Now Reports

Go to Goto

Searching for the Simple Life? Located 80km off the coast of Nagasaki city, Fukue-shima is a perfect place for a detox from the city. Abounding in natural beauty, its rolling hills and azure beaches are as-yet untapped by the commercial tourist industry and can be accessed by a 40 minute flight from Fukuoka.

TO SEE AND DO…
If you make it into Fukue on a Friday after work, you’ll find the largest town on the largest of the Goto Islands doesn’t offer much in terms of nightlife. This is perfect, however, since you’ll want to get an early start to your weekend! Catching a sunrise (or sunset) along the coastline is like watching the Japanese flag unfurl before your eyes. Takahama Beach in Miiraku and Osezaki Lighthouse in Tamanoura are great places to view the natural inspiration for the hinomaru. For rooms with a view, you can rent private cabins at San San Camping Villagein Tomie town or Gyougasaki Park. Both offer spacious and affordable accommodation as well as BBQ facilities.

Not just a recreational park, Gyougasaki is also historically significant as being the last point of departure on the expeditions to China made by Kukai, founder of Shingon Buddhism. Come here in late summer and you’ll catch the fields of colorful cosmos flowers at their peak.

Head along Highway route 162 and you’ll hit the lush green foothills of Okura. Here, you can feast on locally-grown brunch at Katashi, an organic-foods, crafts and alternative health co-op where 600 yen gets you a set meal that patrons eat together along a narrow table. Afterwards treat yourself to an in-house shiatsu massage by Yuko at Akounoki Chiryouin. For only 3,500 yen you get an hour and a half of unparalleled muscular bliss.

Across from Katashi you’ll find a sign for Otomari, a dragnet fishing spot for tourists. Here you can try your hand at the local pastime, but if fishing doesn’t tackle your fancy you can also go surfing,snorkeling, or scuba diving and catch a glimpse of Tomie’s pink sango and Fukue’s coral reef up close.

More landward inclined? Single speed bikes can be rented at Furusatokan Pavilion in downtown Fukue or at San San camping village in Tomie town and are great for perusing the ocean side bike path to Osezaki Lighthouse or the Miiraku area at a leisurely pace.

Culture vultures can check out one of the many Catholic churches scattered around the island. Dozaki Church, located North of downtown Fukue, is one of the oldest. Built in 1879, it now serves as a museum with exhibits on the kakure (hidden) Christians exiled under the Tokugawa Shogunate.

Next, work your way back into town to see Goto’s second most famous tourist destination, Mt. Onidake. At 315 meters tall,Onidake looms over Fukue city and is home to the Baramon kite flying festival every May. The views as well as the high winds from this old volcano’s caldera will blow you away.

Finally, reminisce over the day’s sights with a nightcap at Oruka.This eclectic restaurant is heavy on quirk and curry spice. If you get on the owner’s good side he will proudly immortalize you in Polaroid (along with most of the other diners he’s had since 1973)on one of the trinket-infested walls.

On day #2 pack your sunscreen and head to one of Japan’s most pristine beaches, Takahama. White sands and generous waves make this a popular spot for beach bums and surfers alike.Positioned above the surf, a monument to kannon, the goddess of mercy, serves as protector to weary seafarers. Her powers won’t exempt you from a sunburn though! Other notable surf and sun therapy spots are Koujushi, Mukata and Tontomari Beaches.

Make your last stop Abunze. Snuggled behind Mt. Onidake, and within 10 minutes of the airport, Abunze boasts a black lavaformed beach and quaint pottery shop next to the visitors’ center.Reward your sightseeing efforts with lunch at the Bike House,located on route 164 along the ocean in Shimosakiyama. Retro bike paraphernalia as well as antique photographs detailing some of the island‘s local history adorn the walls. Exhibit even a minute understanding of Japanese and owner Mr. Ideguchi will gladly tell you all about the Hetomato festival held here in January. A sight to behold, Hetomato consists of macho men and boys, smeared with soil and clad in nothing but loincloths, hoisting unsuspecting single women onto a 300 kg straw sandal. Can’t quite envision it? You’ll just have to come back in winter to see for yourself.

So what will a weekend romp in the inaka cost you? Rental cars range around 5,700 yen per day while an entire private beachfront chalet costs as little as 2,500 yen per night if shared amongst friends.Add to the bill a hyaku-en shop compass and you’re all set to get lost and find yourself amidst one of the many picturesque back roads and turquoise inlets the island has to offer.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND

•Air: ANA, Fukuoka – Goto Fukue (approx. 40 min.) One-way ticket: 18,300 yen (fares change seasonally.) Toll free: 0120-029-222

•Ferry direct from Fukuoka: Nomo Shosen, Hakata Futo Bayside Place – Goto Fukue Port (approx. 9.5 hrs.) One-way ticket: adult 4,710 yen 2092-291-0510

•Train from Fukuoka to Nagasaki: JR Kyushu, Hakata – Nagasaki (approx. 2 hrs.) One-way ticket: adult 4,710 yen. 2092-411-1616

•Ferry from Nagasaki to Goto: Kyushu Shosen, Nagasaki Port – Goto Fukue Port. Jetfoil (approx. 85 min.) / One-way ticket: adult 6,300 yen. Ferry (approx. 3.5 hrs) / One-way ticket (second class): 2,520 yen. 2095-822-9153

•Car Rental (Fukue): Nissan Rent a Car. 2-3-1 Higashihama-machi, Goto City 20959-72-5175

ACCOMODATION

•San San Camping Village
1333 Tsuchitori Tomie-cho, Goto City 20959-86-2920

•Gyougasaki Park Cabins
1218-1 Kishiku, Kishiku-cho, Goto City 20959-82-0402

RESTAURANTS

•Oruka (near Fukue Port)
16-1 Shinminato-machi, Goto City
20959-72-8311

•Katashi Shokudo
1-4-3 Miono Goto City 20959-72-7002

•Bike House
983-4 Shimosakiyama-cho, Goto City
20959-73-6588

ACTIVITIES

•Goto Diving Sensuikan
1614 Tamanoura Tamanoura-cho, Goto City
20959-87-2223 (Mike for English 090-5937-5406)

•Akounoki Chiryouin (massage by Yuko)
2462-1 Hirazou-cho, Goto City 20959-74-6588

•Dozaki Church
2019 Okuura-cho, Goto City 20959-73-0705

By Marika Galadza

Originally published in Fukuoka Now magazine (fn127, July, 2009)

Category
Others
Published: Jul 1, 2009 / Last Updated: Jun 13, 2017

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