This intertwining of natural bounty and culinary innovation is vividly showcased in the onsen town of Ureshino, where the historical and the gastronomical converge. A meal at a longstanding eatery, nestled by the tranquil Ureshino River and operated by a rice merchant from the dawn of the 20th century, offers an authentic taste of this tradition.
The Onsen Yudofu here, made exclusively from “Fukuyutaka” soybeans, comes accompanied by a homemade sesame sauce, marrying soy sauce, sesame, kombucha, and sugar in a delightful symphony of flavors. Patrons are presented with the choice of pairing this dish with either succulent white rice or a robust roll filled with soybean meat and vegetables, each seasoned to perfection with sesame oil.
The pride of this shop, still milling rice with traditional stone mills and wooden pestles, lies in its white rice. The perfectly cooked, sticky rice, bursting with the sweetness of the grains, is exceptional. Is it the special Saga-grown rice? The unique water of Ureshino? There might be various reasons, but the primary one is undoubtedly the milling method.
Here at “Suisya,” rice is milled slowly over five hours using the power of a waterwheel and stone mills, a method that does not generate the friction heat of machine milling, preserving the rice’s natural flavor. The milled rice is then aged in nutrient-rich rice bran for over 48 hours, enhancing its texture and aroma. This careful process leaves the rice with a glossy finish and a rich scent, embodying the meticulous attention to detail that defines Saga’s culinary tradition.
Spring heralds the introduction of “Sicilian Rice” to the menu, a creative vegan take on a beloved Saga dish.
Traditionally featuring fried meat atop a bed of rice with tomatoes, lettuce, and other vegetables, all drizzled with mayonnaise, this iteration embraces soybean meat. Complementing this are okara croquettes, a selection of seasonal vegetable tempura, Daigaku-imo (sweet potato treats), kombu dashi miso soup, and tofu donuts—each element a testament to Saga’s innovation in plant-based cuisine.
Ichiryu Chaya Suisya stands as a beacon of Saga’s rich agricultural and culinary heritage, inviting patrons to immerse themselves in a dining experience that transcends mere sustenance. Through its signature dishes like Onsen Yudofu and the newly introduced Sicilian Rice, it weaves a narrative of regional pride, natural abundance, and culinary evolution, inviting all to savor the essence of Saga’s gastronomic excellence.
Vegetarian Menu (tax included): Yudofu Set ¥2,500, SAGA Sicilian Set ¥2,290 (reservation required by the day before)
Rice milled at the Suisya can be purchased at the adjoining shop.
