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Kyushu Castle Cruising

Grand fortresses overlooking the territory of past feudal lords, Japanese castles provide a way to look backwards in time to a medieval Japan. Built almost entirely from wood and stone, these immense structures served many functions, namely as strategic locations for military defense, centers of regional governance, and as homes for feudal lords and their families. Because these castles served multiple purposes, there is a subtle beauty that resonates in the convergence between the two extremes, such as the stark contrast between the delicately curved gables and the many defensive architectural details, or between the serene surrounding landscapes visible today and the images of blood-stained battles that they bring to mind.

The first castles in Japan were named yamashiro, or mountain-castles, and were built using material excavated from the mountains on which they stood. As Japan entered periods of civil unrest, these castles quickly increased in number and strength. Initially their sole purpose was military defence, and these castles shared little resemblance to the much more extravagant castles that followed in the senkoku jidai, or Warring States period. In the 15th century, Japan entered into a 150-year-long civil war, in which it became necessary for the daimyo, or feudal lords, to fortify their residences. This marked the beginning of what many people nowadays would consider to be the “typical style” of Japanese castles. While it was definitely important to have a strong military defense during the war, it was almost equally important to appear intimidating to neighboring clans. The best way to do this was to communicate wealth and power through a tall and elaborately designed keep tower. The castles of this time period were just as much works of art as they were military headquarters. With the invention of gunpowder, the Japanese castle evolved once again, equipped with a large stone base, advanced weaponry, concentric baileys, and was normally built upon a flat plain for easy administration.

Though many have been reconstructed, there are an extremely limited number of castles with their original keeps remaining in Japan today, and unfortunately none of them are in Kyushu. Perhaps the most well-known of these castles is Himeji Castle, located in Hyogo prefecture and nicknamed the White Heron Castle in reference to its white plaster walls. The relatively small number of castles standing today can be attributed both to attacks by neighboring clans since the Heian Period, and to lightning strikes, a result of their precarious position on hilltops. All remaining original castles were declared national treasures by the government in 1951. In the 1960s, Japan experienced a castle restoration boom, and many of the more famous castles were rebuilt using concrete, although there has been a movement in more recent times to use primarily wood in an attempt to maintain some authenticy. Today, there are a total of ten castles with keeps standing in Kyushu. The most famous of these ten is easily Kumamoto Castle, designed by the famous Kato Kiyomasa and the third largest castle in Japan, ranking ahead of even Himeji Castle and behind only Osaka and Nagoya castles.

Of the limited number of castles available to visit in Kyushu, we have selected what we believe to be four of the best, and once you see them for yourself, you’re sure to feel the same way. These castles belong to a very different Japan, one where samurai exist outside of movies, where clan loyalty is often stronger than nationalism, and where a person can live beneath the shadow of a castle their entire life without once having permission to enter. Having such unrestricted access to these fortresses today is a privilege, one not available to those around while the castles were still in use. For short-term visitors to Fukuoka, you don’t want to pass up this great opportunity to experience such an important piece of Japanese culture. Fukuoka residents, if you haven’t yet witnessed the splendor of oshiro, take a peek at a few of the descriptions on the following page. Perhaps it’s about time you had a look for yourself at these wonderful treasures sitting in your backyard!

TIMELINE

Ancient Times (~ 1160s)

Contrary to the belief that a castle consists of one main tower, the keep tower is actually but one part of a standard castle. Originally, castles were built to satisfy the need to protect one’s land and to display a symbol of political authority.

Middle Ages (1160s ~ 1568)

Like China and many European countries, many areas in Japan were quick to adopt a social system revolving around a centralized castle. During the Middle Ages, the number of castles built for samurai protection greatly increased. Also, the strategic positioning of castles allowed them to play a stronger role during this period.

Unification Period (1568 ~ 1867)

With the senkoku-jidai (Warring States period), the keep tower and giant stone wall, both key elements to the popular image of Japanese castles, made their appearance. During the Edo period, flatland castles became more prevalent, and practicality became less important than demonstrating political power through a giant, splendorous keep tower.

Recent Past (1867 ~ 1945)

During the Meiji period, many castles were dismantled by the Japanese government and imperial army. Also, natural disasters and remaining damage from the recent warring period contributed to the decreasing number of castles in Japan.

Present Day (1945~)

Castle reconstruction and restoration began in the Showa period with the intention of promoting the surrounding area. Nowadays, castles play an important role in preserving a city’s history by making important cultural property available for viewing. Also, their presence allows residents to escape from the stresses of city-life to do a bit of sightseeing.

FOUR CASTLES IN FOUR CORNERS OF KYUSHU
A mini-guide to a few of our favorites

Karatsu Castle – Saga Prefecture

Located in the northern part of Karatsu City, Karatsu Castle was built over a seven year period by the area’s first feudal lord, Hirotaka Terazawa, reaching completion in 1608. Pieces of the abandoned Nagoya Castle were recovered and used in the construction of the original Karatsu Castle. Today, the castle is standing proudly thanks to a restoration effort made back in 1966. Today, the castle’s nickname is “Maizuru-jo,” or “Castle of the Soaring Crane,” due to the visual effect created by the pine groves (wings) on either side of the castle keep (head). Nowadays, the castle acts as a museum, housing various types of feudal artifacts. Head up to the fifth floor, which has now been renovated into an observatory and offers a tremendous view of the surrounding area. Use any remaining free time to check out Maizuru Park, well known for its Cherry Blossoms in the spring and Wisteria in the summer.

Access
From Tenjin Bus Center, hop on the Karatsu bound express bus and take it to the Oteguchi stop. From there, transfer onto the circular bus-route (Showa-bus) heading for Karatsu Castle, taking it until your final destination. The first leg of your trip will take approximately 70 minutes, followed by a 5 minute ride to Karatsu Castle. Get off at Karatsu-jo-iriguchi bus stop. The castle is within eyesight. A regular ticket will cost ¥1,000 (¥1,800 round trip), or take advantage of the SUNQ Pass featured on the next page.
Castle Information
Open: 9:00~17:00
Entrance Fee: Adult: ¥400, Child: ¥200
Address: 8-1 Higashi-jonai, Karatsu-shi, Saga
TEL: 0955-72-5697

 

Obi Castle – Miyazaki Prefecture

Obi Castle is located in an old-style town in Miyazaki Prefecture, roughly an hour south of Miyazaki city. The castle was reportedly erected during the nambokucho jidai, or period of northern and southern dynasties, in an effort to extend the influence of the local samurai. Following the construction, the Obi Castle’s hegemony spent a period of time fighting with neighboring clans, but after the area experienced a large earthquake, a new castle was built in its place in 1693. More recently, the castle was restored in the late 1970s during the castle restoration boom that swept Japan. Along with the nine carefully arranged separate buildings, everything else within Obi castle, such as the gate, the temple, the stone walls, all carry an air of refinement. As visitors to Obi castle pass through the large front gate, it is easy to see the strong influence of the Edo Period in just about everything. Also, within the nine separate structures spread about the castle, the palace areas are wonderfully reproduced using Japanese cedar of 100 years or greater. In addition, the castle gates and stone walls are firmly intact, and are definitely worth viewing in full. The surrounding town of the Ito family household is flourishing, and is nicknamed “Kyushu’s little Kyoto.” With giant stone walls, warehouses, a merchant street, a street for samurai residences, and more, exploring this area by foot or rental bicycle is a great way to spend the day.

Access
From Tenjin Bus Center, catch the Miyazaki bound express bus and get off at the Miyako City stop. This first leg should take about 230 minutes. From there, transfer onto the Obi bound bus (Miyako-bus) for an approximately 110 minute ride. Get off at the Obi-joshita stop. You can see the castle from there. Purchase a regular ticket for ¥6,000 (¥10,000 round trip), a set of four for ¥19,200, or take advantage of the SUNQ Pass featured on the next page.
Castle Information
Open: 9:30~17:00
Entrance Fee: Adult: ¥600, High School or University Student: ¥450, Elementary or Middle School Students: ¥350
Address: 10-1-2 Obi, Nichinan City, Miyazaki
TEL: 0987-25-4533

Shimbara Castle – Nagasaki Prefecture

Shimabara City, located in the southeast region of Nagasaki Prefecture, is home to the wonderful Shimabara Castle, situated at the foot of Mount Unzen looking out over Ariake Sea. Feudal lord Shigemasa Matsukura spent seven years erecting this castle, which reached completion in 1624. In 1960, the castle underwent an extensive restoration process. Standing by the ruins of the past front gate to the imperial residence, there is a beautiful contrast between the bright blue sky and the five-story-high castle keep. Though the castle wall is nearing 380 years old, it still holds the same sense of strength and beauty that it did when it was first built. Also, in the castle’s moat bloom iris flowers in the spring and lotus flowers in the summer, sprinkling color throughout the bordering area of the castle. Look in whichever direction you please while on the castle grounds and you will always be faced with gorgeous scenery. The exterior aside, the castle’s interior holds fascinating exhibits of documents and artifacts chronicling early Christianity and the Hansei period. The Shimabara Peninsula was the site of a massive uprising of Christian peasants, albeit one where both sides suffered major losses. This event holds a great amount of historical significance for the region, and Shimabara Castle is a key location to visit for those with an interest in the subject. Moreover, there are numerous pieces of information and accounts regarding the infamous eruption of Mount Unzen, a volcano located in Nagasaki Prefecture.

Access
From Tenjin Bus Center, catch the Shimabara bound express bus and get off at Shimabara-ekimae (Shimabara train station). The trip will take approximately 175 minutes. From the station it is an eight-minute walk. Purchase a regular ticket for ¥2,900 (¥4,600 round trip), or a set of four tickets for ¥9,200. The SUNQ Pass as described on the next page is another option.
Castle Information
Open: 9:00~17:30
Entrance Fee: Adult: ¥520, Elementary, Middle, or High School Students: ¥260
Address: 1-1183-1 Jonai, Shimabara City, Nagasaki
TEL: 0957-62-4766

Kumamoto Castle  – Kumamoto Prefecture

In 1877, in what is now Kumamoto City, Kumamoto, Japan’s last desperate civil war was fought beside Kumamoto Castle. A group of former-samurai had risen in resistance to the newly empowered Meiji government, and of course was ultimately unsuccessful in defeating the government’s higher numbers and advanced weaponry. One can imagine the dark, ominous keep tower of Kumamoto Castle watching over the scene, while much of the castle itself is violently dismantled as a result of the onslaught. Two and a half centuries before this event, Kumamoto Castle had just reached completion at the hands of Kato Kiyomasa, a Japanese lord and commander known for his Spartan-like character. In 1960, much of the castle was restored, and the main keep tower was completely rebuilt. Today, the castle lies right in the heart of Kumamoto City, accompanied by giant camphor trees whose presence is often referred to as “The Symbol of Kumamoto.” This majestic castle is widely known as one of the “top three castles of Japan,” and is the only castle in Kyushu to hold such a distinction. In celebration of the castle’s 400th anniversary, the Lord’s Inner Palace has been renovated, reaching completion at the end of December, 2007. On the 20th of April there was a formal public revealing. It goes without saying, this castle is a must-visit for anyone interested in Kyushu culture.

Access
Board the Kumamoto bound express bus from Tenjin Bus Center. Get off at the Kumamoto Transportation Center. Altogether, the trip will take approximately 115 minutes. From the center it is a five-minute walk. Purchase a regular ticket for ¥2,000 (¥3,600 round trip), a set of four for ¥6,400. Or use the SUNQ Pass as described on the next page.
Castle Information
Open: 8:30~18:00 (Apr.~Oct.), 8:30~17:00 (Nov.~Mar.)
Entrance Fee: Adult: ¥500, Child: ¥200
Address: 1-1 Honmaru, Kumamoto City, Kumamoto
TEL: 096-352-5900
SUNQ Pass

Now that you’ve read about some of Kyushu’s most interesting castles, it’s time to see them for yourself. For your convenience, we have outlined the simplest ways to travel to these castles. Consider taking advantage of SUNQ Pass. For a set fee you can enjoy unlimited travel by bus all over Kyushu! Unlimited stops and transfers means it’s both economical and flexible. See details below.

Special thanks to Daniel O’Grady of “Kyushu Castles” for much of the information and some photos. Visit his website “Castles of Kyushu” at www.japanese-castle-explorer.com/

Originally published in Fukuoka Now magazine (fn113, May 2008)

 

Category
Others
Fukuoka City
Published: May 1, 2008 / Last Updated: Jun 13, 2017

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