Just a little east of central Fukuoka.
Leave the bustle of Tenjin and Hakata behind, board a boat, and Fukuoka’s East Coast awaits, where the sea and sky suddenly feel much closer.
The area stretching from Uminonakamichi to Shikanoshima feels remarkably different from central Fukuoka, even though it is still within the city limits. Cycle along the waterfront, stop at an island restaurant and temple, then spend the night at a hotel overlooking the sea. The next morning, ride on horseback through pine forests. This two-day seaside trip is a chance to experience just how closely Fukuoka is connected to the sea.
The Trip Starts the Moment You Board the Boat
The journey begins at Hakata Wharf. From Bayside Place Hakata, take the Uminaka Line to Uminonakamichi.
You can also reach Uminonakamichi by train or car, but the high-speed boat takes only about 20 minutes. As you leave the harbor and the city gradually recedes behind you, simply looking back at Fukuoka from the water becomes part of the journey.
From Uminonakamichi Pier, it is about a three-minute walk to THE LUIGANS Spa & Resort, your hotel for the night. Drop off your luggage, then switch to two wheels. The hotel rents electric-assist bicycles, making it easy to follow the coastal road all the way to Shikanoshima.
Cycling to Shikanoshima with the Sea on Both Sides
The road from Uminonakamichi to Shikanoshima is one of the highlights of the trip.
Pedal along with the scent of the sea in the air, crossing the narrow strip of land with water visible on both sides. From a car, the scenery can pass by in an instant. On a bicycle, you notice the color of the sea, the direction of the wind and even the atmosphere of the small communities along the way.
Connected by land to Uminonakamichi, Shikanoshima is also known as the place where the national treasure known as the Gold Seal of the King of Na was discovered. According to tradition, a local resident working in a field on the island in 1784 accidentally found the seal beneath a large stone. The tiny gold seal unearthed from the soil is a reminder that, long ago, this island was linked across the sea to the Asian continent.
Take a Break with Island Curry
For lunch, head to MEGANE CURRY, run by a bespectacled husband-and-wife team who moved to Shikanoshima. Set in a renovated old house close to the Shikanoshima ferry terminal, the restaurant serves spice-rich curries using island-grown rice and seasonal ingredients. It also reflects another side of today’s East Coast, where newcomers are settling on the island and creating businesses and culture while becoming part of the local community.
Vegan options are available, and depending on the day’s supply, there may also be fish curry made with locally landed seafood. If you spot it on the menu, it is well worth trying.
Stopping your bicycle and sitting down for lunch at an island restaurant may seem like a simple thing, but moments like this are an important part of the trip. Rather than rushing from one destination to the next, take some time to settle into the rhythm of everyday island life.
Make Your Own Prayer Beads at a 700-Year-Old Temple
In the afternoon, head to Shogonji Temple on higher ground on Shikanoshima. This Rinzai Zen temple of the Tofukuji school has a history of around 700 years, and its grounds offer views across Hakata Bay and the Genkai Sea.
Here, visitors can make their own Buddhist prayer beads, choosing individual beads and assembling them into a complete strand. Part of the experience is hearing what your choice of beads might say about how you are feeling that day or the message they may hold for you.
Some beads are made from timber salvaged from the temple’s main hall after it was damaged in the 2005 Fukuoka Prefecture Western Offshore Earthquake, and can be chosen as a symbol of gratitude for the temple’s recovery. Visitors are welcomed by Ms. Yamazaki, whose family has cared for Shogonji for generations. Working with your hands while listening to her stories makes for a relaxed experience in which conversation comes naturally.
Then it is back on the bicycle for an evening circuit of Shikanoshima. The island’s coastal route is about 10 km and takes roughly an hour by bicycle. Follow the shoreline and you will see the open sea stretching to the horizon on the Genkai Sea side, while the Hakata Bay side offers calmer waters with the Fukuoka skyline visible beyond.
Spend the Night by the Sea
The day’s cycling ends back at THE LUIGANS, where it is time to check in. Instead of returning to the city, you can simply end the day beside the sea.
For dinner, enjoy sushi at the hotel. After a day spent cycling around the island, a meal centered on locally sourced fish brings the experience of the coast all the way to the dinner table.
For those who want to get even closer to island life, another option is to head out onto the water for a fishing trip aboard Gulf, then enjoy dinner at Tabemono-dokoro Maruryo on Shikanoshima, comparing aged fish with freshly caught seafood.
The Next Morning, See Uminonakamichi from Horseback
After breakfast at the hotel the next morning, head to Uminonakamichi Seaside Park.
At Kokopelli Western Riding, visitors can explore the park’s natural surroundings on horseback. Ride through open areas beside Hakata Bay, pine forests and stretches of white sand backed by green pines on the Genkai Sea side, taking in some of Uminonakamichi’s most characteristic scenery from the saddle.
Staying overnight also means seeing the coast in a different light, with morning colors and sea conditions that can be quite different from the previous afternoon. Being able to experience these changing faces of the waterfront so close to central Fukuoka is one of the area’s distinctive attractions.
After checking out of the hotel at noon, you can return to Hakata on the free shuttle bus or cross Hakata Bay once again by boat from Uminonakamichi.
Just beyond Tenjin and Hakata lies another side of Fukuoka, where the sea, islands, food, faith, outdoor experiences and everyday life all connect. You can follow the full itinerary over two days, or simply choose a few places that interest you for a day trip. Either way, if you want to get to know Fukuoka’s coastline, head east. Start by crossing the water.
Uminaka Line | Yasuda Sangyo Kisen
- Route: Hakata Wharf to Uminonakamichi / Momochi to Uminonakamichi
- Travel time: Approx. 20 minutes
- One way: Adults ¥1,300 / Children ¥650
- Official website
THE LUIGANS Spa & Resort
- 18-25 Saitozaki, Higashi-ku, Fukuoka City
- Tel: 092-603-2525
- Check-in: From 15:00 / Check-out: By 12:00
- Bicycle rental: Electric-assist bicycle ¥1,000/hour (7:00 to 18:00)
- Official website
MEGANE CURRY
Shogonji Temple
- 813-1 Shikanoshima, Higashi-ku, Fukuoka City
- Tel: 092-603-6702
- Visiting hours: 9:00 to 17:00
- Advance inquiry required for experiences
- Official website
Kokopelli Western Riding
- Riding Stable, Hikari to Kaze no Hiroba, Uminonakamichi Seaside Park, 18-26 Saitozaki, Higashi-ku, Fukuoka City
- Tel: 090-3769-2022
- Horse-riding experiences: From ¥8,250, depending on the course. Reservation required by the previous day
- Official website