This article is part of our growing collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
Text and photos by: Tim Muzik / Follow on Strava
Today, we’re setting off on a cold and rainy November morning for Raizan Shrine, one of the most famous spots for autumn foliage viewing. With neoprene shoe covers, Gore-Tex gloves, fleecy arm warmers, and Merino wool neck gaiters, we’re fully geared up, making the ride not just possible but highly enjoyable!
Route Overview
Route Highlights: Zuibaiji Dam, Itoshima fields, Raizan Shrine, Raizansennyoji Taihioin, The
Imazu Bay & Coast,
Length: 65 KM
Climbing: 774 M
Konbini Calories: 10 onigiri (1600 calories)
GPX File
Whenever we head up to Raizan Shrine, we like to include an additional out-and-back climb to the Zuibaiji Reservoir. The Raizan and Zuibaiji climbs run parallel and are both conveniently located just minutes from downtown Fukuoka. The ride to Raizan Shrine is accessible for riders of all levels on any bike with a wide range of gears. Adding the Zuibaiji climb, however, transforms it into a more demanding yet still manageable 65 km route with 774 m of elevation gain.
Heading into Itoshima
The ride starts off a bit late, as we’re delayed standing on our balcony, waiting for a cold rainstorm to pass. Once it mostly clears, we set out toward Itoshima under the West Kyushu Expressway. It’s an efficient, if utilitarian, option, though routes like the Itoshima Pass or Nagatare Point offer more scenic approaches. Fortunately, the rain clears up completely, leaving us with a crisp and beautiful day ahead.
Climbing to the Zuibaiji Dam
Before the main climb, we first head up a quiet 200-meter ascent to Zuibaiji Reservoir. This peaceful road offers views of the Itoshima coast stretching behind, and the green rice fields and forested slopes ahead.
On this particular day, we were joined by a bold badger who allowed us to cycle basically right beside him while he munched on something particularly tasty on the wet mountain roads.
The Zuibaiji Dam and reservoir are well worth the climb. Built in 1977, this 64-meter gravity dam is a crucial water source for the area, feeding the Zuibaiji River as it winds through Itoshima toward its terminus in Imazu Bay.
Past the reservoir, the road leads to a trailhead that offers access to nearby mountain caves and waterfalls. Even at this low elevation, around 300 meters above sea level, the trees are already well into their autumn color transitions, and brighter than the trees at the base of the climb.
After turning around and descending the climb, there is a perfectly placed 7-eleven before the main climb of the day, leading to the Raizan Shrine.
The Raizan Shrine
The road up to Raizan Shrine and the more famous Raizansennyoji Taihioin is well-known by cyclists, hikers, and autumn leaf chasers alike. While it tops out at just 450 meters, this climb is relatively demanding, with its punchy gradients and higher-than-usual traffic flow (especially in the fall) as people clamber up to the temples above. Those on less capable bikes can definitely choose to walk some of the steeper bits and still make it to the top.
After the first switchback, the route passes Raizansennyoji Taihioin. This is where most cars stop, as people hop out to pay the 100 yen entrance fee to explore the gardens and take in the stunning colors of the 400 year old maple tree that sits prominently out front. This nearly 2000 year old temple is also famous for its 500 small Buddhas and the large wooden Senju Kannon statue.
At the time of writing, the road is blocked to motorized traffic shortly after this temple, due to a late summer typhoon that wiped out a significant portion of the road. This is a blessing in disguise, as it makes the true highlight of the climb, Raizan Shrine, much more peaceful.
Approaching Raizan Shrine, you’re greeted by what I’d call (so far) my favorite tree in all of Fukuoka: a towering 1,000 year old, 32 meter Japanese cedar. While the 900 year old ginkgo tree standing beside the shrine itself gets most of the fanfare, the cedar is not to be overlooked. It’s absolutely worth taking a walk around the area to explore the many secrets, and other trees, that are on the grounds.
After this, cyclists can choose to turn around and descend or push onward for an extremely grueling, but popular, 350-meter extension through the rindo roads above. This section features some brutally steep gradients, well over 20%, making it a favorite among cyclists seeking a serious challenge.
Rachel and I opted to turn around, slipping back through road barriers, and autumn foliage seekers as we descended back to the Itoshima fields below.
Itoshima Fields
Rather than heading directly home, we chose a route that heads north, running parallel to the Raizan River through Hatae. There are plenty of empty farm roads here to explore, and there aren’t really any bad options. Those looking for some cheap local food could stop by Ito Sai Sai Farmers Market.
Whenever we are in this area, we make a point of going by Shito Shrine. The beautiful island of trees that surrounds it stands out against the otherwise flat and empty landscape of rice fields. Across from Shito Shrine, the Iwakagami Tree is worth bending your neck the other way, a single tree in an empty field always is.
The Imazu Bay & Coast
After jumping back onto the Zuibaiji River, the route heads toward the coast. The birding community will be all too familiar with the next attraction, The Imazu Polder. This tidal flat offers a fantastic opportunity for enthusiasts to catch a glimpse of a range of migratory birds. It’s common to see birders set up with telescopic lenses, waiting for the perfect, well-lit shot of black-faced spoonbills, which winter in the area. Although it’s much more common to see cormorants, egrets, and black kites, all on the lookout for crabs or fish to eat.
After looping around the tidal flat, we turned behind Hamasakiyama, where a short climb leads to a beautiful winding descent with views of the Fukuoka skyline ahead.
Hopping onto the Imajuku coastal bike path gives you a final break from the busy traffic before rejoining motorized travelers as you head around Nagatare Point and back into the city.
This article is part of our growing collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
