This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
Text and photos by: Tim Muzik / Follow on Strava / Follow on Youtube
Today we’re heading off on a week-long bikepacking trip from Fukuoka down to the Osumi Peninsula at the southern tip of Kyushu. There are endless ways to make this north-to-south journey, but for this trip we chose a route through Aso, the Takachiho Gorge and Gokase River, Nobeoka, Aya, Nichinan, Kanoya, Osumi, and Sakurajima.
Like any bikepacking adventure, some days are beautiful and smooth, while others are more functional, focused on covering ground to reach the next destination. This multi-part series will document the journey and might serve as a useful guide for planning your own ride through Kyushu.
In this first installment, we’ll aim to take the most direct yet enjoyable route from Fukuoka to Minami Aso. While there are certainly longer, more scenic alternatives, this is a great option for anyone wanting to reach the cycling paradise of Aso in a single, manageable ride.
Along with the written report and GPX files below, check out the accompanying video that captures our full journey down what is, in our opinion, the best part of Japan.
Route Overview
Length: 143km
Climbing: 1826m
GPX File
Leaving Fukuoka
Heading south out of Fukuoka, cyclists must make a choice between busy roads or climbing; we always choose the latter. This usually sends us through Nakagawa and up and over the barely used rindo road, Route 601, which pops out in the farming area of Sonobe. From there, it’s easy enough to find small roads that cross Kyushu’s longest river, the Chikugo, as you roll into Kurume.
Crossing the Chikugo Plain & Into Kumamoto Prefecture
Continuing through the Chikugo Plain toward Yame it’s best to avoid the main roads and jump between smaller farming roads if you have the time. This is one of the largest flat areas in all of Kyushu, which provides a bit of respite from an otherwise demanding day. Tea farms, and a good amount of konbini options make this an enjoyable section of road as you cross the Yabe River and head into the first climb of consequence on the way to Aso.
As stated above, there are endless ways to cycle into Kumamoto Prefecture from Fukuoka, but one of the quickest and yet still quietest routes we have found is the barely used Prefectural Route 4. What begins as a double-lane road quickly turns into a single-lane, bumpy experience with plenty of cool farms and sights to take in along the way. After a very manageable 200 m of climbing, you cross into Kumamoto Prefecture. Crossing a prefectural line in Japan is always a cause for celebration, or at least a photo.
Yamaga & Kikuchi
Once over the Kumamoto boundary line, Route 4 winds through bamboo forests and into a series of beautiful small villages as you approach Yamaga. Yamaga itself is a cool onsen town known for its traditional lantern festival and quiet, old-style shopping streets. There are a few options to hop onto the Kikuchi River, which has a fairly well-developed system of cycling paths. Heading out of Yamaga and into Kikuchi, you get some fleeting glimpses of the peaks outside the Aso Caldera. Those with more time than us should opt to head to Aso via the Kikuchi Gorge, which is beautiful but slightly longer. With heavy rains forecast for the afternoon, we were looking more for efficiency than usual.
Leaving Kikuchi we opted to take some enjoyable roads which hug the outer western
slope of the Aso caldera. The Yubunetame Pond is a highlight of this section and offers the first real views of some of the volcanic peaks which are starting to get closer.
Getting into Aso
There are a few different passes that provide access to the Aso caldera. The main route used by vehicles, and the one with the least climbing, is the Tateno approach. However, cyclists coming from the west, or those with more time, should consider the far more scenic Kurumagaeri Pass (Route 23). It’s quieter, and objectively more beautiful. Since we already had 130 km and over 1,600 m of climbing in our legs, we chose the easier Tateno option.
Although the Tateno route has more vehicle traffic, it is still a beautiful ride, and those who prefer to stay away from cars can use the wide pedestrian path that runs along most of the route. There’s also a great local produce shop/udon restaurant along the way. As we were heading to Minami-Aso, this also had the most direct access via the Shin-Aso Bridge, which is a highlight all in its own right.
Minami-Aso is a particularly beautiful part of the Aso caldera. Aside from having some of the most beautiful rivers, and views of the peaks of the caldera wall, there are also plenty of great hotel options.
The Asobo no Sato Kugino Roadside Station is a popular spot for travellers, especially those lucky enough to have RVs, to settle in for the night. Even if you’re not staying over, it’s an interesting place to explore.
We continued on the next morning as our route took us down the island, but if it’s your first time in Aso, it’s absolutely worth staying a few days. The area offers unreal hiking and cycling opportunities within and on the caldera walls.
For more information on Aso and the incredible riding the area offers, check out this previous article where we circumnavigate the caldera…in much better weather.
This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
