An architectural gem by Kengo Kuma—once a private guesthouse, now a luxury island stay
Just two hours by car from Fukuoka, we found ourselves on Oshima, a quiet island off the coast of Saikai City in Nagasaki Prefecture. Surrounded on three sides by water—the open Goto Sea, the mirror-like calm of Omura Bay, and the dramatic inlets of Sasebo Bay—this area is deeply shaped by the sea. Though remote, it’s surprisingly accessible by train and high-speed ferry via Hakata Station.
Our destination was no ordinary hotel. Originally built as a private guesthouse to host international shipowners visiting the local shipyard, the facility was reimagined in 2013 by none other than Kengo Kuma, Japan’s best-known architect. Rebuilt with interiors by London-based GA Design International, it now welcomes general guests under the name Olive Bay Hotel.
Set along a secluded inlet, the hotel’s 32 rooms all face the water, with floor-to-ceiling glass offering uninterrupted bay views.
The interiors are refined and modern—sleek furniture, carefully selected art pieces, and serene bathrooms—all designed to draw your attention outward to the calm cove and the surrounding forest. A room you could easily spend an entire day in.
With no power lines, no rooftops in sight—just sky, sea, and forest—Olive Bay feels completely removed from everyday life. The property includes a pristine infinity pool, a well-equipped gym, and even a private hotel cruiser for scenic excursions.
Small in Scale, Big on Luxury
Dining here is as thoughtfully curated as the space itself. Guests can choose from refined French cuisine or Japanese courses, all built around fresh, seasonal, and local ingredients.
The seafood is exceptional—sourced from the nearby Nagasaki coast—and in season, spiny lobster makes an appearance. You’ll also find Nagasaki Wagyu, and Oshima’s famously sweet and flavorful tomatoes make their way into many dishes.
Beyond the flavors and presentation, what really made each meal stand out was the warm, unhurried hospitality. Every detail is taken care of, and you’re gently encouraged to savor the moment.
Mornings begin with a champagne breakfast, accompanied by your choice of fresh-pressed Oshima tomato juice or juice made from Saikai-grown oranges. The setting, the pace, the produce—it’s the kind of breakfast you’ll remember.
Olive Bay Hotel is a privately run boutique property, but it feels more like being invited to a private estate. We quickly forgot we were in rural Nagasaki. Everything—from the architecture and materials to the landscaping and scent of the air—conveys a quiet confidence and care.
For seasoned travelers, it’s a reminder that true luxury doesn’t need to shout. It’s in the restraint. It’s in the comfort. We recommend at least a two-night stay, with one full day spent entirely on the property if possible—especially midweek, when it’s at its most tranquil.
“I designed the hotel like a picture frame, surrounding the rich natural landscape of Olive Bay. The pleated façade, made of white stone, acts as a stone curtain—separating everyday life from the quiet world beyond.”
—Kengo Kuma
Source: Kengo Kuma & Associates website
Exclusive for Hotel Guests: Shipyard Tour
Oshima’s identity has shifted over the decades—from coal mining to shipbuilding—and today it’s home to Oshima Shipbuilding, a global leader in bulk carrier construction and environmental maritime technology. The shipyard produces over 40 vessels a year, and as a hotel guest, you’re invited to tour the facilities free of charge. It’s an uncommon chance to witness Japan’s industrial precision and global reach up close.
Getting Around by Bike
As usual, we brought our folding bikes along. Exploring by bicycle is one of the best ways to get a feel for a place—and here, it allowed us to ride at our own pace, discover quiet corners, and enjoy the scenery between destinations.
Olive Bay Hotel
1577-8 Oshima-cho, Saikai City, Nagasaki
https://www.olivebayhotel.co.jp/en/
Tel: 0959-34-5511
Fukuoka Now Reader Special!
Book the one-night, two-meals plan on weekdays and receive 20% OFF.
Reserve by phone or email and mention you’re a Fukuoka Now reader.
Offer valid for stays through the end of December 2025.
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Nearby Attractions
Nanatsugama Limestone Caves
This vast cave system—still not fully explored—was formed over 30 million years ago by seismic uplift from the seabed. Named Nanatsugama, or “Seven Pots,” the site includes over 35 caves, with “Shimizu-do” open to the public. Inside, the temperature remains a steady 15°C year-round. You’ll bend, climb, and weave your way through formations, encountering 18 distinct types of stalactites.
2541-1 Nakaura-Kitago, Saikai-cho, Saikai City, Nagasaki
https://saikaicity.jp/cave/
Sound Shower Museum
About 45 minutes by car from the hotel, this eccentric and heartwarming museum is tucked into the mountains inside a converted elementary school. It’s not easy to find, but every day, someone makes the pilgrimage.
Inside are 160,000 vinyl records, countless vintage audio devices, and an atmosphere that feels lifted straight from the golden age of Showa Japan.
One room features eight legendary Hi-Fi studio monitors from the US and UK (1970s–90s), which you can compare in a guided sound demo that’s part listening room, part nostalgia trip. Don’t miss the guided tour—it ties it all together beautifully.
342-80 Tsu-go, Yukinoura, Oseto-cho, Saikai City, Nagasaki
https://onyoku.org/
Hario Transmission Station
Near the Saikai Bridge, three massive concrete towers rise unexpectedly from the landscape. Built in 1922 by the Imperial Japanese Navy, these 135–137 meter high towers were once part of a wireless transmission system. Positioned in an equilateral triangle 300 meters apart, they are now registered Important Cultural Properties of Japan. Interestingly, it’s widely believed that the signals for the attack on Pearl Harbor were sent from here. Fascinating.
Locals call them the Hario Wireless Towers. Monumental in size and significance, they are a powerful, physical reminder of Japan’s modern history—and well worth a visit.
382 Harionaka-machi, Sasebo City, Nagasaki
https://www.city.sasebo.lg.jp/kyouiku/bunzai/kengaku.html
