This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
Text and photos by: Tim Muzik / Follow on Strava
Today, we’re heading to the southern tip of Kyushu for another cold winter cycling trip, this time exploring the Satsuma and Osumi Peninsulas. We’re tossing our bikes onto the Shinkansen from Fukuoka, hoping to find warmer weather and clear skies. This journey takes us through the quiet roads of Kagoshima and Miyazaki Prefectures, offering incredible views of the region’s varied landscapes. Stratovolcanoes, peaceful countryside, ferry crossings, sea monsters, coastal roads, and the constant eruptions of Sakurajima make this a trip well worth accepting the cold fingers and toes that are sure to come. This article will cover the first day of our journey, taking us down the Ibusuki Skyline to Lake Ikeda.
Route Overview
Route Highlights: Kagoshima, Sakurajima, The Ibusuki Skyline, Lake Ikeda, Mt. Kaimon, Ibusuki
Length: 80km
Climbing: 1540m
GPX File
Arriving by train in Kagoshima, the first thing to do is always head to the coast and check on Sakurajima, Japan’s most active volcano. After confirming it was still there, spewing its usual ash cloud, we set off south through the busy streets toward our route for the day, the Ibusuki Skyline. We planned to take this climb-heavy route to the southern tip of the Satsuma Peninsula, where our hotel in Ibusuki awaited.
The Ibusuki Skyline
The 46km Ibusuki Skyline rides the mountain ridge from Kagoshima to Ibusuki, climbing and descending a staggering 1,300m in the process. This toll road, at least on the day of our trip, was completely empty of cars and as smooth as glass. Not only is it totally car-free, but being atop the mountain ridge, it has regular beautiful lookouts over Kagoshima Bay. Be advised that there are basically no food or drink options for the entirety of the road, so it is best to stock up on calories in Kagoshima before locking into this grueling but rewarding ride.
Accessing the road requires that even bikes must pay a toll. While I would usually argue that cyclists should be exempt, the insanely smooth pavement had me thinking I would have happily paid more than the ¥10 fee to get past the security guard and into the climbing heaven that lay ahead.
Aside from the flowing climbs and descents there are a number of observation decks as you work your way south down the Skyline. This is the first you will encounter, and there are some helpful signs which show highlights on the road ahead.
While the Skyline feels like a constant series of climbs and descents, it’s actually a collection of six main peaks that gradually increase in size. The final peak is the biggest climb of the day, reaching nearly 600m in altitude. While the earlier climbs are winding and fun, this last one is a straight slog with a consistently challenging gradient. However, the reward at the top is worth it, your first stunning views of Mt. Kaimon, a perfectly cone-shaped stratovolcano that looks like a mini Mt. Fuji.
Lake Ikeda & Mt. Kaimon
The Skyline ends with a stunning descent, leading to one of Kyushu’s most impressive natural features, Lake Ikeda. As the largest lake in Kyushu, it was formed by a volcanic eruption nearly 6,000 years ago. It’s also the fourth deepest lake in Japan, reaching depths of 233 meters. Hidden beneath its waters is a submerged volcano that rises 150 meters from the lakebed.
Perhaps the most bizarre and fascinating feature of Lake Ikeda is its population of giant mottled eels, which can grow to over two meters long.
Even stranger, in the late 1970s, the lake became famous for alleged sightings of a Loch Ness-style monster, named “Isshi.” Statues of this mysterious creature can be found around the lake, along with informational signs displaying photographs and timelines of reported sightings. Whether myth or reality, Isshi has become a beloved part of the lake’s lore, adding an extra layer of intrigue to this already unbelievable spot.
Pushing further along, the road to Ibusuki swoops in front of the dormant, perfectly symmetrical “Fuji of Satsuma,” Mt. Kaimon. This 920m stratovolcano is a popular hiking and photography destination and a great option for those wanting to skip the crowds of Fuji while still being rewarded with an arguably just as amazing view. A well placed Family Mart also provides the foreground for a some classic konbini composition.
Ibusuki
Eki stamp collectors will want to stop on the way to Ibusuki at the southern-most JR station Nishi-Oyama. The quiet roads around the southern tip of the Satsuma peninsula, Cape Nagasakibana offer some beautiful cycling options that crisscross the farm fields in the area.
Ibusuki is a popular tourist destination not only for its proximity to Lake Ikeda and Mt. Kaimon but also for its famous hot springs and unique “sand baths” (sunamushi). Here, visitors are buried in naturally heated volcanic sand, which is said to improve circulation and relieve muscle pain. Not being a fan of confined spaces, this sounded like my personal nightmare, but those participating looked perfectly content.
Aside from the numerous onsen hotels, Ibusuki is a laid-back coastal town with some quirky highlights. The Ibusuki Station is home to the sleek black-and-gold Ibutama sightseeing train, a stylish, retro-themed train that runs between Kagoshima and Ibusuki. Another unexpected find, and my personal favorite, is a tetrapod shaped like an Easter Island head.
This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
