This article is part of our growing collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
Text and photos by: Tim Muzik / Follow on Strava
Today, we’re heading out on an overnight bike trip to Kokura and back. With a total distance of 175 km, this loop can be completed in a single day, but it’s much more enjoyable when spread over two. Breaking it up gives time to refuel, rest, and explore the countless points of interest along the way and in Kokura itself. After packing a change of clothes, and some casual shoes into a tail bag, we’re set and ready to go!
Route Overview
Route Highlights: Miyawaka, Kurate, Hata Reservoir, Kawachi Reservoir, Kokura, Masubuchi Reservoir, Kawara, Iizuka.
Length: 175 km (Day 1: 86 km, Day 2: 88 km)
Climbing: 1637 m (Day 1: 848m, Day 2: 789m)
Konbini Calories: 22 onigiri (Day 1: 1,917 calories, Day 2: 1,869 calories)
Day 1 GPX File
Day 2 GPX File
Day 1: Fukuoka to Kokura via the Hata & Kawachi Reservoirs
Route Overview
There are truly endless route options for cycling from Fukuoka to Kitakyushu. Rachel and I opted for an 86 km route that takes us through Koga, Kurate, and up to the scenic Hata and Kawachi Reservoirs.
Leaving Town & The Wide Farming Road of Koga
Similar to so many rides before, the day begins by passing through the smooth and easily navigable streets of the Tenjin area. From there, we make our way north past Fukuoka Airport and then wind around the peaceful roads near Mikazuki Lake. The busy city streets soon give way to quiet farming roads, ideal for a cycling adventure.
After stopping for coffee at the 7-Eleven near the Kitachikushokaen Intersection, we joined up with the picturesque Wide Area Farming Road. This undulating empty road goes through, as the name suggests, some quiet farms and provides great views of the mountains to the south.
Miyawaka, Kurate & The Onga River
After crossing the Kyushu Expressway and the Saigo River, the route climbs briefly, bypassing the Misaka Tunnel. An overpass here offers views of the expressway below and Ainoshima in the distance. The summit of this small climb is marked by a Miyawaka City sign, where a Maneki-neko welcomes you into town.
Midway down the descent, Rachel and I were drawn into Nekozuka Park to learn about the unfortunate history of a local cat and rat memorialized there. From the park, Route 30 follows the Yamaguchi River, leading toward the outskirts of Miyawaka and Kurate.
The farming roads around Kurate offer some excellent cycling. The massive twin peaks of Mt. Hiko are visible in the distance, and as you approach Kitakyushu, the Sarakura mountain area starts to loom over you. Rachel and I were reminded of our increasing proximity to Kitakyushu when a train, adorned with the logo of the local football team, the Giravanz, clattered by. Leaving Kurate, the route crosses the Onga River. This 61 km river originates at Mt. Hiko and flows to the Sea of Japan, with its banks lined with parks and cycling paths.
The Hata & Kawachi Reservoirs
After crossing the Onga River, Route 61 brings you to the most consequential climbs of the day, passing the beautiful Hata and Kawachi Reservoirs. The Hata is the smaller of the two and the first you’ll encounter. Rachel and I stopped here for a quick look and an obligatory bike photo. From there, the road continues to climb for 300 meters along a perfectly empty mountain road, lined with maple, beech, and oak trees.
Just before Tashiromachi, a left turn leads you onto Route 62, where a small but beautiful cycling path appears on the opposite side of the clear river the road follows. While at first bumpy and slippery, the path quickly widens and improves as it guides you to the stunning Kawachi Reservoir.
Rachel and I now consider ourselves quite well-versed in all things related to Japanese dams and reservoirs, and we’re not easily impressed. However, the Kawachi Dam may just sit at the top of our list for the most beautiful in Fukuoka. Completed in 1927, this dam offers views of the Mt. Sarakura Observatory above and is surrounded by a popular hiking route. The highlight of the area is the Minamikawachi Bridge, a striking red lenticular truss bridge built in 1926, which provides another perfect spot for…a bike picture.
The road descends from here and meets the Itabitsu River as it flows toward Kokura. Rachel and I decided to skip Kokura Castle for now and head straight to another local attraction: a sizzling iron plate of Tetsunabe gyoza. After devouring a large plate, we made a quick stop at our hotel to park the bikes and get ready for an exploratory walk around Kokura City.
Keirin Racing & Kokura City Exploring
Nestled amongst the Murasaki River and the peaks of Mt. Hodai, Adachi, and Komanji, Kokura City is just a few hundred meters from Honshu, the largest and most populous of Japan’s islands. While most visitors will initially head to the beautifully restored Kokura Castle, I first dragged Rachel to Kokura’s slice of cycling history—the Kitakyushu Media Dome.
Most will be familiar with Keirin cycle racing and its competitors’ brightly colored helmets and outfits. Long famous in Japan as a means of sports betting, Keirin racing gained international recognition when it was introduced to the 2000 Summer Olympics in Sydney. This site in Kokura is integral to the history of Keirin racing, as it began here in 1948. As a lover of all things cycling, this was, in no small part, a motivation for this particular weekend trip.
After likely spending too much time exploring the inside of the dome and watching some races with the locals (on monitors, as the races were happening in Kumamoto that day), Rachel and I continued on to discover more of what makes Kokura a unique and charming place.
Day 2: Home to Fukuoka via the Masubuchi Reservoir
Route Overview
With the countless reservoirs and mountain roads between Kokura and Fukuoka, planning the ride back home is relatively easy. Rachel and I opted for an 88km route with around 800m of climbing, that goes through the mountains directly south of Kokura surrounding the Masubuchi Dam. Those feeling a little tired from the day before, or worried about bad weather in the mountains could choose to bike directly to Nakama and take the Onga River south for 25km to Iizuka.
Leaving Town & The Masubuchi Reservoir
The ride starts by heading directly south under the Kokura Monorail line, a fast and fun straight shot out of town. After an easy 10 km push, the city fades into surreal mountain roads, nearly empty of cars and people. If you missed breakfast, your last chance to grab food before reaching the mountains is a conveniently placed Mini-Stop in Tokuyoshi.
Leaving Tokuyoshi, the road begins a steady 200m climb toward the Masubuchi Reservoir. In the spring, this area is well-known for Sakura blossom viewing, but even outside of that season, it’s worth visiting for the beautiful, untouched forest lining the route. Naturally, the reservoir also makes a great spot for another bike photo.
The descent from here is bumpy but beautiful, slinking toward National Route 322. Here, you’ll need to switch on your front lights as you pass through a busy tunnel before popping out and turning onto another perfectly empty road outside Kawara. A gentle downhill guides you effortlessly through the farming community of Saidosho, nestled between the Kibe River and the Hita-Hokosan Railway line. Seeing the twin peaks of Mt. Kawara come into view is incredible.
This road was the highlight of our entire weekend bike trip, definitely not one to skip if cycling near the Kitakyushu area.
Iizuka & The East Shoke Pass
The limestone mining between Kawara and Iizuka is hard to miss, with many mountains carved down for cement production. The exposed rock walls create an oddly beautiful and unique green and brown horizon.
After joining the Onga River and passing through Iizuka, the final climb of the day presents itself, a 300-m ascent up the east side of Shoke Pass (the west side of Shoke Pass is covered in this article). A large T-Rex statue signals the start of the climb, though he’s secured in place, so no worries there. This is a mellow but steady climb, eventually descending onto the busy but manageable Route 201, taking you past the famous Nanzoin Temple.
Back Into Town
Rachel and I made a quick stop at Sasaguri Station to check for any eki stamps, though unfortunately, none were to be found. From there, we headed back into town on a mix of enjoyable and efficient roads. As the rain began to pick up while passing through Tenjin, we made our way home, parked the bikes, and took some time to clean and grease the weather-worn chains to get them ready for the next ride.
This article is part of our growing collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
