As a long-time Fukuoka resident, Thailand has always been one of my favorite travel destinations. With non-stop flights now offered by three airlines (Thai Air Asia, Thai Airways, Viet Jet Thailand), getting there couldn’t be easier. If I had to guess, I’ve vacationed there over a dozen times. Typically, I’d spend a few days in Bangkok before heading south for sea, sand, pad thai, and perhaps one too many banana pancakes. But this year, Emiko and I craved something different—a change, and maybe even a challenge. The North was calling!
Discovering a New Side of Thailand
The more I learned about Northern Thailand, the more it matched our evolving tastes: adventure, culture, and nature over crowded tourist hotspots. Then I discovered its reputation as a cyclist’s paradise—and I was sold! During the dry season (November to February), cyclists come for the smooth roads, rolling hills, and breathtaking scenery. Add friendly locals, an ever-expanding coffee and café scene, and stunning temples, and you have the ultimate destination for cycling enthusiasts.
Why Travel by Bike?
To clarify, neither Emiko nor I are hardcore cyclists—we just enjoy cycling as a way to explore. It’s a playful, exhilarating way to experience a place. You cover more ground than walking while staying fully immersed in your surroundings—feeling the breeze, catching the scents of the countryside, and hearing the rhythms of daily life. Plus, it’s great exercise, eco-friendly, and just challenging enough to make every ride rewarding.
Don’t worry if you’re not a fluorescent-lycra-wearing road warrior—we’re not. If you can ride a basic bike, this article is for you. For this journey, we rode whatever we could rent or borrow—nothing fancy. As long as you wear a helmet, follow road rules, and use proper lights and footwear, you’ll be ready to roll.
Cycling in Chiang Mai and Beyond
Our adventure began in Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand’s largest city and a gateway to the region. The vibrant Old City is packed with eclectic shops, bustling markets, and incredible cafes and restaurants. It’s the perfect place to get your bearings, rent bikes, and connect with other cyclists.
After Chiang Mai, we ventured east, spending several days exploring Nan, Phrae, and Lampang provinces by bicycle. But let’s save those stories for Part Two of this series. For now, let’s focus on Chiang Mai!
Getting Around with AnyWheel
Exploring Chiang Mai by bike might seem daunting, but it’s surprisingly safe. Drivers are used to two-wheeled traffic and are generally respectful, while the city’s compact layout makes cycling a breeze. We loved using the AnyWheel bike-sharing service—affordable, convenient, and ideal for short rides around the Old City. With rates starting at just 10 baht for 30 minutes, it’s a budget-friendly way to hop between temples, markets, and cafes. Website
Where to Rent Bikes
For longer rides, sturdier bikes are a must. We visited NK Bicycle Rental Shop, which offers a great selection of touring, city, folding, and electric bikes. The friendly, English-speaking owner-mechanic comes highly recommended. For high-end road bikes, Vanilla Residence is the go-to spot, while Triple Cats Cycle caters to bikepackers with a smaller selection of bikes and self-guided tour support. Each shop has its own unique offerings, so it’s worth exploring to find what suits your needs.
“Nu” owner and mechanic of Triple Cats Cycle – with one of the shop’s namesakes.
Guided City Cycling Tours
To ease into cycling in Chiang Mai, we joined a half-day guided city tour with Trailhead. The day began with coffee, a route overview, and bike fittings, followed by a quick intro from our guide, Lek. He was fantastic—knowledgeable, engaging, and full of local insights.
We navigated a maze of narrow lanes, stopping at hidden gems we’d never have found on our own. From a blacksmith’s workshop to tucked-away temples and bustling markets, every stop was a discovery. The highlight? The fresh fruit section of a local market, where Lek introduced us to exotic fruits and snacks we’d never tried before. This tour is a must, even if you’re not an avid cyclist.
Learning the backstories brought temples like this to life, making each visit unforgettable.
Emiko enjoys a refreshing peeled coconut, complete with its natural coconut water.
Exploring the city’s super narrow alleyways—just another reason to ride a bike!
Picking up some Khanom Pia, a yummy pastry from a beloved long-running shop.
Use hand signals, follow the rules of the road, and you’re good to go!
Countryside Cruising
After loving the city tour, we returned to Trailhead for a full-day countryside cycling adventure. With our bikes loaded onto a truck, we left the city behind for quieter roads. The cross bikes provided were super comfortable and perfect for the terrain.
The 28-kilometer route was mostly flat, winding through picturesque rice fields, charming villages, and peaceful wooded areas. Smooth roads, no traffic, and plenty of stops to take in the views made this ride a standout. We watched rice being dehusked, sipped fresh coconuts by the roadside, and even visited a remote waterfall before enjoying a delicious lunch. If you want an easy yet immersive countryside experience, this tour is highly recommended.
Bikes loaded and ready for a countryside adventure!
The ride began a Wat Pa Dara Phirom temple in Mae Rim District
While most roads were nicely paved, some charming dirt paths like this added to the adventure.
Riding alongside the rice paddies was an highlight.
Stopping to take in the views
At one point we had to carry our bikes over a footbridge – fun!
No buildings, no signs, no cars—just wide-open countryside.
At the end of the ride, we had a beautiful waterfall all to ourselves.
Our guide introduced us to ‘khao lam’—sticky rice with coconut milk, sugar, and black beans stuffed in bamboo. My new favorite Thai snack!
For lunch, pineapple chicken fried rice—meal and dessert all in one!
Jungle Trail Adventure
Feeling more confident, we took on a challenging 46-kilometer jungle trail with 700 meters of climbing and inclines as steep as 14%! Sound above our ability? Not with electric-assist mountain bikes from Let’s Ride. Lawrence, the British owner, and his team were amazing, guiding us through gear setup, techniques, and safety tips.
The trail was exhilarating—lush forests, winding single tracks, and breathtaking views of hills and reservoirs. Along the way, we explored a bat-filled cave, admired Buddha statues, and took a break at the “Waterfall of Stickiness” for a packed lunch. Thrilling from start to finish, this ride was unforgettable. Pro tip: book a spa massage afterward. Your muscles will thank you!
Hi-spec e-mountain bikes loaded and ready for the trails!
The ride started on paved roads but quickly turned into single and double tracks through the jungle.
And then things got bumpy…
The first of two cave visits.
Peeking out from the second cave—home to Buddhas and bats!
Our goal was the Stickiness Waterfalls—true to their name, the surface is sticky enough to climb with ease.
A well-earned lunch of roasted chicken, green papaya salad, and Phat Kaphrao.
A victory pose to celebrate completing the long ride!
Road Cycling and the Local Community
Chiang Mai’s active cycling community is welcoming and diverse. If you’re an experienced road cyclist, check out the 55 Riding Club. Their Saturday morning rides attract up to 100 participants for a 90-kilometer route. Riders gather at a Shell station with a café and restrooms before setting off. The pace is fast, but the camaraderie makes it worth joining. It’s also a fantastic way to meet locals and expats who share your passion for cycling.
Tum, 55 Riding Club leader (right) chatting with two visiting riders.
All smiles at the start of the ride!
Cyclist-Friendly Accommodation
Chiang Mai’s popularity as a cycling destination has led to some excellent options for riders. While we didn’t stay there, Vanilla Residence is a standout for cycling enthusiasts. With secure bike storage, a maintenance area, a bike washing station, and high-end road bike rentals, it’s a hub for visiting teams and serious cyclists. (Tip: Book early—it’s popular!)
Vanilla Residence—conveniently located just outside the Old City.
Guests make use of the dedicated bike washing station, complete with a full set of tools nearby.
For our trip, we stayed at Kantary Hills and Melia Chiang Mai, both offering unique benefits for travelers.
Kantary Hills Chiang Mai
Located near the lively Nimman area, Kantary Hills blends comfort and convenience. Despite its proximity to shops and restaurants, it’s tucked away on a quiet street, providing a peaceful retreat. Our spacious suite featured a full kitchen, laundry facilities, and a wrap-around balcony, making it ideal for longer stays.
The breakfast buffet was a highlight, offering a variety of dishes to fuel us for the day. While we didn’t use the pool or fitness center, both looked inviting and well-maintained. If you’re looking for a luxurious yet practical base in Chiang Mai, Kantary Hills is an excellent choice.
Our suite was spacious, bright, and fully equipped—truly a home away from home.
In the warmer season, we would have definitely enjoyed this excellent pool.
Melia Chiang Mai
For a more urban experience, we stayed at Melia Chiang Mai, a sleek 22-story hotel that combines modern elegance with Thai charm. Its central location near the Old City made it easy to explore, while the panoramic views from our room and the executive lounge were breathtaking—temples, mountains, and the Ping River all in one stunning vista.
The real gem was Mai The Sky Bar on the 22nd floor. With 360-degree views, it’s the perfect spot for drinks or dinner under the stars. After long days of cycling, we also enjoyed the hotel’s afternoon tea, blending international and local flavors.
For a totally different vibe from the city below, check out the stylish rooftop bar.
With breakfasts like this—Western, Thai, and fresh fruit—we ate so much we never needed lunch!
The upper-floor lounge offers awesome views!
Emiko, thrilled with the hotel’s special afternoon tea service.
The hotel also features a spacious main pool, a kids’ pool, and a 24-hour fitness center, making it a versatile choice for travelers.
Beyond Cycling: Unique Experiences near Chiang Mai
While cycling was the focus of our trip, Chiang Mai has so much more to offer.
Ontai Eco Village
A short drive from Chiang Mai, Ontai Creative Industry Village gave us a heartfelt glimpse into sustainable tourism.
We made herbal balms, enjoyed a farm-to-table dinner, and even had a relaxing foot massage—all hosted by local villagers. A short cycle to a Huai Lan Reservoir allowed us to soak in the peaceful rural setting. Unlike commercialized tours, this felt genuine and personal, like being welcomed into someone’s home.
Staff showcasing the locally sourced herbs for our DIY herbal compress balls.
Herbal foot massage? Yes, please!
Grandma’s Home Cooking School
I’ll admit, I didn’t expect much from a cooking class, but this one completely surprised me. After a market tour where our guide introduced us to essential Thai ingredients, we headed to their outdoor kitchen to make curry from scratch. Even for someone who doesn’t cook (like me), it was a fun, informative, and delicious experience. Grandma’s Home Cooking School
Before cooking, we got to see the ingredients in their natural state.
I made that curry—honestly! (With plenty of support and instruction, of course.)
Coffee Culture and Craft Chocolate
Northern Thailand is a coffee lover’s paradise. From roadside stalls to minimalist roasters, the café culture is vibrant and diverse. My favorite discovery? Orange coffee—a refreshing mix of espresso and orange juice that’s both energizing and delicious.
This tastes as good as it looks—and we spotted it on the menus of many cafes we visited.
Tokyo, San Francisco, Milan? Nope—this is Chiang Mai. Sophisticated.
We also visited Siamaya Chocolate, a bean-to-bar chocolatier known for unique flavors like Thai tea, Tom Yum, and Durian. The factory tour and chocolate-making workshop were fascinating, and the best part was supporting local cacao farmers practicing sustainability.
Neil, one of the three founding partners of this 2017 startup, gave us a factory tour and tasting experience.
Chocolate—like so many things—is even better with a little knowledge.
We poured chocolate into molds and added our favorite toppings—creating a one-of-a-kind bar.
Restaurants: A Few Standouts
Chiang Mai is a food lover’s paradise, and we never had trouble finding a great meal. Here are two spots we’d return to in a heartbeat:
RASIK Local Kitchen
Scoring a table at RASIK Local Kitchen was pure luck, and it turned out to be one of the most memorable meals of our trip. This cozy, chef-owned eatery is run by a talented chef who interacts with guests from an open kitchen, making the experience intimate and engaging. It’s no surprise this place has earned a well-deserved spot in the Michelin guide.
We let the staff guide our choices, indulging in a mix of original dishes and inventive twists on classic Thai recipes. Each plate felt like a masterpiece, paired perfectly with craft beers, wines, and other beverages. If you visit, I highly recommend trusting their recommendations—you won’t be disappointed. Learn more here.
A modest and unassuming exterior, no doubt.
The chef and staff in the open kitchen—full of energy and passion you can feel.
Our meal—simple but expertly prepared with seasonal ingredients. We’ll definitely be back!
Kiti Panit
Another standout was Kiti Panit, a Northern Thai restaurant housed in a beautifully restored teak mansion dating back to 1888. Once a general store, the building has been thoughtfully renovated to showcase its original woodwork and furniture, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere.
Make sure to explore the charming courtyard and the upstairs rooms, where you’ll find a secret cocktail bar with no signage. The minimalist setting and expertly crafted cocktails make it a hidden gem you won’t want to miss.
The food? Simply incredible. We savored Northern delights like the “Sai Ua” pork sausage ball, “Miang Kam” (a traditional Thai snack), “Mu Naem Yang” grilled fermented pork, and “Hang Le Mu” a rich Northern pork curry. Every dish was expertly prepared and packed with flavor. It was easily one of our favorite meals of the trip. Check them out here.
Even before stepping inside, our expectations were high.
An unbeatable opportunity to try a variety of Northern Thai dishes—and every bite was delicious.
Brimming with atmosphere too.
Night Markets and Relaxation
Chiang Mai’s Saturday Night Market is a sensory feast. With handicrafts, street food, live music, and bustling crowds, it’s an experience not to miss. Just be prepared for slow-moving foot traffic if you arrive late!
After a day of exploring, we treated ourselves to a massage at Oasis Spa Lanna. Tucked away in a peaceful garden, the spa felt like a hidden retreat. Their “King of Oasis” package was exactly what we needed to recharge for another day of adventure.
Practical Tips and Recommendations
• Best Time to Visit: Chiang Mai’s cool and dry season runs from November to February, with daytime highs around 28°C and nights as chilly as 10°C, making it an ideal time for outdoor activities. However, air quality can fluctuate in late winter and early spring due to seasonal agricultural burning. Travelers are advised to check air quality forecasts before planning their trip.
• Safety First: Always wear a helmet, and familiarize yourself with local traffic rules.
• Stay Hydrated: Bring plenty of water, especially during long rides.
• Connect Locally: Engage with cycling communities to find hidden gems and insider tips.
Our trip to Northern Thailand was everything we hoped for—adventurous, cultural, and endlessly fun. Whether you’re a seasoned cyclist or just looking for a unique way to explore, the region offers something for everyone. From scenic roads to warm hospitality, it’s a destination I can’t recommend enough.
But Wait, There’s More!
Our adventure didn’t end in Chiang Mai. We ventured deeper into the North, exploring Nan, Phrae, and Lampang provinces, where the scenery became even more breathtaking. Stay tuned for part two of this report!
