This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
Text and photos by: Tim Muzik / Follow on Strava / Follow on Youtube
Today we are heading to Yufuin in Oita Prefecture to ride a couple great loops in the area. Yufuin is a popular tourist destination for its hiking, hot springs, market, and Floral Village. It is also a great place for cyclists to base themselves for a couple days to access the dense mountains and river carved gorges that surround it. Either of the two loops explored below are well worth making the trek to Yufuin for, as they offer some of the best of what Oita cycling has to offer. For those heading out here on the train, we will also first take a look at the process for bringing bikes aboard.
Route Overviews
Route 1: Kokonoe Yume Suspension Bridge
Length: 76km
Climbing: 1450m
GPX File
Route 2: Ajimu Town & The Fukami River
Length: 59km
Climbing: 1237m
GPX File
Taking Bikes on Trains
Those without personal transportation might want to consider taking the train to access these loops. Bringing a bike on a train in Japan is super easy, but it is often a cause of anxiety for those attempting it for the first time. The most important thing is to purchase yourself a relatively inexpensive “Rinko Bag”. This is a soft bag that is thrown over your bike, which usually comes with a series of straps. Some straps are for attaching your wheels to the frame, the other is to carry the bike.
The process is easy:
Step 1: Find yourself a nice spot out of the way of other people as close to the door of the train station as possible.
Step 2: Put your bike into the hardest gear (the chain should be on the biggest front ring, and the smallest back ring). This will make taking your back wheel off super easy.
Step 3: Flip your bike upside down. Be careful of anything attached to handlebars like lights or a bike computer.
Step 4: Remove both wheels. This process varies depending on the axles of your bike. The front wheel is super easy, the back wheel you will need to clear the rear derailleur hanger and chain away from your cassette. This takes some getting used to but is super easy. I suggest practicing this at home a few times first, and watching some Youtube videos to help understand it. *Note that in many cases you can get away with keeping your back wheel on, we always just remove it as space can be tight.
Step 5: Using the straps provided, lay one wheel on the side of your bike, turn the handlebars so they go through one of the wheels. Repeat on the other side as well.
Step 6: Flip the bike upside down once again, and drape your Rinko Bag over your bike.
Step 7: Carry your bike through the train station.
Step 8: and slide it behind the last seat at the back of the car. It is best to line up at the back of the car you are sitting in. Reverse all steps upon arrival.
The more you practice, the better you get. It is 100% worth mastering this, as the sense of confidence in being able to travel with your bike is priceless. Rachel and I have done this process hundreds of times and not once have we encountered an issue. As long as you are respectful of other passengers and do your best to stay out of the way, nobody will even bat an eye. All Japanese trains allow bikes to be brought in this method. The only other tip is that when traveling on some Shinkansens, it can be easier to book non-reserved tickets, as some cars have space for large baggage and need to be booked first. Bikes are not considered large baggage, and others may have already reserved the space. It’s best to avoid this issue completely and use the regular-sized baggage areas on the non-reserved trains.
The Kokonoe Yume Suspension Bridge Loop
Now that we have successfully got off the train and built our bikes, we are off on the first loop.
Heading toward Kokonoe
This 76 km loop is mostly on completely empty roads. To access these roads, however, the journey starts with a blast up a National Route, which can get busy at times. The shoulder is relatively large and the road surface is perfect, which makes this a very doable and quick part of the ride. National Route 210 follows the Kyudai Main Line as it traces the Nogami River. While a slightly busy road, this is still a super enjoyable section with plenty of flowing rivers and scenic lookouts to take in. After the first 200 m climb, the road rips you quickly toward your turnoff just past Bungo Nakamura Station.
Up the Naruko River
Turning left onto Oita Prefectural Route 40 the road gets insanely beautiful and quiet. Any road called a Prefectural Route is usually great, and this one does not disappoint. The Naruko River is full of rushing waterfalls, tunnels and sights as it starts to climb south toward the Kuju Range.
After six easy kilometres, the road turns to a series of sharp, and steep hairpin bends which finish at a souvenir shop, lookout, and Tengu Waterfall.
A couple more minutes down the road and the route passes by the entrance to the Kuju Yume Otsuribashi Visitors Center & Suspension Bridge. While you need to pay to walk on the 173 meter tall bridge, this is also just a great place to stop for a snack, drink, and in our case be given some candies from the pocket of a friendly parking lot manager.
Oita Prefectural Route 621
While the suspension bridge seems like the highlight of this ride, it isn’t even close. Shortly after slinking around some super interesting farm roads with the Kuju Mountains towering above, the route turns to the real star of the show; Prefectural Route 621.
This is one of those roads that highlights why cycling in Kyushu is hard to beat. One of those roads that you won’t see a single car on while it slinks its way alongside rivers, waterfalls, and terraced rice fields. This was absolutely the highlight of the ride and a road that we will look for an excuse to come back to.
Rice Fields on the Oita River
After an enjoyable long flowy descent down the 621, you will momentarily hop on to a busy National Route before turning back onto what seems to be an unnamed road with zero cars, and tons of slightly grindy rolling hills which border the Oita River.
Heading back into Yufuin things get super beautiful again as the twin peaks of Yafu-Dake come into view. In our case this is where the sun finally came out also.
Ajimu Town & The Fukami River
The next day we decided to take on another great loop in the area that went out to Ajimu Town and back to Yufuin on either side of the Fukami River. This is another great loop to consider if you find yourself with a bike, and some energy in the heart of what we consider to be one of the best parts of Kyushu & Japan.
This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
