Text and photos by: Tim Muzik
Welcome to the third post in our cycling series! Today, we’re taking the bikes on a train journey to the iconic hot spring town of Beppu. While most visitors come to unwind in the famous onsen and tour the bubbling “Hells,” Rachel and I are here for a different kind of adventure—a challenging 75 km loop around Mt. Yufu through rugged Oita terrain, featuring 1,800 m of climbing. If you’re up for stunning lookouts, volcanic peaks, and rice terraces, skip the hot springs and spend the day climbing with us!
We’d love to hear your feedback, suggestions, or requests for future rides—feel free to email us at cycling@fukuoka-now.com
This article is part of our growing collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
Route Overview
Route Highlights: Beppu hot springs, Mt. Tsurumi, Mt. Yufu, Yufuin Floral Village, Kinrin Lake, Uchinari Rice Terrace, Torigoetoge Loop Bridge
Length: 75 km
Climbing: 1,800 m
Konbini Calories: 13 onigiri
GPX File: Download
Off to Beppu: More Than Just Hot Springs
Today, we are throwing the bikes on the train and heading to the famous hot spring town of Beppu. Most visitors are drawn here looking to unwind in the onsens and take in the sights of the bubbling Hell’s Tour. Rachel and I, however, are seeking discomfort and some Type 2 fun—the kind that hurts now but makes a good story later—which is readily available via the rugged mountainous terrain of Oita Prefecture. We will be looping around Mt. Yufu and taking some smooth back roads to Yufuin and back. This 75 km loop involves 1,800 m of climbing and doesn’t have a single meter of flat road. Stunning outlooks, grass-covered volcanic peaks, and views of green rice terraces make it well worth skipping the hot springs and spending the day suffering on climbs.
Rolling Through Rush Hour
The journey begins with a quick blast through Friday night rush-hour traffic to Hakata Station. Once there, the bikes get disassembled and put into rinko bags. Taking bikes on any Japanese train is super easy, no need to check the train number or buy an extra ticket. Just invest in a cheap rinko bag from any bike shop, and you’re good to go. Take off one or both wheels, tie them to the frame, throw the bag over, and that’s it. Once aboard the train, you can slip the bikes behind the last seat in any car. Rinko bags usually cost about ¥4,000 and will last a lifetime.
Train Travel with Bikes Made Easy
The train ride from Hakata to Beppu relies on the JR Limited Express Sonic. It takes around two hours and has some amazing views. The only kicker is that the train switches directions in Kitakyushu. Everyone aboard works together to switch the seat orientation, which means you’ll need to jump up and move your bikes if you don’t want some nice Japanese commuter ending up with a bike in their lap.
First Stop: Beppu Station’s Hot Spring Welcome
Beppu has more natural hot springs than any other town on Earth, and you’ll feel it right away stepping out at Beppu Station, where there’s a hot spring to dip your fingers in right by the main entrance. It’s also here that you’ll be introduced to a famous local legend, Auburaya Kumahachi. Mr. Kumahachi is known as the father of Beppu tourism, as he is largely responsible for building up the tourism industry and showing Japan and the world why they should come to Beppu. With arms waving above his head, the bronze statue welcomes you to town. Those who enjoy collecting mementos might also want to grab the Beppu Station stamp.
Fuel Up Before the Climb
After checking into your hotel, Beppu has a lot to offer with its retro shotengai, wealth of dining options, and great craft beer spot the Beppu Brewery. You might also want to head to Beppu Tower and enjoy the open-air, all-you-can-eat/drink BBQ restaurant on the roof! This is the option Rachel and I chose…need to get those calories in before a big day in the mountains ahead.
The Climb Begins: Beppu’s Balcony Road
Rested and motivated to start early by the threat of an afternoon rainstorm, Rachel and I headed out for the ride to Yufuin and back. The ride starts with a grinding climb up to what I would consider the Beppu balcony road. This road clings to the mountain range behind the city and offers stunning views of the steam-billowing chimneys, Kunisaki Peninsula, Takasiyama, and the coast below. Looking in the distance, you can also see the western fingers of Shikoku as they stretch toward Kyushu. The highlight of the view is the green slope of Ogiyama; this is the site of the annual Ogiyama Fire Festival, where the volcanic mountainside is set ablaze to promote spring flower growth. The sight of this mountainside covered in fire makes for some great postcards.
Epic Views and the Legendary Fire Festival Hillside
The balcony road ends and meets up with National Route 500 as it sweeps out of town past the military training ground of Jumonjibaru. Following this road as it turns west again leads to some amazing views of peaks near Usa in the distance. At the time Rachel and I did this ride, the road was lined with yellow signs warning of impending traffic closure due to the first stage of the Tour de Kyushu coming through. A great chance to push the pace and feel like a young Euro pro moving his way up the ranks! It’s worth a stop outside Crane Horse Riding Club to take in the views of the backside of Mt. Yufu, a peak that you will spend the rest of the day happily circling.
Descending Route 617 into Yufuin
Hopping onto Oita Prefectural Route 617 leads to a winding 350 m descent into Yufuin. This brief descent is a welcome change from the upward trajectory of the route thus far and is all the more enjoyable with the knowledge that the cafes and bakeries of Yufuin walking street await. After some tourist dodging and stopping to wait for some horse-drawn buggies, Rachel and I settled on a quaint but quality bakery serving goods that had been cooked in the steam of the local onsen.
Sagiridai: Kyushu’s Alpine Challenge
After a brief stop at Lake Kinrin, the route continues out of town up the sweeping bends of the 216 and brings you to the highlight of the ride, the edge of Aso Kuju National Park and the Sagiridai Overlook. This climb gives the feeling of a high alpine climb and offers panoramic views of the valley below. It’s stretches of road like this, that put cycling in Kyushu on par with the famous mountain ascents of France and Italy. There’s an argument to be made that Kyushu cycling trumps the famed European climbs, as they rarely end in warm Seven Eleven cookies and bowls of ramen!
As you finally ascend the 300 m to the southern edge of Mt. Yufu and past the throngs of hikers starting the ascent up to the peak at the trailhead, the road begins to descend heading back to Beppu. There is also a Beppu City road sign here, a great chance to blast ahead of Rachel and celebrate my victory!
Adding on the Uchinari Challenge
Continuing on the 11 back to Beppu would make for a great loop and would put you back in the city feeling energized and ready for another fun night out. Rachel and I, however, chose to take a right turn on the 620 to ensure we returned to the hotel completely exhausted. The small winding, rice-terraced lined roads of the Uchinari region are all the draw needed to add this extension to the ride. Those without cycling cleats may want to stop and walk in for a peek of the Yufugawa Canyon before turning back toward the city.
Home Stretch: Beppu Awaits
After a few short, beautiful, but exhausting climbs, the route makes its final plummet back into Beppu City. Meeting up with Prefectural Road 51, you will be treated to a feat of Japanese engineering in the form of the Torigoetoge Loop Bridge. To ease the steep grades of the mountain, the road does a full 360-degree loop before shooting you out slightly confused, but once again heading toward home.
Refuel with Local Ramen and Jigoku Chips
Before going back to the hotel, it’s always best to stop for a pre-nap meal. Rachel and I chose a great local ramen shop that highlights one of the famous foods of Oita Prefecture: the Bungo Lime. Here we were offered drinks and a variety of soy sauces to accompany our meal, which used the local citrus. I also made the mistake of getting a bag of Beppu Hell’s inspired “Jigoku Chips.” The gradual build of insane spice did little to ease the headache, which had been building from energy exertion and a growing calorie deficit. Maybe another stop at Beppu Brewery before going back to the hotel?
This article is part of our growing collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
