finished with dashi for a lighter, ochazuke-style taste. The final portion is yours to enjoy however you like best.
A popular starter is umaki, a soft rolled omelet wrapped around eel, a staple of serious unagi restaurants and a perfect dish to enjoy while waiting for the main course.
For us, the standout was the shiroyaki. It quickly became Emiko’s favorite, and came as a genuine surprise for Nick as well. Despite having eaten a great deal of eel over the years, this version stood apart, clean, aromatic, and unlike any unagi he had tasted before. Lightly seasoned, it is best tried first on its own, then with wasabi or a touch of soy sauce. The smoky charcoal aroma pairs exceptionally well with sake or wine.
With deep respect for its producers and thoughtful attention to tableware and interior details, Sumiyaki Unafuji Fukuoka Daimyo Bettei presents eel cuisine as both craft and culture. English, Chinese, and Korean menus are available, making it an easy choice for international guests as well.
Ms. Misao Okada, the restaurant’s senior proprietress, and Naoki Mizuno, founder of Unafuji.
