The Japanese term for the office in which geisha are hired is kenban. These offices are located all over the country, but the recent decline in the number of geisha has resulted in fewer requests for their services. The first kenban in Hakata opened in 1889, and by the early 20th century there were five of them here. During this heyday there were over 2,000 registered geisha in Hakata, but now there are only 21, ranging in age from their teens to their 80s.
The work of a geisha involves more than just appearing at private parties. The year for Hakata geisha begins from at the New Year’s festival held from January 8 to 11 at the Tokaebisu Shinto Shrine in Higashi Park, Hakata Ward. All the geisha gather for the Kachimairi ceremony on the 9th. They are truly a lovely sight to behold as they walk in their black-crested formal attire, Hakata obi, and hair pins designed to look like ears of rice.
They also participate in the Hakata Dontaku Minato Festival in May. On the 3rd and 4th they perform on shamisen and taiko drums, and sing and dance on stages located throughout Hakata. Once the Dontaku is over, they start practicing for the Hakata Odori in December. This is performed every December at the Hakata-za as one of the public performances in the Citizens’ Hinoki Stage Month. Upholding the traditional arts of Hakata, these geisha offer a complete performance of the arts they have perfected through daily practice. These include traditional music and dance forms including nagauta, kiyomoto (ballad-dramas), and tokiwazu (narrative music). The geisha practice assiduously for this event, as it is the culmination of their year’s work.
Following in the footsteps of Kyoto’s Miyako Odori and Tokyo’s Azuma Odori, the Hakata Odori was begun with the intent of preserving and passing on Hakata culture to succeeding generations. This year marks its 18th annual performance. In addition to dances that can only be seen in Hakata, the highlight of the event is the grand finale featuring all the geisha performing together. I hope all the people of Fukuoka take this chance to enjoy all the traditional arts of Hakata geisha, which are not often presented to the public.
Hakata kenban’s website: www.media-line.or.jp/h_kenban
Originally published in Fukuoka Now magazine (fn120, Dec. 2008)
