This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
Text and photos by: Tim Muzik / Follow on Strava
The next phase of this southern peninsula bike trip traverses the Osumi Peninsula, from Tarumizu to the Shibushi Bay coast, before turning north along the beautiful Route 220 coastal road to Miyazaki. Riding through the southernmost reaches of Kyushu guarantees plenty of quiet roads, rugged coastal views, and, in this case, an encounter with a large silver beetle!
Route Overview
Route Highlights: Kamoike Ferry, The Kimotsuki River, The Giant Beetle at Kuninomatsubara Roadside Station, Shibushi, The Shibushi Bay Coast, The Meitsu Port, Route 220 Coast, Miyazaki
Day 1
Kagoshima to Shibushi
Length: 61 km
Climbing: 300m
GPX File
Day 2
Shibushi to Miyazaki
Length: 96 km
Climbing: 832m
GPX File
A Change of Plans
As mentioned earlier in this series, whenever a ferry crossing is integral to a bike trip’s success, it brings both excitement and uncertainty. In this case, uncertainty prevailed, as we had noticed that our intended ferry crossing from Ibusuki to Minamiosumi had already been canceled several times that week due to high winds. Sure enough, upon arriving at the ferry terminal, the empty waiting area and the expression on the front desk attendant’s face told us all we needed to know.
After a brief moment of disappointment, we quickly made a new plan: taking a train to the nearest operational ferry crossing between the Satsuma and Osumi peninsulas. Fortunately, the fast and reliable Kagoshima-to-Tarumizu line was running, and it even featured a famous udon restaurant on board, not to mention stunning views of the recently snow-capped Sakurajima volcano. After enjoying both the train and ferry rides and quickly mapping out a fresh route to our hotel in Shibushi, we were off.
Tarumizu to Kanoya
After leaving the ferry port, a perfect back road winds south along the coast toward Kanoya, allowing riders to bypass the busy national route. Along the way, Sugawara Shrine makes for a perfect stop to take in final views of Kagoshima Bay before heading east, following the Kimotsuki River across the peninsula.
The Kimotsuki River
The Kimotsuki River is largely fed by streams and rainfall from the towering 1,200-meter Mt. Onogara, which dominates the skyline in this region. Lined with beautifully smooth, empty bike paths and lightly traveled roads, the river meanders toward Shibushi Bay. With vast, empty rice fields and the Kimotsuki Mountains as a backdrop, this route is a must-ride for cyclists exploring southern Kyushu.
Once reaching the eastern edge of the southern peninsula at the coast of Shibushi Bay, the road heads north through peaceful farming villages. A worthy stop pops up in the form of the fantastic Kuninomatsubara Osaki roadside station. Aside from selling a great collection of local products and soft-serve ice cream, the real highlight lies just outside the store: a pair of massive silver rhinoceros beetles.
Kushima & Nichinan
After spending the night in the small but lively town of Shibushi, we rolled out the next morning up the coast toward Kushima. This stretch of coastline is beautifully rugged, and as soon as you cross into Miyazaki Prefecture, the road starts getting marked with those welcoming blue cycling chevrons found all over Japan. The Kushima Roadside Station is one of the more modern ones we’ve visited and makes for a great place to grab some food before pressing further up the coast.
The small town of Nango proved to be a bustling place, with visitors eagerly awaiting a locally famous seafood restaurant to open. Just out of town, looking out toward the ocean, there are some beautiful views of the jagged, small rocky islands that dot the bay. The relative difficulty of accessing this area allows the natural beauty to remain without crowds, and if these beautiful rocky islands were closer to a major city, they would surely be a massive draw for tourists. The town of Nichinan is one of the last chances to grab some konbini goods before making the push up the sparsely supplied but perfect 220 coastal road.
Route 220
The 220 coastal road is one of those highways that have gained popularity with cyclists and motorcyclists for its ocean views, flowing turns, and rocky peaks lining the entire way. Riding this in the age of Google Maps makes it even better, with plenty of well-marked tourist attractions along the route. Kyushu has hundreds of kilometers of coastline like this, but Route 220 stands out for its lower population and unique geological features.
Miyazaki City
The empty coastline eventually gives way to slightly busier streets as the route enters Miyazaki City. While its population is around 400,000 people, the city lacks the heavy industry found in other Japanese metropolitan areas, making it feel much smaller and more relaxed to ride into. Just outside the city, the coastal tourist town of Aoshima draws plenty of visitors heading to the Devil’s Washboard rock formation.
Famous for beef, mangoes, and surfing, Miyazaki has a seriously lively shotengai and tons of restaurants to choose from, making it an ideal place to post up for a night during a cycling trip. (Of course, I dragged Rachel straight to the ultra-hip local bike shop, Sugarhands.)
