This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
Text and photos by: Tim Muzik / Follow on Strava
Next, we’re heading out of Nagasaki and hugging the coast of Tachibana Bay and Shimabara Bay through Amakusa to the bustling town of Kumamoto. Splitting this ride over two days allows for a leisurely pace to enjoy views of the snowcapped Unzen volcano, which remains in sight for most of the route. With a scenic ferry crossing, a steamy onsen town, and a golden pirate anime statue along the way, this is a ride not to be skipped on a round-island trip.
Route Overviews
Route Highlights: Tachibana Bay Mt. Unzen, Obama, Kutchinotsu Ferry, Shimoshima Island Amakusa, Hondosetohodo Bridge, Shimabara Bay, Akasaki Coast, Temmonkyo Viewpoint & Bridge, Misuminoseto Straight, Jinbei Statue, Kumamoto
Length: Nagasaki to Amakusa 85km, Amakusa to Kumamoto 100km
Climbing: Nagasaki to Amakusa 834m, Amakusa to Kumamoto: 600m
GPX File Nagasaki to Amakusa, Amakusa to Kumamoto;
Toward Unzen & Tachibana Bay
Setting out from Nagasaki, the ride begins with an easy 200m climb through a series of safely navigable tunnels on the Himi Pass west of the city. After clearing the tunnels and descending Highway 34, the route breaks to the right onto the 251 over Yagamio Bridge as it crosses the Hachiro River. Once through Toishimachi, a series of rolling hills brings you to beautiful views overlooking Tachibana Bay and Mt. Unzen.
The Beautiful 201
After a 30km push up the busy but scenic 251, you’re rewarded with one of the nicest stretches of road we’ve encountered in Kyushu, the small and car-free 201, which hugs the coast to the west of Sara-ku Natural Park. This 7km stretch follows an old railway line, winding through small tunnels and quiet seaside towns before reconnecting with the 251 in the town of Obama. The area around Unzen is full of fantastic cycling roads, making it well worth staying a few days to explore properly if you have the time.
Obama Town & The Unzen Coast
While the 201 comes to an end far too soon, we were pleased to rejoin the 251 as it led us into the famous onsen town of Obama. Not only does this town share a name with the 44th president of the United States, but it’s also home to one of the hottest and most active hot springs in all of Japan. This was evident from the steam rising through city grates and billowing wildly from seafood restaurants, making use of the natural heat.
From here, the final 20km to the ferry crossing follows the coast along quiet, rolling roads, passing through interesting tunnels and the striking Futago rock formation. While we had initially planned to take on the 700m climb up into Unzen-Amakusa National Park, the cold rain convinced us to rethink our route and head directly to the ferry instead.
The Kuchinotsu Port Ferry
A ferry crossing on a bike trip always evokes a mix of excitement and concern. Excitement because ferries are just plain fun, and concern because rough weather can sometimes lead to cancellations. Fortunately, on this day, the 20-minute ride from Kuchinotsu to Oniike proved to be operational, smooth, and enjoyable. As with all ferries in Japan, bikes are happily waved aboard alongside car traffic and safely secured to the deck by the accommodating and curious staff. 
The Kuchinotsu Ferry Terminal itself is a worthy stop, featuring plenty of local information, and a free upstairs museum detailing the history of the area. A dolphin watching tour also departs from this location, which had me scanning the water for marine life throughout the crossing.
Amakusa
Once on Shimoshima Island, we rode the final 15km to our hotel in the small town of Amakusa. This seaside fishing town had more than enough to keep us entertained and offered a surprising number of great food options. Downtown, the 200-year-old Gion Bridge, made of sandstone, is designated as a National Important Cultural Property. The Ebisu statue in the harbor is a great spot to stop as well, especially if you’re hoping to wish for a bit more luck on your next fishing trip.
The Akasaki Coast
The next day begins with a short wait for the beautifully designed Hondō Seto Ōhashi Bridge to lower after raising to let a boat through. This bright red pedestrian bridge serves as a gateway to Kamishima and is a cornerstone of Amakusa’s morning commute for local students.
The next 20km involves a beautiful coastal cruise down the Akasaki Coast, with views of Mt. Unzen across Shimabara Bay. Cold weather overnight had brought snow to the higher elevations, making for stunning scenery throughout the day.
Before leaving Kamishima, one of the day’s best views came in the form of the perfectly lit Mt. Sengan. What this small 150m peak lacks in size, it makes up for in beauty, with its exposed rocky southern face and jagged rock formations.
Oyano Island & The Bridges of Amakusa
From here, the ride takes another scenic turn as you approach Oyano Island and begin hopping from island to island toward the Misumi Strait. The numbered bridges of Amakusa provide fantastic views of the bays and the scattered islands all around you. At the northern point of Oyano, a lookout over Amagi and Tenmon Bridges marks the transition back to mainland Kyushu. It always somehow feels comforting to get back onto a larger land mass.
Once on Kyushu proper, the route twists along the coast, offering even more breathtaking views of Unzen and the surrounding sheer, rocky island peaks. Misumi West Port and Nagame Island are particularly beautiful, and it would be easy to spend a few days hiking and exploring the surrounding areas.
Nagabeta Seabed Road
Another 20 km of enjoyable coastal riding follows as the route to Kumamoto continues along National Route 57. The next stop is one not to be missed, the Nagabeta Seabed Road and the impressive golden Jinbe statue, both offering excellent photo opportunities.
For us, this was the first of the eleven One Piece character statues we encountered. Eiichiro Oda, the creator of the popular anime One Piece, is a native of Kumamoto, and these statues were installed as part of an effort to revitalize the area after the devastating 2016 earthquakes.
The Nagabeta Seabed Road is also a popular attraction, drawing tourists eager to capture the unique sight of a road that emerges from the water only at low tide.
Approaching Kumamoto
Approaching Kumamoto, it’s best to leave the main road behind and take advantage of the perfectly surfaced, car-free farm roads that crisscross the valley. Here, the outer caldera and rounded peaks of Mount Aso come into view, and the snow-capped 1,000+ meter peaks of the Kyushu Central Mountain Range create an unreal backdrop.
In just a few short kilometers, these peaceful farm roads give way to the lively and endlessly interesting streets of central Kumamoto.
This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
