This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
Text and photos by: Tim Muzik / Follow on Strava / Follow on Youtube
Today we’re heading out on the third and fourth stages of our north-to-south ride down Kyushu. The first route takes us from our hotel in Nobeoka, down the eastern coast to the beautiful mountain town of Aya. Day four sees us cutting further down the peninsula to the surfing town of Odotsu just south of Nichinan.
Route options are limited when heading south between Nobeoka and Miyazaki so we will take a look at some creative route planning to make the day enjoyable. The ride to Aya and further down south to Nichinan has some great climbs, peaceful roads, and well stocked roadside stations.
Along with the written report and GPX files below, check out the accompanying video that captures our full journey down what is, in our opinion, the best part of Japan.
Route Overviews
Nobeoka to Aya
Length: 121km
Climbing: 647m
GPX File
Aya to Nichinan
Length: 75km
Climbing: 900m
GPX File
Down the East Coast
When doing a multi day bike trip, some days are filled with perfect winding roads through the mountains, while some days are about transferring between those great areas on less than ideal roads. The ride down the east coast between Nobeoka and Miyazaki is very much one of those days, more of a transition ride than a destination in itself. National Route 10, which runs along the east coast, is a perfect example of why National Routes in Japan are usually best avoided. That said, days like this are a good excuse to get creative with route planning and link together smaller roads that generally head in the right direction.
The route file linked above does a fairly good job of this. It’s a functional day rather than one worth travelling specifically for, but it ends up being surprisingly enjoyable. Leaving Nobeoka, we stuck mostly to small back roads that were actually quite interesting, only needing to pop onto the National Route for a few short sections where there were no better alternatives.
To break things up, we took a short detour out to Cape Hyuga. It adds a couple of extra kilometres, but comes with some fun little climbs and nice ocean views, making it well worth the effort. It’s a great way to escape traffic and squeeze some climbing into an otherwise flat day.
Between Hyuga and Miyazaki there are several ways to continue avoiding Route 10. Prefectural Route 302 in particular offers a stress free option. It’s not especially exciting, but it’s quiet, safe, and efficient, and sometimes that’s exactly what you want when you’re trying to cover distance and set yourself up for better riding ahead.
The Aya to Miyazaki Cycling Path
Riding from Miyazaki toward Aya feels like a reward after the long coastal stretch already behind you. It’s here where you can jump on the Oyodo River and meet up with the Miyazaki–Aya cycling path, an off-road, low-traffic route that traces the river as you head toward the mountains. The surface is smooth and well-maintained, and there are lots of great spots to stop and look out over the rice fields. In most sections there are oddly two bike paths that run parallel to each other, choosing the one closest to the river is the less bumpy option.
As you get close to Aya, where the Aya-Kita river confluences with the Honjo, the views start to get really beautiful.
Exploring Aya
Aya is an amazing small town that’s worth exploring. Officially recognized as part of a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, it’s surrounded by forests, rivers, and quiet mountain roads. It’s known for its suspension bridge, historic castle and commitment to organic farming, we found the residents to be particularly welcoming as well. The hotel we stayed in for the night was one of our favourite places of the trip.
Heading South Toward the Obisugi Pass
The next day, the plan was to continue heading south to our next hotel in Odotsu via the Obisugi Pass along Miyazaki Prefectural Route 28. For those looking for a flatter option, National Route 220 along the coast is also a good choice. Having already taken that route recently, we headed back into the mountains on yet another rainy day.
Leaving Aya, the route hops between prefectural roads and a series of relatively small towns for the first 30 km. These roads are well used by commuters, but they felt safe and enjoyable the entire time, even in the rain.
Before reaching the mountain pass, the town of Tano is perfectly placed for stocking up on caffeine and calories. It’s also where we encountered an overwhelming number of large yellow trucks, something Rachel was particularly unhappy about.
The Obisugi Pass tops out at around 450 m of elevation, so the climb is steady but very manageable. Smooth, quiet roads and interesting forest views make it feel even easier. At the top of the pass there’s an observation point looking out toward the southeast coast.
The descent from here is a genuinely enjoyable experience, a mellow gradient on an empty road that follows the Kuronita River as it winds its way toward the ocean.
Popping out of the mountains into the small town of Kitago, there’s a michi-no-eki that makes for a perfect stop. It even has a small pizza shop inside. Recently renovated, this roadside station is worth timing your ride so you arrive a little hungry.
Nichinan & Odotsu
A few kilometres down the road, the route rolls through Nichinan, a coastal city best known for Udo Shrine, dramatically built into the cliffs south of town, and for Nichinan Coast National Park. Even just passing through, the river views and palm-lined sections give it a relaxed, almost subtropical feel.
A short climb out of Nichinan and a handy bike path that avoids a tunnel brings you to some impressive coastal lookouts, with views over the ocean and a cluster of jagged offshore rocks known as the “Seven Rocks.”
In Odotsu, we’d booked a traditional Japanese house turned ultra-cool surf shack for the night. It came with amazing views of the Nichinan Line trains rolling through the backyard and a clear look at the popular surf break just offshore. Odotsu is well worth spending time exploring, with several tourist-friendly restaurants, and the Hosoda River wrapping around town to create a small peninsula and some excellent views .
This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
