This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
Text and photos by: Tim Muzik / Follow on Strava / Follow on Youtube
Today we’re heading out on the second leg of our north-to-south ride across Kyushu. This route takes us from our hotel in Aso, up and out of the caldera to the famous Takachiho Gorge, then further east as we follow the Gokase River down to our hotel in Nobeoka.
This ride has everything that makes cycling in Kyushu incredible: wild volcanic scenery, big climbs, waterfalls, deep gorges, and a whole series of unique bridges that cross the Gokase River as it winds toward the eastern coast.
It’s one of the best rides we’ve done in Kyushu. With empty roads, unreal views, and twisting river-side stretches, the route along the Gokase rivals the legendary winding roads of Shikoku.
Along with the written report and GPX files below, check out the accompanying video that captures our full journey down what is, in our opinion, the best part of Japan.
Route Overview
Length: 112km
Climbing: 2000m
GPX File
Up & Out of the Caldera
Starting the day inside the Aso caldera is always great. The roads are quiet, the morning light hits the crater walls, and even a short ride takes longer because there’s always something worth stopping for. When we rode this in mid-October, patches of sun breaking through the clouds made the whole ride out feel extra scenic.
To reach Takachiho, the route climbs out of the caldera via National Route 265 through Takamori. The caldera floor sits around 450 m and the pass tops out near 850 m, so it’s a steady 400 m climb. It’s a nice warm-up and sets you up for a great long descent down the National Routes ahead.
The National Routes
National Routes can be hit or miss in Japan, usually they are a miss. In this area, though, Route 265 ended up being great. It was completely empty, interesting, and after the initial climb it turned into a long, winding descent through small towns and farms. There are a few tunnels, but with low traffic they’re pretty stress-free. If you prefer something quieter, smaller local roads do exist (route 151), but with an early start and rain in the forecast, we decided to stick to these main routes.
The second National Route of the day, Route 218, is a bit busier and has one tunnel, the Tsubana Pass, that isn’t the most enjoyable. There is a small sidewalk which should be used, but it’s pretty tight and slippery. The views, however, get better as you cross into Miyazaki Prefecture, with big mountain walls and deep valleys opening up.
Takachiho Gorge
Takachiho Gorge is one of Kyushu’s most famous natural sights and is worth a stop even without a bike. The gorge was formed by ancient lava flows from Aso, later carved by the Gokase River, leaving behind sheer cliffs and the well-known Manai Falls. The descent into the gorge is a fun series of switchbacks, and the bridge viewpoint is a great spot to stop for cyclists wearing cleats who can’t stray too far from the bike. It’s a natural midpoint of the day and a good place to reset before heading toward the quieter roads along the Gokase River.
The Gokase River
Leaving the gorge, the route immediately gets really good, and there is no reason to take the busy National Route 218 which vehicle traffic will use. Route 205 runs above the river and through a series of short, punchy but manageable climbs. The views over rice terraces and the surrounding mountains make this one of the best stretches of road of the day. This part of Miyazaki is one of the most densely mountainous areas in Kyushu, and it shows.
Eventually the road drops back down and across the Gokase River while joining the even more beautiful 237. The scenery here starts to feel similar to river routes in Shikoku, with tight valleys, clear water, and a surprising number of bridges overhead; steel trusses, narrow concrete, and older suspension styles appear around every corner.
As you roll through Hinokage, look for the old train-car hotel located along the former Takachiho Railway. The line was damaged by heavy rain years ago and was never fully restored, but parts of the old route remain as walking paths and small historical sites.
This whole section along the Gokase River is easily the highlight of the ride: quiet roads, great views, and lots of places to stop and enjoy the valley.
Nobeoka
After another endless stretch of river bends and bridges, the route begins to flatten as you roll toward Nobeoka. The city has a noticeably quiet feel; population decline has set in over the last decade, especially after the downsizing and eventual closure of one of its major companies.
Because of that, Nobeoka feels a bit sleepier than other towns of similar size.
There is a small shotengai worth cruising through, and a few older shops give it a cool retro charm, but the real highlight of the area is just outside the center. The riverside park between the Ose and Gokase Rivers is one of the best spots we’ve found anywhere on the Miyazaki coast to watch the ocean. Big waves roll in and explode against the shore, especially on windy days and winter.
This coastline is known for its strong surf almost year-round, and even if you’re not a surfer, it’s a fun place to stop, sit for a few minutes, and watch the ocean. So, while sleepy, Nobeoka makes for a well placed and interesting stop on a bike trip.
This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu