Text and photos by: Tim Muzik
I’m Tim, and my wife Rachel and I recently made Fukuoka our home. If we aren’t at work, we’re out on our bikes, exploring the mountain passes and coastlines of Kyushu. In this series, we’ll take you along on our journeys to the rivers, reservoirs, peaks, local shops, and hidden gems that make Fukuoka a cyclist’s dream destination. Whether you’re an avid cyclist, an outdoor enthusiast, a long-time resident, new to Japan, or just eager to explore, join us as we uncover the beauty and charm of Kyushu by bike. We’d love to hear your feedback, suggestions, or requests for future rides—feel free to email us at cycling@fukuoka-now.com
This article is part of our growing collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
Route Overview
Highlights: Sefuri Peak and the Gokayama Dam
Length: 71 km
Climbing: 1,440 meters
Konbini Calories: 10 onigiri
GPX File: download
Today, we will be riding up to Sefuri Peak and around the Gokayama Reservoir, a punchy but beautiful go-to weekend loop for every Fukuoka cyclist. This route can be tackled by anyone with a little determination, but with 1,300 meters of climbing crammed into a 70-kilometer ride, it’s best to pair that determination with a wide gear range… and maybe a few snacks.
Starting the Ride: Muromi River to Wakiyama Village
The best way to reach these areas is by tracing the Muromi River (which is fed largely by the Gokayama Reservoir) as it winds toward the mountains. Riding out of town, you’ll transition from lively urban streets, to box stores, and then to peaceful rice fields in just a few short kilometers. You’ll quickly find yourself nestled in the often rainy pocket of land formed by the meeting of Aburayama, the Sefuri Range, and Mt. Iimori.
As the river forks, you’ll join the Shiihara River, a tributary of the Muromi, and ride through the farming village of Wakiyama. The scenery shifts dramatically here, giving way to rolling hills and mountain walls covered in Japanese cedar and cypress trees.
Climbing Sefuri: The Rindo Roads
Following the Second World War, Japan underwent a massive reforestation effort to replenish resources and meet the soaring demand for timber. The need to access remote mountain areas led to the creation of every Japan-based cyclist’s best friend: the rindo road. Rindo roads (forestry roads) were built to provide mountain access to forestry workers as they managed and maintained the planned forests.
While they still somewhat serve this purpose, they also create some of the most scenic, peaceful, and safe cycling roads available anywhere on Earth. The tall conifers that line these roads provide shade from the heat, protection from the wind, and a uniquely Japanese landscape to enjoy. They also provide habitats for the badgers, boars, and tanukis that often dart across the road, causing concern for cyclists descending back to sea level.
Route 136 is one of those ideal rindo roads and leads directly up Mt. Sefuri from the Wakiyama valley. Starting as a quiet but well-maintained road, Route 136 transforms into a true rindo road after crossing the Shiihara River near a locally famous organic buffet restaurant. The disappearance of all painted lines and a dark, damp feeling signify that you have made it to the mountains. As you climb Route 136, each corner is marked with a number, which to cyclists serves as both a motivator and a challenge as you near the summit.
Reaching Sefuri Peak
At around 650 meters of elevation, the road descends briefly and leads to a small settlement called Itaya. Turning right at the fork here leads to a short but grueling detour to the peak of Sefuri, which is significantly steeper, narrower, and all-around more rindo-like as it climbs another 400 meters in 4 kilometers. If you bring enough motivation—and cake—you will reach the fruits of your labor. These fruits come in the form of a parking lot, a popular campsite, a Sakura viewing area, and a convergence of hiking trails. From there, the road ends, forcing you to leave your bike behind and ascend the remaining 50 meters to the summit on foot.
Fukuoka residents will recognize Sefuri as the tallest peak of the Sefuri Range that lies directly south of the city. At 1,055 meters of elevation, the peak offers some amazing 360-degree views of Fukuoka and Saga Prefectures, which it borders. Even on a clear day, Sefuri Peak is usually covered in mist, but during sunset, the two radar domes that sit atop the peak—one operated by the Japanese Air Self-Defense Force and the other by the United States Air Force—are visible from all over Fukuoka.
It’s worth spending time at the peak, taking in the beautiful shrines and heritage sites located here. Informative signage marks this area as significant during the late 17th century, particularly during border disputes between the clans of Saga and Fukuoka.
For those wishing to explore the area a little further, a quick trip down Route 206 will lead you to the site of a plane crash involving a French aviator in the 1930s. A sign at the site tells the story of the local people around Sefuri who searched for him and the bonds it created between the people of Japan and France.
Gokayama Dam & Reservoir: The Highlight of the Ride
After a quick blast back down to where you left Route 136, you will descend through beautifully smooth roads and coniferous forests to the highlight of the ride: the Gokayama Dam & Reservoir. Here, you will briefly enter Saga Prefecture, and this is a great chance to sprint ahead of your friends, cross the prefecture sign first, and celebrate like you’ve won the Tour de France. My wife, Rachel, loves it when I do that.
Like most large reservoirs, the construction of the Gokayama Dam, which was completed in 2017, was not without controversy. The impacts on the environment, people, and wildlife that were displaced, destroyed, or altered remain a topic of contention. Efforts to minimize this impact are evident, as a 600-year-old cedar tree, designated as a natural monument by Saga Prefecture, is enclosed in metal beams, having been moved from its previous location, which is now deep underwater.
Aside from fulfilling its main purposes of supplying water and controlling floods, the Gokayama Reservoir attracts a range of people. Mostly lycra-clad cyclists and fully kitted-out motorcycle enthusiasts race around it like Valentino Rossi (or maybe Tadayuki Okada, since it is Japan). The smooth roads and lack of cars make this an inviting place to try to set a personal best time, whether human-powered or motor. About halfway around the dam, a sign notes that you are back in Fukuoka Prefecture—another chance for glory!
Trail Coffee Shop: The Perfect End to the Ride
This is one of the few rides where there is some incentive to leave a little later. That incentive comes in the form of an amazing coffee shop called Trail, which only opens at 10 a.m. I learned this the hard way after arriving at 9:15 a.m. once, after spending the entire ride looking forward to it. There’s also an outdoor equipment shop, public restrooms, and a reservoir lookout platform here. It’s also a great spot to meet other cyclists and subtly compare who has the nicer, more niche bike.
Heading Back to the City
Now caffeinated and fed, there are two options to get back down to sea level. I much prefer to simply retrace my path and return down the beloved rindo road. Others may prefer to follow the path of the water that leaves the reservoir and ride along the Naka River on Route 385 back to the city. While this road is busier, it does pass a famous roadside hot dog vendor.
Regardless of the route, remember to look out for badgers and boars on the descent. The next time you’re out for a stroll along the Muromi River or having a pastry at Blue Jam, you can rest easy knowing you have a better understanding of where the water comes from.
This article is part of our growing collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu