This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
Text and photos by: Tim Muzik / Follow on Strava
Today, we are heading off on our folding bikes to explore the northern coast of Kyushu as it winds past Munakata, Kokura, and eventually across the Kanmon Strait onto the shores of Shimonoseki. This is a perfect weekend trip for riders of all levels, as the flat bike lanes and coastal tailwind make it more of a leisurely cruise than other routes in this series. Lovers of Japanese infrastructure and ingenuity will also find this ride particularly interesting, as it concludes with the impressive underwater Kanmon Pedestrian tunnel, which connects cyclists and walkers from Kyushu to Japan’s largest island, Honshu.
Route Overview
Route Highlights: Mishima Bay, Hanami Coast, Tsuyazaki Polder, Munakata Michi no Eki, Jinoshima, Onga Munakata Bike Path, Wakamatsu, Wakato Ferry & Bridge, Kokura, Mojiko, The Blue Wing Bridge, Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel, Akama Jingu, Karato Fish Market, Kaikyo Yume Tower, Shimonoseki
Length: 116km
Climbing: 440m
GPX File
Heading to the Hanami Coast
Leaving from downtown Fukuoka, this route heads toward Mishima Bay before hopping onto small, empty suburban streets as you slink toward the Hanami Coast. Unless you’re just looking to get the distance done quickly, avoiding National Route 495 is recommended. The outskirts of Koga, Chidori, and Fukuma are full of interesting roads and houses to check out as you make your way toward the beautiful and rugged Munakata Coast.
The Munakata Roadside Station
After a pleasant 40 km, the ride really starts to get enjoyable as you cross the Tsuri River and arrive at the perfectly placed Munakata Roadside Station. Aside from being packed with amazing food options, this also marks the beginning of the cycling path that follows the coast for the next 20 km.
Nearing Kanezaki Point and harbor, there are some spectacular views of Jinoshima and Oshima islands as the bike path is squeezed between Mt. Yugawa and the rocky shore. This stretch of road also played host to the final stage of the 2024 Tour de Kyushu, with riders flying through for laps of the Tsuremi Pass. Needless to say, Rachel and I didn’t break any local speed records on this recently contested section of road.
Onga Munakata Bike Path
The Onga Munakata bike path runs for 34 km and provides leisurely, safe, and beautiful cycling options for those looking to explore the coast. This route toward Shimonoseki follows it for about an hour and is one of the highlights of the day.
The route rolls through busy surf breaks, a cycling-themed rest stop, rocky cliffs with crashing waves, and, from what we could tell, plenty of sections that are frequently hike-a-bike in nature due to the huge sand drifts blocking the path. This isn’t much of a problem and actually becomes a bit of a fun challenge to see how far you can make it through before getting off your bike.
As the cycling path ends and you return to some basically unused roads around Wakamatsu, there is a destination roadside station, Umitodaichi. Inside, there is a great udon restaurant, and outside there are, or at least were, some cute cats to hang out with.
The Wakato Ferry Crossing
No Japanese cycling adventure is complete without an interesting ferry crossing, and the Wakato Ferry absolutely does not disappoint. Like all short ferries in Japan, you simply roll up, interact briefly with someone who instructs you which side of the crossing to pay on, and board. The Wakato crossing travels about 400 m across the bay and takes about three minutes.
The Wakato Bridge, built in 1962, is an impressive bright red suspension bridge that services four-wheeled traffic crossing the same bay. The crossing costs 100 yen per person and an additional 50 yen for each bike. The short but fun experience is well worth the cost.
Kokura
Kokura, which has been detailed more thoroughly in previous articles in this series, is a perfect stopping point on this trip to get a hotel and spend the evening exploring. Bordered by the stunning Mt. Sarakura and Mt. Adachi, Kokura is a special place with its bustling shotengai and castle grounds. Rolling into town on the Murasaki River provides the best welcome, as suburbs turn into busy downtown shopping arcades, framed by interesting bridges and mountains.
Mojiko
Continuing down the coast toward Moji and Mojiko, the scenery is exceedingly interesting. As one of Japan’s oldest ports, the coastal skyline is a mix of Western-style buildings, new and old Japanese architecture, massive bridges, and peaky mountains. There are a number of worthy destinations in the area, including Mojiko Retro, the Blue Wing drawbridge, and the Bananaman statues, marking this as the main, and possibly first, port where Taiwanese bananas were imported into Japan.
Crossing to Honshu via the Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel
Leaving Mojiko, the route comes to what is surely one of the most interesting pedestrian crossings on Earth: the Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel. Built in 1958, with the underwater roadway above it, the tunnel crosses from Kyushu to Honshu via a 60 m deep, 780 m passage. At the time of construction, it was the longest underwater tunnel in the world. A well-placed torii gate with views of the Kanmon Bridge marks the location of the elevator that brings cyclists and walkers to the tunnel entrance.
While the tunnel is free for pedestrians, cyclists are required to dismount and pay 20 yen. (Rachel and I could not find a person or place to pay this fee, so we proceeded with a discount and plans to return to right our wrongs.) The tunnel is well marked with informative signs, and stamp collectors will love the idea of placing half a stamp on each side of the tunnel, requiring you to cross to get both distinct halves.
Emerging from the tunnel and now on Japan’s largest and most populous island, Honshu, there is a new world of sights and landscapes to take in. The first of these is the Dan-no-Ura Battlefield Memorial and Akama Jingu. Looking out from the bright red gate of Akama Jingu toward the Kanmon Strait, with massive ships passing by, is a unique sight worthy of taking the time to enjoy.
The Karato Market & Yume Tower
With the goal of reaching Shimonoseki Station, we continued up the coast through the famous Karato Fish Market. Aside from being an unreal place to sit and watch boats, the market is known for fugu (blowfish) and is a lively spot for lunch before heading home.
Being lovers of elevated viewpoints, Rachel and I made one final stop at Yume Tower to fully take in the Kanmon Strait and the mountains to the north in Yamaguchi Prefecture. This 153 m tower is slightly pricey at 600 yen, but we felt it was worth it as a way to cap off our journey before folding up our bikes and heading back to Fukuoka by train.
This article is part of our collection of cycling routes and reports for Fukuoka and Kyushu. Explore more rides on our index page—and get out and discover Kyushu
