This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
Text and photos by: Tim Muzik / Follow on Strava
Today we’re heading west along the Karatsu Kaido toward the quiet coastal town of Matsuura. This is a scenic route that winds out of Fukuoka, through Saga, and into the northern reaches of Nagasaki Prefecture. For a bit of extra challenge and views, we’ll be looping around the Genkai Coast, passing through rice terraces and fishing villages that dot this corner of Kyushu. Empty ocean roads, rolling climbs, and Matsuura’s famous aji fry await!
Route Overview
Route Highlights: Karatsu Castle, Yobuko Morning Market, Nagoya Castle Ruins, Terraced Rice Fields of Hamanoura, Fukushima Island, Imari, Takenokoba Climb, The Shisa River, Matsuura
Length: 130km
Climbing: 1300m
GPX File
Route back to Fukuoka here
The Road to Karatsu
Heading out of Fukuoka, it’s best to leave a bit early to beat some of the westbound traffic heading to Itoshima and Karatsu. While the roads can feel a bit narrow at times, there’s enough space to ride safely. The box stores along National Route 202 quickly give way to peaceful farm roads near Ikisan, and soon after, the always stunning coastal route that runs parallel to the Chikuhi Line toward Karatsu.
It doesn’t take long to cross into Saga Prefecture, and pass through one of Japan’s largest and most beautiful pine forests, Nijinomatsubara. Shortly after clearing the forest the route crosses the Matsuura River via Maizuru Bridge which offers some of the best views of Karatsu Castle above.
The Genkai Coast
Continuing past Karatsu the route clings to the 204 as it begins to wrap its way around the Genkai Coast. It’s here where this ride really gets good as you begin to roll through small fishing towns on a road that, even on holidays, seems to be completely void of car traffic.
About 20km past Karatsu the quiet road temporarily changes to a bustling street as you near the Yobuko Morning market. Assuming that most will be arriving before noon, the market will be open and full of people clambering to get some fresh seafood at one of the many stalls shelling out the local squid.
For those with the time and desire to get a little closer to the aquatic action there is a sightseeing boat that tours local caves and sea life. We opted to skip the tour and press on.
A little climb heading out of Yobuko brings you over Nagoyao Bridge which has some great views of Nagoyaura Bay to the south and the large cable-stayed Yobuko Bridge to the north which connects Kabe Island to the mainland.
Rice Terraces & Sea Views
There is a well placed 7-Eleven just before the Nagoya Castle ruins which provides a great spot to stop and fuel up. This is also where you could add an extension to Hado Cape, which is a popular place for hiking and camping. History buffs will also enjoy the number of brightly colored informative signs which line the road explaining the history of the area.
The Genkai Coast is best known for its stunning rice terraces, with the Terraced Rice Fields of Hamanoura being the most famous, and for good reason, they’re truly impressive. But the entire peninsula is dotted with nearly equally beautiful terraces, so it’s worth keeping your head on a swivel and stopping regularly to take in the views. One unique spot is the lookout near the Chika Police Box, which has a police officer statue that makes a fun addition to a bike photo.
The final 20km of the Genkai coast is an enjoyable, albeit hilly, experience, as you roll through small farming and fishing towns approaching Imari and the bridge to another possible extension, Fukushima Island. Rachel and I skipped this option as we had already built a long day of riding..something for another day.
Down the Shisa River
Heading out of Imari and toward Matsuura, there are a couple of options: stick to the coast and follow the Matsuura Railway line, or head up the 375m climb that passes through Takenokoba Park and follows the Shisa River. Having now done both, if you have the energy, the climbing route is a much nicer option. The 6km climb from Imari consists of a series of smooth switchbacks that provide increasingly nice views over the valley and bay below. Once at the top, there is a great lookout and a place to recoup before making the final 15km descent into Matsuura.
This final section is absolutely stunning as you trace the river and cross into Nagasaki Prefecture. We didn’t see a single car on this whole ride into Matsuura and the road is lined with some of the most beautiful rice terraces and farm fields of the route.
Matsuura
Matsuura is a quiet but beautiful town, with some interesting coastal cliffs, a well-stocked roadside station, and a number of lively izakayas serving the local famous dish, aji fry (fried horse mackerel). We settled down here for the night at a welcoming ryokan before making the push home in the morning.
If, like us, you’re riding back to Fukuoka the next day, there are a number of interesting backroads to take, making this an overnight trip worth repeating. The beautiful ride from Imari to Karatsu via the Matsuura River bike path is a great route in its own right.
This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
